[amayausers] Re: Changing Thread Spools with EASE

  • From: "Ed Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx>
  • To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 11:37:30 -0600

Alright,  lets' see now.

 Changing Thread Spools with EASE
    -By: Ed Orantes

First, Remove the original spool from the machine making sure to leave about
24 to 48 inches of thread ( a tail ) hanging out of the thread spool post.
Set the new spool of thread over the post and pull the old thread ( the
tail ) up and out of the hole of the new thread spool so that it's not
trapped under the cone.

At this point you should have two lengths of thread to deal with.  What's
left of the original thread ( the tail ) and the new thread coming off the
new cone.

Take the length of original thread and tie a "Large and Loose" simple
Loop-Dee-Loop knot in it (the official name escapes me at the moment).  The
same kind of knot as in the first half of tying your shoe laces.

Now pass the new thread through that "Large and Loose", "circle shaped" knot
making sure to have AT LEAST six inches or more of thread through the circle
of old thread.

Go ahead and pull on both sides of the knot with a gentle tug to close up
the Loop-Dee-Loop knot.  Polyester thread should not give you any troubles
here but if you are using Rayon thread, you must be careful because Rayon
thread breaks real easy and if you break the thread here, you'll have to
start over again- and with a shorter piece of thread to work with.  So, in
short, with Rayon thread, give a gentle-gentle tug on the knot.

Lift the red thread feed pinch roller to free up any resistance and then
reach BEHIND the appropriate needle to grab the front tail of thread as it
enters the grabber velcro strips.  Gently pull on the old thread and watch
the entire thread path as the old thread is removed and the new thread takes
it's place.  You should feel no resistance what-so-ever as you pull the
majority of the thread through the machine until the knot reaches the eye of
the needle.

When the knot reaches the eye of the needle, push or pull (which ever works
for you) the thread straight back in a direction to the back of the
embroidery machine.  This dramatically reduces the amount of friction the
knot has to endure as it passes through the needle's eye.

Pull another 6 to 12 inches of thread out beyond the knot (or however much
is necessary to be ready to sew), and as you are gently pulling the thread
taught, lower the red thread feed pinch roller - taking advantage of the
fact the thread is in a nice straight vertical line across the rubber thread
feed roller as it needs to be when lowering the red pinch roller arm.

Now toggle your Grabber in.  Take a pair of scissors and trim off the thread
you just pulled through just under the grabber assembly.

And there you go!

With practice, you can do this really quickly.  Good dexterity is always a
plus.

Remember that the knot has to be on the original piece of thread and NOT on
the new piece of thread.
And that you should have a minimum of six inches of new thread pass the knot
in case there is any slippage when pulling due to not having tied the knot
tight enough.

This knot should pass through any size needle we use on industrial machines
including the 65/9 - DBxK5 needle.

I have attached a rough drawing for a visual stimulus.

Hope it works for you.

Ed Orantes
Amaya, EMT & EMC Tech
New Orleans, LA
504-258-6260
emservice@xxxxxxx




  -----Original Message-----
  From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Rod or Sharon
  Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 10:19 AM
  To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: [amayausers] Re: Changing Thread Spools with EASE


    WELL................we are waiting>>>>>>any size needle   eh??

    Rod & Sharon Springer

    Embroidery Cottage
    Rod & Sharon Springer
    Melco Amaya Tech & Trainer
    Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing

    Boise, ID  83713
    208-938-3038


    ----- Original Message -----
      From: Ed Orantes
      To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
      Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 9:22 AM
      Subject: [amayausers] Changing Thread Spools with EASE


      Debbie,
          Here's a tid bit...  Have some of your needles on your Amaya ball
point and some of them sharps.  Know in your own mind which ones they are so
that when you need to sew with an appropriate needle, all you have to do is
change out the spool of thread which takes me about 8 seconds and is easy as
pie.

          Just a suggestion.

          Say, does everyone on the list know how to tie a knot when
changing out spools of thread so that the knot goes through any size
needle???  I'll tell you if you want to know....  Any takers???

      Ed Orantes
      504-258-6260

        -----Original Message-----
        From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of r.rinehartsr
        Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 8:46 PM
        To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
        Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 10:07:26 -0600


        You know I will...NEXT TIME...LOL!!!  I under-charged this first
time, but after I realized HOW HARD they are to hoop up and then you must
change all your ball point needles over to sharps and then back
again...WELL, I learned the hard way!!!!     MERRY CHRISTMAS, Ed!!
        Debbie in Indiana
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: Ed Orantes
          To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
          Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 11:33 AM
          Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005
10:07:26 -0600


          Great to hear Debbie.
              Now go out there and charge them an arm and a leg for all your
hard work.  Heh- heh.

          Ed
            -----Original Message-----
            From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of r.rinehartsr
            Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 7:06 AM
            To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
            Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005
10:07:26 -0600


            Just wanted to say that the Carharts are DONE!!!!!  YEA!!!!
Since they were on the front chest, I was not able to take out a seam and
was forced to hoop through all layers.  One of the jackets had a heavy polar
type fleece lining and the others had flannel like quilted linings.  After
placing the top hoop over the inside hoop, I used a short screwdriver to
tighten the bolt a little then adjust the hoop a little ( to keep it from
popping off) and go through those same steps until it wouldn't tighten
anymore.  I had a 3oz cutaway for backing, no topping and used an MT of 9,
but after several false breaks, dropped it to 7 and it stitched beautifully
at a speed of 1150.  The design and logo were about 10,000 stitches and so
only needed the 5.9mm round hoop.  AFter dropping the MT, they all stitched
without one break.  It was a purchased design consisting of a barn, silo,
tree, fense, tractor sun and cloud outline, plus the placid font, which was
in my older Viking software.  The font was GREAT.  So, all's well that ends
well!!!!!!!        THANKS for all your help.    DEBBIE
              ----- Original Message -----
              From: Ruth Williams
              To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
              Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:53 PM
              Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005
10:07:26 -0600


              Thanks everyone, since I'm new to doing caps, that answers my
question and especially since they are black, the powered sugar shows more.
              Ruth
                ----- Original Message -----
                From: Ed Orantes
                To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
                Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 7:57 AM
                Subject: [amayausers] Re: (No Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005
10:07:26 -0600


                Ruth,
                    Two things,...  Either it's bobbin showing up on the top
side of the cap...--  tighten your bobbin and increase your material
thickness to accommodate.
                or
                    It's the buckram that is showing itself in all of the
needle penetrations.  Buckram is the hot glue like substance that is used in
the cap for face stability.  We sometimes have to hit the cap with a felt
lint brush to "clean up" the face of the cap following the embroidery.

                    If your so called "dandruff" in only concentrated in one
area of the cap or design, then you will either need to change the settings
in the software or have the design edited for caps.  Would have to see it to
be sure.
                    Is there another term we can use other than dandruff?
How about something like "powered sugar".  Yeah, in the holiday spirit.

                Ed
                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Ruth Williams
                  Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 5:42 PM
                  To: Amayausers
                  Subject: [amayausers]


                  Hello Everyone,
                  I am doing caps and it looks like dandrift falling on my
caps. They are black caps.  I've never known this to happen before or else I
just never saw it like it shows up on black.  Anyone know about this?
                  Ruth    lrembroidery@xxxxxxxxx




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