[rollei_list] Re: Searching for a repair manual or procedure
- From: John Wild <JWild@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: "rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 13:29:28 +0100
Georges,
I do not have the drawing for the metering hood, my manual must predate it.
Having looked at my hood, although not having disassembled it, I suggest:
1. Remove battery cover press plunger on bottom
2. Remove the little lever on the side which operates the spot meter diode
2 pin-hole fixing screw
3. Remove four corner screws on the base
4. I am guessing but I think that the whole internal assembly will now come
out. I assume that the shutter speed dial is connected by wires long enough
to pull out the diode assembly because I cannot see any obvious way of
removing it from the outside. The wires can probably now be disconnected or
unsoldered to allow total removal...
You mention the ocular shutter which does not work. I assume you actually
mean the operation of the little lever removed in step 2. This lever lowers
the spot metering diode which flips down to be central over the protective
glass. There is no ocular shutter. With the lever up, the metering is by the
4 diodes at the top of the hood, one in each corner, giving average
metering. With the lever down, the single diode is lowered to be central
over the image area, just above the viewfinder screen. I guess that the top
diodes are disconnected by this operation.
If the eyepiece female focusing screw thread is broken, I think, being
plastic, cyanoacrylate Œsuper glue¹ will not bond it properly, if at all -
depending on the plastic. Polystyrene (model) glue or plastic drain pipe
glue may work again depending on the type of plastic but I would use a 2
part epoxy such as Araldite.
You probably know this but the male threads should be coated with a very
light coat of mould release or other Œglue won¹t stick to¹ lubricant then
screwed in place just far enough to act as a location for the broken
pieces. The pieces are then glued in place so that he thread formation will
be aligned, continuous and free from excess adhesive. If space permits, I
would also glue a suitable piece of pipe/tube around the outside to
reinforce the damaged area and to prevent any pieces breaking away outwards
in the future.
I do not expect that the ocular rubber is available any more but possibly a
substitute may be found from an old telescope, a pair of binoculars or
similar.
Good luck
John
On 29/03/2011 21:57, "Georges Giralt" <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi !
> I own this nice SL66 with it's 80 mm Planar.
> I'm proud and delighted to have got this camera which made me dream for
> years. Alas, it was an unreachable dream until a few months ago. 8-)
> Now I've found the metering hood, but it has suffered a harsh encounter
> with concrete and some of the plastic female screw on the body are
> broken. Last but not least, the ocular shutter is defective too.
> As the meter itself is still working, I would like to open it, restore
> the broken threads with Araldite (two component epoxy glue, slow curing)
> or Cyanolyte glue and restore the shutter.
> Dismantling the "thing" is not obvious, and I wouldn't like to make
> more harm than it has suffered...
> So all the help I can get would be greatly appreciated.
> Many thanks in advance for your help and advice !
> P.S. Do you know a source for the rubber hood on the ocular ? Mine is
> quite worn out.
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