[rollei_list] Re: Searching for a repair manual or procedure

  • From: John Wild <JWild@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: "rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 15:44:46 +0100

Georges,

Very interesting. It becomes difficult when screws are hidden by the
covering. The only way is to start and go very slowly and see what moves and
what does not.

My only suggestion for the blade pins is to use a small drill bit, if it is
the correct diameter, cut to length.

It may mean buying a pack of 10; just cut a short piece off the shank.
Small drill bits are available in incremental sizes of 0.1mm or 0.05mm in
certain cases. If you measure the diameter of the pin and search on the
internet.

This is a set of small drills...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20-QUALITY-MICRO-TINY-SMALL-DRILL-BITS-HSS-0.3---1.6MM
-_W0QQitemZ130501615932QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=222982313873&rvr_id=22298231387
3&cguid=764ba19512b0a0aad1f30f03ff90b9f8#ht_2750wt_1141

They are hard enough. You can cut them with a Dremel or similar hand drill
with a cut-off disc. The piece gets hot when you cut it! I hold the short
length in a pin vice...

http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&sugexp=llsfp&xhr=t&q=pin+vice
&cp=5&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1066590706674014843&sa=X&ei=4taZTfyrFoqr8AO1pLQX&sqi
=2&ved=0CB8Q8wIwAQ#ps-sellers

The required off cut can then be held and the ends suitably rounded and
polished on a very fine grinding wheel in the Dremel or with a small oil
stone.

As far as securing the pin to the blade; I do not have any reliable
suggestions. Super glue may work. Low melting point solder would be more
permanent but the heat may cause the blade to distort. An epoxy adhesive
would probably leave a thick mound either side which would then have to be
carefully reduced in thickness till the blades were free to move freely...

Good luck

John


On 03/04/2011 18:32, "Georges Giralt" <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> Hello John,
> Saturday has been very busy with the normal chores. Today I spent my
> spare time developing the 5x4 film I took Friday. During the time it
> took the film to dry, I dismantled the meter hood. You'll see on the
> list the method which is very simple.
> I hope I've time tomorrow night to scan the manual for you.
> Thanks again for your help;
> I'll keep you posted.
> Le 01/04/2011 10:28, John Wild a écrit :
>> Thank you Georges, that would be useful.
>> 
>> Mine does have the blinds; there are 3 leaves.
>> 
>> Regards
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> On 31/03/2011 17:55, "Georges Giralt" <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>> 
>>> Do you want me to scan the manual ?
>>> 
>>> Le 31/03/2011 18:15, John Wild a écrit :
>>>> Georges,
>>>> 
>>>> You have told me something I did not know! When I get home, I will have to
>>>> see if mine has a shutter which works...
>>>> 
>>>> John
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On 31/03/2011 17:04, "Georges Giralt" <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> John, you've got the good picture.
>>>>> The hood I've is the one on your picture.
>>>>> The user manual state that you close the shutter by turning clockwise
>>>>> the ring just under the rubber lens cap (this ring has small grooves to
>>>>> help turning it).
>>>>> When i turn it one blade show and block half the lens, and one can see
>>>>> two other blades showing about 1/2 mm wide.
>>>>> I will use your information to dismantle the hood and take pictures to
>>>>> show what I've found.
>>>>> I hope I'll be able to make it run fine again.
>>>>> Thanks for your help.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Le 31/03/2011 17:06, John Wild a écrit :
>>>>>> Georges,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Is this the Rollei SL66 metering hood (like the chimney finder) or a
>>>>>> metering prism adapted for the SL66. I am confused by your description.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Rollei did not make a metering prism for the Rollei SL66. There are
>>>>>> adapted
>>>>>> Russian prisms from the Kiev 66 see:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> http://www.baierfoto.de/sl66.html
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I have taken the attached images of the Rollei finder from
>>>>>> http://www.sl66.com/pg/accessories.shtml
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> If it is the Baier one, I expect it can be repaired and a new eyecup
>>>>>> fitted.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Kind regards
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> John
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 31/03/2011 15:09, "georges.giralt@xxxxxxx" <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Thank you John!
>>>>>>> I do not have a tiff viewer at work, will check the drawing at home.
>>>>>>> As per the shutter on the viewfinder, there is one in my light meter.
>>>>>>> And
>>>>>>> there is one blade closing and re-opening (with difficulties) which is
>>>>>>> full
>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>> something looking like machine oil or WD40 (and there is some oil on the
>>>>>>> inner
>>>>>>> face of the viewfinder lens).
>>>>>>> In the user manual they say to close the shutter if you intend to check
>>>>>>> exposure using the external meter window. (in my unit, the meter can't
>>>>>>> be
>>>>>>> seen, the prism seems to have moved during the fall).
>>>>>>> So I've quite some job to do ;-)
>>>>>>> Many many thanks for your help !
>>>>>>> I'll post my comments and progress on the list when I'm finished.
>>>>>>> 
>> 
> 

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