[amayausers] Re: Changing Thread Spools with EASE
- From: "Body Cover" <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 10:03:02 -0800
That is a little different than we do it.
We do everything the same except,
when the new spool is on and the old thread has been pulled free
of it we take the two the two threads together and tie the overhand knot
ie: (loopedy loop knot) with both threads together then pull tight.
and pull it through the same way you did.
I found this picture
Thanks Ed.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Orantes
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 9:37 AM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Changing Thread Spools with EASE
Alright, lets' see now.
Changing Thread Spools with EASE
-By: Ed Orantes
First, Remove the original spool from the machine making sure to leave about
24 to 48 inches of thread ( a tail ) hanging out of the thread spool post.
Set the new spool of thread over the post and pull the old thread ( the tail
) up and out of the hole of the new thread spool so that it's not trapped under
the cone.
At this point you should have two lengths of thread to deal with. What's
left of the original thread ( the tail ) and the new thread coming off the new
cone.
Take the length of original thread and tie a "Large and Loose" simple
Loop-Dee-Loop knot in it (the official name escapes me at the moment). The
same kind of knot as in the first half of tying your shoe laces.
Now pass the new thread through that "Large and Loose", "circle shaped" knot
making sure to have AT LEAST six inches or more of thread through the circle of
old thread.
Go ahead and pull on both sides of the knot with a gentle tug to close up the
Loop-Dee-Loop knot. Polyester thread should not give you any troubles here but
if you are using Rayon thread, you must be careful because Rayon thread breaks
real easy and if you break the thread here, you'll have to start over again-
and with a shorter piece of thread to work with. So, in short, with Rayon
thread, give a gentle-gentle tug on the knot.
Lift the red thread feed pinch roller to free up any resistance and then
reach BEHIND the appropriate needle to grab the front tail of thread as it
enters the grabber velcro strips. Gently pull on the old thread and watch the
entire thread path as the old thread is removed and the new thread takes it's
place. You should feel no resistance what-so-ever as you pull the majority of
the thread through the machine until the knot reaches the eye of the needle.
When the knot reaches the eye of the needle, push or pull (which ever works
for you) the thread straight back in a direction to the back of the embroidery
machine. This dramatically reduces the amount of friction the knot has to
endure as it passes through the needle's eye.
Pull another 6 to 12 inches of thread out beyond the knot (or however much is
necessary to be ready to sew), and as you are gently pulling the thread taught,
lower the red thread feed pinch roller - taking advantage of the fact the
thread is in a nice straight vertical line across the rubber thread feed roller
as it needs to be when lowering the red pinch roller arm.
Now toggle your Grabber in. Take a pair of scissors and trim off the thread
you just pulled through just under the grabber assembly.
And there you go!
With practice, you can do this really quickly. Good dexterity is always a
plus.
Remember that the knot has to be on the original piece of thread and NOT on
the new piece of thread.
And that you should have a minimum of six inches of new thread pass the knot
in case there is any slippage when pulling due to not having tied the knot
tight enough.
This knot should pass through any size needle we use on industrial machines
including the 65/9 - DBxK5 needle.
I have attached a rough drawing for a visual stimulus.
Hope it works for you.
Ed Orantes
Amaya, EMT & EMC Tech
New Orleans, LA
504-258-6260
emservice@xxxxxxx
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Rod or Sharon
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 10:19 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Changing Thread Spools with EASE
WELL................we are waiting>>>>>>any size needle eh??
Rod & Sharon Springer
Embroidery Cottage
Rod & Sharon Springer
Melco Amaya Tech & Trainer
Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing
Boise, ID 83713
208-938-3038
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Orantes
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 9:22 AM
Subject: [amayausers] Changing Thread Spools with EASE
Debbie,
Here's a tid bit... Have some of your needles on your Amaya ball
point and some of them sharps. Know in your own mind which ones they are so
that when you need to sew with an appropriate needle, all you have to do is
change out the spool of thread which takes me about 8 seconds and is easy as
pie.
Just a suggestion.
Say, does everyone on the list know how to tie a knot when changing
out spools of thread so that the knot goes through any size needle??? I'll
tell you if you want to know.... Any takers???
Ed Orantes
504-258-6260
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of r.rinehartsr
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 8:46 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 10:07:26 -0600
You know I will...NEXT TIME...LOL!!! I under-charged this first
time, but after I realized HOW HARD they are to hoop up and then you must
change all your ball point needles over to sharps and then back again...WELL, I
learned the hard way!!!! MERRY CHRISTMAS, Ed!!
Debbie in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Orantes
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 11:33 AM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 10:07:26 -0600
Great to hear Debbie.
Now go out there and charge them an arm and a leg for all your
hard work. Heh- heh.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of r.rinehartsr
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 7:06 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 10:07:26
-0600
Just wanted to say that the Carharts are DONE!!!!! YEA!!!!
Since they were on the front chest, I was not able to take out a seam and was
forced to hoop through all layers. One of the jackets had a heavy polar type
fleece lining and the others had flannel like quilted linings. After placing
the top hoop over the inside hoop, I used a short screwdriver to tighten the
bolt a little then adjust the hoop a little ( to keep it from popping off) and
go through those same steps until it wouldn't tighten anymore. I had a 3oz
cutaway for backing, no topping and used an MT of 9, but after several false
breaks, dropped it to 7 and it stitched beautifully at a speed of 1150. The
design and logo were about 10,000 stitches and so only needed the 5.9mm round
hoop. AFter dropping the MT, they all stitched without one break. It was a
purchased design consisting of a barn, silo, tree, fense, tractor sun and cloud
outline, plus the placid font, which was in my older Viking software. The font
was GREAT. So, all's well that ends well!!!!!!! THANKS for all your
help. DEBBIE
----- Original Message -----
From: Ruth Williams
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:53 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 10:07:26
-0600
Thanks everyone, since I'm new to doing caps, that answers my
question and especially since they are black, the powered sugar shows more.
Ruth
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Orantes
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 7:57 AM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 10:07:26
-0600
Ruth,
Two things,... Either it's bobbin showing up on the top
side of the cap...-- tighten your bobbin and increase your material thickness
to accommodate.
or
It's the buckram that is showing itself in all of the
needle penetrations. Buckram is the hot glue like substance that is used in
the cap for face stability. We sometimes have to hit the cap with a felt lint
brush to "clean up" the face of the cap following the embroidery.
If your so called "dandruff" in only concentrated in one
area of the cap or design, then you will either need to change the settings in
the software or have the design edited for caps. Would have to see it to be
sure.
Is there another term we can use other than dandruff?
How about something like "powered sugar". Yeah, in the holiday spirit.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Ruth Williams
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 5:42 PM
To: Amayausers
Subject: [amayausers]
Hello Everyone,
I am doing caps and it looks like dandrift falling on my
caps. They are black caps. I've never known this to happen before or else I
just never saw it like it shows up on black. Anyone know about this?
Ruth lrembroidery@xxxxxxxxx
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