[amayausers] Re: More needle questions

  • From: "Susan Davidson" <Sewfly@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 09:39:34 -0800

Where do most of you buy your needles from?  Looking for a good source.  =
At
the moment I am using MelcoMart.

Susan

Susan Davidson
Sewfly Embroidery
Vacaville, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of E. Orantes
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 9:12 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: More needle questions


John,
I agree with Frank's answer on the needles.  Ball point- cool sew.  =
Another
rule of thumb is: if it's a woven fabric, (not molded, spun, etc..) and =
if
you hold the fabric up to a bright light and can see little points of =
light
shining through, then go with a ball point.  If the fabric is woven so =
tight
that not even light gets through, then go with a sharp needle.  And =
don't
forget about Medium Ball Point Needles.  I guess they would fall =
somewhere
in-between of tightly and loosely woven fabrics.
        If you use a ball point on a tight fabric, then the needle has to
"bust" through the fabric with every stitch resulting in holes and =
thread
breaks. Same thing happens with a dull needle.  If you use a sharp =
needle on
a loosely woven fabric, then you run the risk of cutting those few, =
loosely
woven threads that are holding the fabric together resulting in a hole.
        Remember that needles are to embroidery like tires are to race cars.
They change the tires on a car a couple of times throughout the race (I
really don't watch Nascar).  Needles are really made of thin metal (not
kryptonite) and can easily be bent or mis-shaped.  You don't have to be
Superman to bend one with your fingers.  65/9's are thinner than 75/11's
which are thinner than 80/12's.  Needles also get hot when sewing in =
heavily
dense areas (although I have no idea to what temperature), because of
friction which at that time makes them softer.  Don't forget that the =
AMAYA
sews much faster than conventional machines and hence, puts more stress =
on
the needles.  The points WILL wear down with sewing time, needle eyes =
CAN
get scratched or burred, and the shafts DO bend from something like a =
missed
trim.
        Point being is to change your needles when you're supposed to.  This
is dependent on what kind of and how much sewing you do.  I've heard =
folks
say approximately every eight hours of sew time to change your needle.
Meaning, If you had an embroidery machine with only one needle and you =
ran
eight straight hours per day, then it would be wise to use a new needle
every day. That may sound a bit extreme and we don't always follow that
guideline at our shop but I also don't change my oil in my car exactly =
at
the 3000 mile mark either.
        Since every needle doesn't get the same amount of usage on a sixteen
needle machine, I inspect my needle points and eyes with a very bright =
light
(police flashlight) and a 10x magnification loop (like jewelers use) I
bought at a flea-market many years ago.  Remember that I can't see the =
BACK
of the needle this way.  I also look at all the needles from the side of =
the
needle case to see if any of the needles are obviously bent front to =
back.
However this doesn't tell me anything about left to right.  So really =
this
is just a quick check I can do in a few minutes to see if anything is =
really
out of whack but if in doubt, I change the needle.
        To keep them straight as to which are sharp and which are ball
point, the first four needles on our machine are always sharp and the =
rest
are usually ball point.  This is because the type of sewing we do is
primarily things like blankets, bibs, towels.  If we sew something like =
a
purse, then we use one of the sharp needles at left side of the needle =
case.
My operators find it's much easier to change out a spool of thread =
rather
than changing a needle from ball to sharp or vise-versa.
        Fortunately needles are cheap.
        That's my two cents on needles.
Hope it helps.
Ed

Ed & Maralien Orantes
E.M. Broidery
900 Terry Parkway, Ste. 200
Terrytown, La. 70131
504-EMBROID (504-362-7643)
     or
504-433-0099 office
504-433-0100 fax

-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of John Yaglenski
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 9:43 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: More needle quesions


Thanks Frank... What you said makes sense.  I had read sharp on some =
sites
though ballpoint seemed to be logical.

As an aside.. .is there any trick you use to getting lettering straight
across the back of a jacket?  I must have spent 20 minutes hooping and
unhooping, hooping & unhooping till it looked "eyballed" correct.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of frank davis
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 10:09 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: More needle quesions

John,
You might get two different answers.  Some people may use sharp needles.
When I sew nylon I use ball point so the nylon fibers don't get snagged =
or
cut.  Also you might want to use a Teflon coated needle, such as the =
Organ
cool sew to reduce heat build up with the nylon. Frank Force Ten =
Embroidery
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Yaglenski" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 9:23 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: More needle quesions


> Anyone?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx=20
> [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Yaglenski
> Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 5:10 PM
> To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [amayausers] More needle quesions
>
> Hey All:
>
> I have 3 hooded nylon jackets wih sweashirt inner lining in them. What =

> type of needle is best used on this type of item?
>
> Thanks in advance-
> John
>
> - - - - - - - -
> John Yaglenski
> Levelbest Embroidery
>
> I: www.levelbestembroidery.com
> P: 240.422.1321
> F: 781.998.6473
>
> This e-mail message and any attachments are confidential and may be=20
> privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, please notify=20
> Levelbest, immediately -- by replying to this message or by sending an =

> e-mail to john@xxxxxxxxxxxxx -- and destroy all copies of this message =

> and any attachments.  Thank you.
>
>
>
>
>
>









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