Dual Weber ICT (34's). Main Jet = Went from 130 to 140 Pilot Jet = Went from 52 to 60 > I'd also ask what carbs are you running and what was the jetting, > especially the idle jet numbers for the carbs? > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Sawyer > Sent: Jun 15, 2006 10:06 AM > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [tcb] Re: Technical Question - Oil and Engine Heat > > Try replacing the Scat pulley with a stock one and see if it makes any > difference. > > Eric Woodall wrote: Yeah, nothing in the fan. > Scat degree pulley. > All seals and tin in place. > I plan on getting at least a few hundred more miles on the engine before > the trip... > Thanks Mark, I'll be there on the 25th. > >> That's right on the money. Do you have all your engine to body seals in? >> I >> know this sounds stupid but did you check the fan for a cleaning rag >> getting sucked in? Are you running stock pulleys or a aftermarket degree >> wheel? I have seen degree wheels be a little smaller and cause a heating >> problem because the fan is not turning fast enough. It's starting to >> sound >> like you just need to get some more miles on the engine. I will be gone >> this weekend, but for who ever is going to Denis's with us, I will have >> a >> tech session at my house on the 25th. (I will also be reinstalling the >> vanagon engine again, I hope)---mark >> >> Eric Woodall wrote: Dizzy = 010 (mech. adv) >> Timing = 28 (full advance) >> >>> What distributor are you running and what is the timing set at?? >>> >>> Eric Woodall wrote: Deck lid is not too hot to >>> touch, although it is pretty damn hot... >>> >>>> Is the deck lid to hot to touch after you have been driving for a >>>> while?? >>>> The only reliable temp guage I have ever used is one that has the >>>> sending >>>> unit in place of the cap on the pressure relief valve. ASK Imports >>>> usually >>>> has them in stock. >>>> >>>> Eric Woodall wrote: Engine size is 1600. >>>> A very un-stock 1600. I am contemplating unhooking my berg dipstick >>>> until >>>> the engine breaks in. The damn thing is making me crazy... >>>> >>>>> New engines naturally run hot until everything breaks in. Do not run >>>>> a >>>>> synthetic oil until after you 2nd or 3rd oil change. If you do, the >>>>> rings >>>>> will never seat properly. I forget what size engine you are running. >>>>> With >>>>> the miles you have on it now, I would add maybe a half of quart of >>>>> Royal >>>>> Purple Oil mixed in with my regular oil change. I did this to one of >>>>> my >>>>> engines that I built and it dropped my engine temp by 15 degrees. >>>>> ---mark >>>>> >>>>> Eric Woodall wrote: Hello list members, >>>>> Been a while since I've been on the list! Good to be back! >>>>> Here's the deal. I recently got my '66 Split on the road, with a New >>>>> (not >>>>> rebuilt) enine, new transaxle, new brakes, etc., etc., etc. >>>>> I just had my Dual Weber ICT's rejetted to fit my engine specs. >>>>> >>>>> I had Jeff (local vw mechanic guru) rejet the carbs, and diagnose >>>>> what >>>>> he >>>>> thought was causing the bus to run hot. >>>>> Right now I am running straight 40 weight oil, and my bus is still >>>>> running >>>>> hot around town (Gene Berg Dipstick). >>>>> >>>>> Are my fellow Texas bus friends running multigrade oil? >>>>> Are you all running multi grade synthetic oil? >>>>> Do new engines run hotter until they're broken in? (only about 450 >>>>> miles >>>>> on this one) >>>>> >>>>> I really don't want to get into a crazy heated debate about oil, a la >>>>> type2.com list, but I am just curious. >>>>> >>>>> I kind of need to sort this out before going on the long treck up to >>>>> northwestern Arkansas at the end of the month. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > >