[pure-silver] Re: Spotting and Microscope Questions
- From: photodogden <photodogden@xxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2004 00:41:35 +0100
On 12/10/04 8:05 pm, "Peter De Smidt" <pdesmidt@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> I'd like to get better magnification and viewing for spotting, both for
> negatives and prints. Right now, I use a 3X circular magnifier for
> prints. I don't currently retouch negatives because my 4x loupe isn't
> powerful enough.
> Can anybody recommend something? How about something like:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48740&item=3844548297&r
> d=1
> ? While this is a little pricier than I'd like, well, I'll do what I
> have to. When it comes to tools and instruments, there are a couple of
> levels. First, there's the POS level. These items are so poorly made
> that they won't even do their intented task properly once. Then there's
> the cheap level. These items perform there function adequately for light
> use, althought they are much less rugged and convenient than more
> expensive items. Does anyone have any idea if the type of microscope
> listed on the Ebay link fits in the first or second category? Certainly
> there are more quality levels, but they're too expensive.
>
> On a recent negative, I had a couple of very small clear spots on the
> film. Since I couldn't spot the film, I had to use a 7% tincture of
> iodine solution on the print, which I buy at Fleet Farm. I used a tooth
> pick, but this was a little big. I tried sanding down the toothpick to a
> sharper point, but I worried that this might scratch/mark the paper.
> Does anyone have any suggestions? Of course I didn't notice the very
> small spots until after all of the prints had been selenium toned and
> dried. There's 15-11x14 prints for the rubbish bin!
>
> I use a #2 Dick Blick Kolinsky Sable spotting brush. It seems ok.
> Getting the Spottone/Marshall's dyes to the right hue and density is a
> real PITA. Both Spotone and Marshall's "neutral black" are too blue for
> my selenium toned Ilford FB MG paper. Thus, I have to mix in a drop of
> brown tone dye, which is too strong.. I then have to ad some Marshall's
> blue-black. This gets things pretty close. I wonder how these dyes hold
> up over time? Not to well, I suspect.
>
> I realize that it's better not to have to spot at all, but I don't seem
> able to achieve this. I use a combination of a Zone VI anti-static
> brush and compressed air, but this doesn't seem to be doing the job as
> well as I'd like. Any suggestions welcome. Yes, I try to keep the
> darkroom as free from dust as possible, mainly by mopping/sponging or
> using a hepa vacuum. I keep relative humidity at 40%.
>
> -Peter De Smidt
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To repeat a suggestion I posted earlier in the year; as I find it more
satisfactory to ink a white spot than to bleach a black one, I locate the
pinhole on the easel then ,with the paper in position and the red filter
over the lens, I apply the smallest disc of opaque material that will cover
the spot. This is removed after exposure. Small bits of "Letraset" have the
right amount of tackiness to stay put while being easily removed. If your
aim is not too good, but there is only one spot, you can shuggle the easel a
wee bit, but if there are two or more, patience and accuracy are required.
David Ogden
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