[amayausers] Re: bobbin thread sliding to the left.

  • From: "Ed Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx>
  • To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 10:47:46 -0600

Re: [amayausers] Re: bobbin thread sliding to the left.Say Roland,
    You've got that right!  This really is a sophisticated science.  And
it's amazing how many of us make it through our first year of business
knowing only squat.  (I'm referring to myself, of course.)
Oh, and great analogy - the chain link fence.  Okay if I use it?  I love
analogies.

And as for the dandruff.  I heard Selson Blue works well.

Ed
  -----Original Message-----
  From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Roland R. Irish III
  Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 7:42 AM
  To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: [amayausers] Re: bobbin thread sliding to the left.


  Iris, what brand and what type of fabric is the shirt? I find the lighter
the shirt weight ( 7 oz. vs. 9 or 11 oz.), pique vs. jerzee, etc. makes a
big difference. The coarser the weave of the material means your embroidery
thread is going to be sewing a fine thread on a rough surface. Quick
analogy-visualize trying to sew a design on a playground metal mesh
fence...outlining the team name with a spool of kite thread on those 2" wide
openings-compared to using 1" thick rope...the thinner the thread and the
larger the opening-the harder it is to hold a 'straight' edge and you will
then see the thread pulling the bobbin up from behind. It's impossible to
match thread to material...adding more or different backing and also solvy
on top might solve your dilemma. Until we started playing around with
samples of the same design on the same shirt but using different backings we
really didn't understand why we couldn't just use 'one standard' backing. On
pique knits we automatically reach for the solvy-that really took care of
the 'jagged' edge (which I think you are calling dandruff?) And sometimes
using the 'wrong' needle- ball instead of sharp or viceversa works!
  It's a fine line to dance-balancing backing material and thickness, adding
solvy, pull comp, and material thickness along with bobbin tension. And then
you think you have it running right and the next shirt in the pile is made
at a different mill and the material isn't the same....wahhhhhhh....LOL
  Roland


    Hello All,

     Here are the results of my test regarding the bobbin thread one sided
and hence causing dandruff on the top.



     Test 1:

     Started off with a new bobbin case, bobbin spool(NEB plastic sided
white), woven shirt, 1 cutaway sewn on royal colored cloth. No difference.
I was able to see the dandruff consistently on the top. This was lettering
of 0.5² letter ht. 120% column width, monotype corsiva, 100% column width.
Tension of the bobbin was normal with the drop .



     Test 2:



     I then copied a part of the digitized design (sewn before without
problems).  Same results with the bobbin thread showing on the top. Tension
normal.



     Test 3:



     I ran the same digitized design with a tighter bobbin.  It caused a
thread break and I increased the MT from 3 to 4.  Sew without thread breaks
for the rest.  Not as much dandruff, but the bobbin thread was one sided.





     I really do not care how wide the bobbin shows on the bottom, but do
care when it shows on the top consistently even if it is a few places.  I
can look at it and say that something is not right.  I know for sure that my
machine needs a checkup to fix this problem.




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