The original poster's sequence is counter-productive, as he is washing,
then returning his print to a thiosulfate environment. As suggested by
titrisol, fix, then brief rinse (not complete wash), then toning, clearing
bath and final wash.
On Mon, Apr 17, 2023 at 12:26 PM titrisol <dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
IIRC acid is your main enemy.
You can flip steps 3 and 4 easily and using HCA after KRST can also cut
the final wash time
In the old old times, it was recommended to have a 2 bath fixer, with the
2nd being plain hypo.
Then a short wash (5 min) and KRST for as long as needed, then HCA and
final wash.
Check the IPI docs on that 1+40 KRST, you might need to increase the
quantity for archival quality as IPI showed that selenium needed to be
carried to almost completion
<https://www.largeformatphotography.info/toning-permanence.html>.
Toning and Permanence of Silver Gelatin Prints
<https://www.largeformatphotography.info/toning-permanence.html>
Brown toner/Viradon was way more archival.
On Sunday, April 16, 2023 at 02:48:50 PM EDT, Tim Daneliuk <
dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
My normal archival fixing disciplines is:
1. One minute fix in Ilford rapid fixer
2. Five minute running water wash
3. Five minute PermaWash treatment
4. 3-7 min in Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner 1:40
5. 60min running water wash in an Eco Washer
Years ago, I tried combining the PermaWash and Toner
steps by diluting the KRST further to get a minimum
of 5 minutes time. This cause intermittent staining.
But as I read the ingredients for these concoctions,
I realized that KRST has Sodium Thiosulphate in it.
So ... should I really be toning first then hypo
clearning?
=============================================================================================================
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
