[tcb] Re: Technical Question - Oil and Engine Heat

  • From: "Eric Woodall" <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 11:08:55 -0500 (CDT)

Dual Weber ICT (34's).
Main Jet = Went from 130 to 140
Pilot Jet = Went from 52 to 60

>    I'd also ask what carbs are you running and what was the jetting,
> especially the idle jet numbers for the carbs?
>
>
>   -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Sawyer
> Sent: Jun 15, 2006 10:06 AM
> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Technical Question - Oil and Engine Heat
>
> Try replacing the Scat pulley with a stock one and see if it makes any
> difference.
>
> Eric Woodall  wrote:  Yeah, nothing in the fan.
> Scat degree pulley.
> All seals and tin in place.
> I plan on getting at least a few hundred more miles on the engine before
> the trip...
> Thanks Mark, I'll be there on the 25th.
>
>> That's right on the money. Do you have all your engine to body seals in?
>> I
>> know this sounds stupid but did you check the fan for a cleaning rag
>> getting sucked in? Are you running stock pulleys or a aftermarket degree
>> wheel? I have seen degree wheels be a little smaller and cause a heating
>> problem because the fan is not turning fast enough. It's starting to
>> sound
>> like you just need to get some more miles on the engine. I will be gone
>> this weekend, but for who ever is going to Denis's with us, I will have
>> a
>> tech session at my house on the 25th. (I will also be reinstalling the
>> vanagon engine again, I hope)---mark
>>
>> Eric Woodall wrote: Dizzy = 010 (mech. adv)
>> Timing = 28 (full advance)
>>
>>> What distributor are you running and what is the timing set at??
>>>
>>> Eric Woodall wrote: Deck lid is not too hot to
>>> touch, although it is pretty damn hot...
>>>
>>>> Is the deck lid to hot to touch after you have been driving for a
>>>> while??
>>>> The only reliable temp guage I have ever used is one that has the
>>>> sending
>>>> unit in place of the cap on the pressure relief valve. ASK Imports
>>>> usually
>>>> has them in stock.
>>>>
>>>> Eric Woodall wrote: Engine size is 1600.
>>>> A very un-stock 1600. I am contemplating unhooking my berg dipstick
>>>> until
>>>> the engine breaks in. The damn thing is making me crazy...
>>>>
>>>>> New engines naturally run hot until everything breaks in. Do not run
>>>>> a
>>>>> synthetic oil until after you 2nd or 3rd oil change. If you do, the
>>>>> rings
>>>>> will never seat properly. I forget what size engine you are running.
>>>>> With
>>>>> the miles you have on it now, I would add maybe a half of quart of
>>>>> Royal
>>>>> Purple Oil mixed in with my regular oil change. I did this to one of
>>>>> my
>>>>> engines that I built and it dropped my engine temp by 15 degrees.
>>>>> ---mark
>>>>>
>>>>> Eric Woodall wrote: Hello list members,
>>>>> Been a while since I've been on the list! Good to be back!
>>>>> Here's the deal. I recently got my '66 Split on the road, with a New
>>>>> (not
>>>>> rebuilt) enine, new transaxle, new brakes, etc., etc., etc.
>>>>> I just had my Dual Weber ICT's rejetted to fit my engine specs.
>>>>>
>>>>> I had Jeff (local vw mechanic guru) rejet the carbs, and diagnose
>>>>> what
>>>>> he
>>>>> thought was causing the bus to run hot.
>>>>> Right now I am running straight 40 weight oil, and my bus is still
>>>>> running
>>>>> hot around town (Gene Berg Dipstick).
>>>>>
>>>>> Are my fellow Texas bus friends running multigrade oil?
>>>>> Are you all running multi grade synthetic oil?
>>>>> Do new engines run hotter until they're broken in? (only about 450
>>>>> miles
>>>>> on this one)
>>>>>
>>>>> I really don't want to get into a crazy heated debate about oil, a la
>>>>> type2.com list, but I am just curious.
>>>>>
>>>>> I kind of need to sort this out before going on the long treck up to
>>>>> northwestern Arkansas at the end of the month.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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