[modeleng] Re: Diamond Core Drills

  • From: "Andrew Houston" <andrew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 10:52:14 +0100

Al

Mayonnaise may have been the correct answer ?? After all, Milk is often
suggested for some metals. (Takes tongue out of cheek)

Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Allen Messer
Sent: 07 April 2008 03:11
To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [modeleng] Re: Diamond Core Drills

Thanks to everyone and their advice to Clif.  I am
constantly amazed at the co-operative spirit here on
this board and the absence of "flaming" one another. 
I asked a simple question on another board (that shall
remain nameless) about the proper cutting lubricant to
use on a specific job, and I was told to use
"Mayonaise".

Also, THANKS, Hubert, for the link to the new steam
locomotive.

Al
--- Jeff D <jeffdayman@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Hi Clif,
> 
> I have used dimond core drills on steel. If you keep
> the speed down they 
> work OK. If the speed gets too fast they start
> flailing around chewing up 
> everything in their path.
> 
> If you get no joy with them, you might try a tooling
> supplier and ask them 
> for a hard steel drill or a solid carbide drill. If
> you can get a left hand 
> helix one and turn it CCW (on stuck RH threaded
> fasteners) it will drill 
> just like a regular twist drill in medium to hard
> steel. The left hand helix 
> often helps release the stuck fasteners rather than
> driving them further in 
> as the drill bites.
> 
> I have to say too that I have had more trouble with
> stuck, broken, rust 
> plugged and corroded Torx fasteners on cars than any
> other type. Give me hex 
> head or hex socket head any day.
> 
> Good luck, Jeff Dayman
> 
> 
> >From: <clif.gwr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Reply-To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: [modeleng] Diamond Core Drills
> >Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 19:57:00 +0100
> >
> >Hi All,
> >I have a problem with a bolt on my car.
> >
> >It was a Torx type star headed 10mm bolt which is
> supposed to be tightened 
> >to a torque of 15 ft.lbs and is one of three
> holding the pulley onto the 
> >power steering pump,.
> >When I tried to undo it the torx tool simply ripped
> the stars off leaving a 
> >round  head. Just to make it worse it is typically
> in a awkward place to 
> >get too and part of the design of these beasts is
> that they flare out 
> >towards the base so forming their own washer. So I
> am now left with a cone 
> >shaped disaster zone.
> >Using a Dremel type slitting disc I formed a slot
> in the remaining head and 
> >so far using screw driver blades that fit into a
> 1/4" drive socket have 
> >sheared off four  blades. I even tried heating it
> up using a Micro 
> >blowlamp.
> >
> >From this it seems that it does not look as though
> it is ever going to 
> >shift and so have hatched another plan.
> >
> >I intend to use a Diamond Core drill, as used for
> drilling holes in very 
> >hard marble tiles etc. I have used these when
> installing bathrooms.
> >
> >What I hope to do is place the core drill over the
> pointed head of the bolt 
> >and grind my way down to the pully face hopefully
> turning the bolt head 
> >into a stud. Thus I hope at least to be able get
> the pulley off.
> >
> >I was hoping to put a thread on the resulting stud
> and then put a nut onto 
> >it but there will not be sufficient clearance to
> get a die down it. The 
> >pulley therefore is going to have just be held on
> by the remaining two 
> >bolts with the stud just taking some of the drive
> load.
> >
> >The Question is, has anybody any experiance with
> using Diamond Core Drills 
> >to cut steel?
> >
> >Regards
> >
> >Clif
> >MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST.
> >
> >To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email
> to,
> >modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word
> "unsubscribe" in the subject 
> >line.
> 
> 
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> 



 
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