Sorry, I haven't been tracking this thread so I don't know what's been covered. I can only see today's notes......
There are many ways to dry prints. Kodak suggests putting them face down on white felt blotters. Then as they dry they curl away from the blotter. I've seen fibers get stuck and have removed them with a damp Q-tip. Don't worry after it dries again you won't see any marks. A friend dries his prints by taping them face up to glass plates. Then after they dry he cuts the tape off. He has to use over sized paper because of waste. Lately I have been hanging my fiberbase prints from clothesline using plastic clothes pins (don't use wood) and putting a few extra pins on the bottom edge for weight so the prints will dry flatter. After they are dry I flatten them under the weight of two cases of beer. Some one on this list suggested the type of beer was important. I generally use stale, heavy beer rather than fresh, highly carbonated, light beer which may improve the flatness character. The degree of staleness improving the flatness.
I snipped a response about hardening after toning from a previous note... "The CYA answer is to harden your prints after sepia toning. But using the hardener left over from the Kodak Rapid Fixer kits is not good idea unless you have a way to increase the hardener pH to about 4 to 4.5. The Kodak Rapid fix is at that pH and that's why the hardener works with it. So it is better to use Kodak liquid hardener. But being a cheap skate like I am and I just hate to waste chemicals (the unused KRF hardener) I just put thehardener in the remaining used KR fix and fix my sepia toned prints again while hardening
them at the same time. Fixing again has the added benefit of removing any ionic silver that may remain in the print from the bleach / redevelopment steps of the Sepia process." But you have to wash them again. Dave----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 1:21 AM Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Cleaning a Drum Dryer
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bogdan Karasek" <bkarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx>To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 9:14 PM Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Cleaning a Drum DryerThis makes sense. Presumably the prints were washed free of hypo before toning (a good idea for bleach and redevelop toner). The hardener itself and leftover toner should wash out pretty quickly. Again, I hope Dave Valvo will see this and have time to respond, he is he expert here.Hi,Just to add what Kodak has to say on the matter. Both Sepia Toner and Sepia Toner II warm toner give the same directive after the prints have been toned and washed for 30 secs."Harden the print for 2-5 minutes in a hardening bath composed of 1 part KODAK liquid hardener in 13 parts of water or 2 parts KODAK stock hardener F-5a in 16 parts of WaterWash Fiber base for 30 minutes at 18-21°C * 65-70°F (4 min. for RC)" Cheers, Bogdan--- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx =============================================================================================================To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
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