[amayausers] Re: More needle questions
- From: "E. Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 11:11:50 -0600
John,
I agree with Frank's answer on the needles. Ball point- cool sew. Another
rule of thumb is: if it's a woven fabric, (not molded, spun, etc..) and if
you hold the fabric up to a bright light and can see little points of light
shining through, then go with a ball point. If the fabric is woven so tight
that not even light gets through, then go with a sharp needle. And don't
forget about Medium Ball Point Needles. I guess they would fall somewhere
in-between of tightly and loosely woven fabrics.
If you use a ball point on a tight fabric, then the needle has to "bust"
through the fabric with every stitch resulting in holes and thread breaks.
Same thing happens with a dull needle. If you use a sharp needle on a
loosely woven fabric, then you run the risk of cutting those few, loosely
woven threads that are holding the fabric together resulting in a hole.
Remember that needles are to embroidery like tires are to race cars.
They
change the tires on a car a couple of times throughout the race (I really
don't watch Nascar). Needles are really made of thin metal (not kryptonite)
and can easily be bent or mis-shaped. You don't have to be Superman to bend
one with your fingers. 65/9's are thinner than 75/11's which are thinner
than 80/12's. Needles also get hot when sewing in heavily dense areas
(although I have no idea to what temperature), because of friction which at
that time makes them softer. Don't forget that the AMAYA sews much faster
than conventional machines and hence, puts more stress on the needles. The
points WILL wear down with sewing time, needle eyes CAN get scratched or
burred, and the shafts DO bend from something like a missed trim.
Point being is to change your needles when you're supposed to. This is
dependent on what kind of and how much sewing you do. I've heard folks say
approximately every eight hours of sew time to change your needle. Meaning,
If you had an embroidery machine with only one needle and you ran eight
straight hours per day, then it would be wise to use a new needle every day.
That may sound a bit extreme and we don't always follow that guideline at
our shop but I also don't change my oil in my car exactly at the 3000 mile
mark either.
Since every needle doesn't get the same amount of usage on a sixteen
needle
machine, I inspect my needle points and eyes with a very bright light
(police flashlight) and a 10x magnification loop (like jewelers use) I
bought at a flea-market many years ago. Remember that I can't see the BACK
of the needle this way. I also look at all the needles from the side of the
needle case to see if any of the needles are obviously bent front to back.
However this doesn't tell me anything about left to right. So really this
is just a quick check I can do in a few minutes to see if anything is really
out of whack but if in doubt, I change the needle.
To keep them straight as to which are sharp and which are ball point,
the
first four needles on our machine are always
sharp and the rest are usually ball point. This is because the type of
sewing we do is primarily things like blankets, bibs, towels. If we sew
something like a purse, then we use one of the sharp needles at left side of
the needle case. My operators find it's much easier to change out a spool
of thread rather than changing a needle from ball to sharp or vise-versa.
Fortunately needles are cheap.
That's my two cents on needles.
Hope it helps.
Ed
Ed & Maralien Orantes
E.M. Broidery
900 Terry Parkway, Ste. 200
Terrytown, La. 70131
504-EMBROID (504-362-7643)
or
504-433-0099 office
504-433-0100 fax
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of John Yaglenski
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 9:43 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: More needle quesions
Thanks Frank... What you said makes sense. I had read sharp on some sites
though ballpoint seemed to be logical.
As an aside.. .is there any trick you use to getting lettering straight
across the back of a jacket? I must have spent 20 minutes hooping and
unhooping, hooping & unhooping till it looked "eyballed" correct.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of frank davis
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 10:09 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: More needle quesions
John,
You might get two different answers. Some people may use sharp needles.
When I sew nylon I use ball point so the nylon fibers don't get snagged or
cut. Also you might want to use a Teflon coated needle, such as the Organ
cool sew to reduce heat build up with the nylon.
Frank
Force Ten Embroidery
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Yaglenski" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 9:23 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: More needle quesions
> Anyone?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Yaglenski
> Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 5:10 PM
> To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [amayausers] More needle quesions
>
> Hey All:
>
> I have 3 hooded nylon jackets wih sweashirt inner lining in them.
> What type of needle is best used on this type of item?
>
> Thanks in advance-
> John
>
> - - - - - - - -
> John Yaglenski
> Levelbest Embroidery
>
> I: www.levelbestembroidery.com
> P: 240.422.1321
> F: 781.998.6473
>
> This e-mail message and any attachments are confidential and may be
> privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify
> Levelbest, immediately -- by replying to this message or by sending an
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> and any attachments. Thank you.
>
>
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