I'm trying to remember.....
Do you have the same Radio Shack radio installed in your bus as I have in my busses?
If so, that auxiliary radio kill switch is needed for isolating the radio from drawing current when you are parked.
The clock and station memories power feed can remain hot, drawing very minimal power drain, but the illumination, and especially the feed to the radio's class A power amplifier, need to be isolated.
Without the isolation switch, you need to feed the radio through the on-off switch of the bus, and that precludes camp night tunes.
I cleaned the ground strap from the transmission mount. I installed a new ground on the battery and clean all the connections plus where it attached to the frame.
Re-installed the battery (Showed 13.7 volts on the meter this morning)
Plus Changed an on/off switch I installed back when to turn the radio on and off.
Turned the key and heard the prettiest sound in the world . An engine turning over and it even started.
I'm up and running again. I might go out for a ride tonight now.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Perring" <perring@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 12:15 PM Subject: [tcb] Re: (HOU) Glen Rose 9/22-24,2006
The coil in the relay can fail, of course, and an ohm meter will show this, should it be the case4, but typically, coil failure that will be due to back EMF, induced by the DC voltage collapse across the inductance of the relay's coil. Placing a diode across the coil in reverse polarity will kill any back EMF spikes, minimizing premature failure of the relay's coil. The diode's voltage rating should be well above the normal 12 VDC actuation value.
An equally common failure mode for these relays is due to corrosion on the contacts. The voltage is so low as to not properly cause a spark on the make-break cycle of the contacts. A spark would serve to self clean the contacts (similar to the self cleansing action of polar relays on old teletype units)
And yes, the relays will fail. I have had two failures in the past ten years, I would suppose.
Each failure was of the "intermittent type" created by corroded contacts.
Pull from the socket - replace - crank on.
At 11:32 9/17/2006, you wrote:If the battery doesn't cure your ills , put a meter on the relay , they go bad also.
--- Trey Jung <treyjung@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I cleaned the ground from the transmission this > morning. I am going to > replace the ground on the battery as it just looks > crappy ...... I have > another battery I charged overnight and will replace > it when I get back from > O"reily.... > > Thanks for everyone's help. > > I am running a hot start realy that Bob installed 4 > years ago.... > > I'll post as soon as I get these things done today. > Trey > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Albarian" <pcalbar@xxxxxxxxxxx> > To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 7:09 AM > Subject: [tcb] Re: (HOU) Glen Rose 9/22-24,2006 > > > > Hi Trey, > > When I'm having the sorts of problems you are > mentioning in my splits, > > I've learned over the years that the best, first, > and simplest check is > > the battery. Typical car parts stores and battery > specialists have worthy > > load testers and test at no charge; they hope to > sell you a battery. They > > are good about showing you what the test shows, in > my experience, and are > > honest. The other suggestion I've heard > mentioning is a starter relay. > > The advantage to one of these (especially with a 6 > volt system) is that > > the power doesn't need to go so far (back to front > to back) to reach the > > starter. Since I believe you are running a Bay, I > would start with the > > battery check, and then guess your starter > solonoid is starting to go bad. > > That's my $0.02, > > Peter > > > > BlackBerry service provided by Nextel > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 04:04:38 > > To:tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Subject: [tcb] Re: (HOU) Glen Rose 9/22-24,2006 > > > > 10.5 is too low. Probably the battery is failing. > The ford solenoid > > trick may also resolve the issue but have > thebattery tested. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: "Trey Jung" <treyjung@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Sent: 9/16/06 7:25 PM > > Subject: [tcb] Re: (HOU) Glen Rose 9/22-24,2006 > > > > I'm all for leaving Friday sometime but I just > jumped in it and the bus > > would not start.... > > > > > > Last week it did the same thing when I jumped in > it to go the anti-meeting > > Friday night, I got under it and hit the solenoid > as well as the starter > > and even turned the engine by hand with a socket > and it finally turned > > over and started. > > > > I measure the volts at the battery just now and > they are 10.5 volts. ...a > > little low but: > > > > Synptons: > > > > Radio works, head lights work. Turn the key and > nothing (no sound) ...... > > I notice that when I turn the radio on and then I > then the head lights on, > > the radio stops....turn lights over the radio > comes on but still no sounds > > (like the engine trying to turn over) > > > > > > > > > >
Paul Smith www.23window.com/thezone Why do I have to push "1" for English T.C.B. H.B.B.