If I worked at at place like Dragonplate, I would need a really big lunch box - you know, for those scrap pieces ;-) Oh well, I'm using a sheet of 1/8" thick aluminum I bought at a scrap yard at $5.25 per pound, and left over G-10. Not that I'm cheap (insert joke here); just want to see if I can build something with this stuff. I'm not even sure if it will save weight. I will get the itching kit to see how it works. I would be interested in the vacuum set-up. Would you please post some photos? Richard Sent from my iPad On Nov 29, 2012, at 9:50 PM, "James Dougherty" <jafrado@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > I think I would break down and buy the whole sheet :-) > http://dragonplate.com/ecart/categories.asp?cID=65 > > > On Thu, Nov 29, 2012 at 8:49 PM, James Dougherty <jafrado@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Sorry, 1/32" thick G-10 Garolite > > http://dragonplate.com/ecart/product.asp?pID=3925&cID=93 > > Ouch, pricy, I know ... > > But If you could design the fins to fit those sheets... man oh man. > > > On Thu, Nov 29, 2012 at 8:46 PM, James Dougherty <jafrado@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Richard, > What laminates are you using? > I have a vacuum setup I am not using if you want to borrow it. > -james > > > On Thu, Nov 29, 2012 at 8:36 PM, James Dougherty <jafrado@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Actually, Richard, disregard, Cotronics is not what you need for this - I see > what you are doing. > http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=12214 > > It's an acid wash which chemically alters the surface as you've described. > > Very cool! Can you send us a full report? > > > On Thu, Nov 29, 2012 at 8:30 PM, James Dougherty <jafrado@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > That's exactly what it is, like an etching primer you use for metal. > > Get some Cotronics 4540 Machinable aluminum or 4525. I have some > I can give you one at the next launch if you need like pre-kitted 2 oz > batches ;-) > > > On Thu, Nov 29, 2012 at 6:09 PM, R Dierking <applerocketry@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > I'm thinking it's acid based to chemically etch the material and also a film > so the aluminum will not oxidize immediately when exposed again to the air. > Some people use wet sanding of the aluminum to prevent the oxidation layer > that prevents good bonding. For this technique, slow cure epoxy (30 minute) > is used and the aluminum surface is wet sanded with the epoxy. I know, it > sounds like a big mess, but it works! > > For my application, I'm looking to bond 1/8" thick aluminum between sheets of > 1/32" thick G-10 Garolite for fins. The attached photo shows the aluminum > test peice. > > Anyway, I'm probably going to try the West Systems Aluminum Etch on some test > pieces and see if I can pull the layers apart. > > Richard Dierking > Subject: [tccrockets] Re: Bonding Aluminum to Fiberglass > From: bandman444@xxxxxxxxx > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 17:31:47 -0800 > To: tccrockets@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > I don't, when we bonded the aluminum fins to our N5800 rocket we used LOCtite > Hysol 9430 and used a sanding while epoxy on approach. It held to Mach 3 so I > guess it was ok. > > The West Systems kit looks interesting. > > Bryce Chanes > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 29, 2012, at 4:51 PM, R Dierking <applerocketry@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > Does anyone have experience using the West Systems 860-8 aluminum etch kit > for bonding aluminum to fiberglass? > > Richard Dierking > > > > >