Selenium toning works best when:
a. prints are archivally washed, you then tone and repeat the whole
wash cycle after toning (tedious at best).
b. take prints directly out of the fixer bath and put them into the
selenium toner still dripping fixer off the lower edge, a non-hardening
standard fixer works best for this, then finish your archival cycle, you
just saved hours.
I used to work in a studio darkroom as the darkroom monkey, printed a
lot of images on Kodak Ektalure and then toned them to completion in a
strong solution of KRST, lovely results every time.
Incomplete fixing, or especially washing, is your enemy anytime a print
goes into the toner in an intermediate state you get blotches or stains.
darkroommike
On 4/16/23 1:47 PM, Tim Daneliuk (tundra) wrote:
My normal archival fixing disciplines is:=============================================================================================================
1. One minute fix in Ilford rapid fixer
2. Five minute running water wash
3. Five minute PermaWash treatment
4. 3-7 min in Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner 1:40
5. 60min running water wash in an Eco Washer
Years ago, I tried combining the PermaWash and Toner
steps by diluting the KRST further to get a minimum
of 5 minutes time. This cause intermittent staining.
But as I read the ingredients for these concoctions,
I realized that KRST has Sodium Thiosulphate in it.
So ... should I really be toning first then hypo
clearning?
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