[tcb] Re: Anyone ever heard or seen this before? is it snakeoil ?
- From: jki7886155@xxxxxxx
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 11:59:42 -0500
These oilers have been around since before I was a teenager. In my opinion,
they can't hurt anything but, do they reduce maintenance?, I have never seen
any proof, pro or con. My friend put one on his mother's '50 Plymouth which
(once in a while) we used to spike with some either that his brother would
bring home from Medical School. It sure would would make that old "flat head 6"
fly!
Jack Kirsch
So what is the answer from the more experienced (I wasn't going to say older)
VWers about whether the oiler is a good idea or not???
sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
In some cases tight is good but not in VW valve adjustment.
Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
everytime i run my valves i notice hardley any difference in the feeler
gauge from what they were set on...perhaps this is because i do it about once a
month (600 miles tops). i was a bit concerned with that untill i was told that
is a good thing that a tight valve is the no bueno type situation
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 07:19:25 -0800
From: bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] Re: Anyone ever heard or seen this before? is it snakeoil ?
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Where there are engineers there are always lots of opinions. Both Steve and
Denis should be able to speak with experience on trashed valves.
Will's right about watching the adjustment; and if one keeps getting tight on
you it's a darn good idea to pull the head before catastrophe happens. I used
to have a VW powered airplane (Evans VP-1) and after every 50 or so hours of
flying time I would yank the heads and replace all exhaust valves.
Will Wood <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
The kit is similar to the Marvel oiler. The Marvel oiler in my opinion
has better control
but top end cylinder lubrication is always a good
thing. Water injection will also give you similar results but it's more
difficult to control.
It definitely helps a Judson Engine stay alive but I don't know if I
agree about all of the other statements they make in their ad.
>> Exhaust valve seat recession can result, a
>> condition where valve and seat materials adhere to and erode each
>> other, with the valve migrating up
>> into the head.
If you severly overheat the engine or have crappy heads or valve work
done this can also happen which is more common. Running the engine
lean, bad timing or heavy loads all contribute to the heat issue. The
10% Ethanol in Gas doesn't help either since it leans out the mixture.
>> As this occurs, valve stem to rocker tip clearance is reduced. If
>> this clearance reduces
>> to zero, the valve no longer closes, resulting in a burned
valve.
That's why you adjust your valves... Valves have more of a tendancy to
stretch from fatigue. Any time you have a valve "tighten up" it is a
cause for concern since normally the clearance should stay relatively
the same.
If you run moly pushrods you should run them "loose zero" since the
engine expands as it warms up. Steel doesn't expand like aluminum does.
Any valve failure can occur if the parts are questionable. Like reusing
exhaust valves which result in the most damaging catastrophies. Even if
you have great parts it can happen. I lost a seat in a set of CB Street
Eliminators after 1200 miles on the engine. I also know of another
person who had two valve guides come loose and the seating area cracked
around the guides on a brand new set of CB heads after 900 miles on the
heads. This isn't inexpensive stuff either...
My rule of thumb on a street engine is every 35-40K miles the heads come
off and the
exhaust valves are replaced along with a valve job.
On Wed, 2007-11-28 at 02:46 -0600, Trey Jung wrote:
>
> http://www.ampcolubes.com./vw.html
>
>
> There's an ad on thesamba.com too .......... Just wondering....
>
> Trey
>
>
You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i’m
Initiative now. Join in!
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Sawyer <mechmark@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 10:29 am
Subject: [tcb] Re: Anyone ever heard or seen this before? is it snakeoil ?
So what is the answer from the more experienced (I wasn't going to say older)
VWers about whether the oiler is a good idea or not???
sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
In some cases tight is good but not in VW valve adjustment.
Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
everytime i run my valves i notice hardley any difference in the feeler
gauge from what they were set on...perhaps this is because i do it about once a
month (600 miles tops). i was a bit concerned with that untill i was told that
is a good thing that a tight valve is the no bueno type situation
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 07:19:25 -0800
From: bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] Re: Anyone ever heard or seen this before? is it snakeoil ?
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Where there are engineers there are always lots of opinions. Both Steve and
Denis should be able to speak with experience on trashed valves.
Will's right about watching the adjustment; and if one keeps getting tight on
you it's a darn good idea to pull the head before catastrophe happens. I used
to have a VW powered airplane (Evans VP-1) and after every 50 or so hours of
flying time I would yank the heads and replace all exhaust valves.
Will Wood <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
The kit is similar to the Marvel oiler. The Marvel oiler in my opinion
has better control
but top end cylinder lubrication is always a good
thing. Water injection will also give you similar results but it's more
difficult to control.
It definitely helps a Judson Engine stay alive but I don't know if I
agree about all of the other statements they make in their ad.
>> Exhaust valve seat recession can result, a
>> condition where valve and seat materials adhere to and erode each
>> other, with the valve migrating up
>> into the head.
If you severly overheat the engine or have crappy heads or valve work
done this can also happen which is more common. Running the engine
lean, bad timing or heavy loads all contribute to the heat issue. The
10% Ethanol in Gas doesn't help either since it leans out the mixture.
>> As this occurs, valve stem to rocker tip clearance is reduced. If
>> this clearance reduces
>> to zero, the valve no longer closes, resulting in a burned
valve.
That's why you adjust your valves... Valves have more of a tendancy to
stretch from fatigue. Any time you have a valve "tighten up" it is a
cause for concern since normally the clearance should stay relatively
the same.
If you run moly pushrods you should run them "loose zero" since the
engine expands as it warms up. Steel doesn't expand like aluminum does.
Any valve failure can occur if the parts are questionable. Like reusing
exhaust valves which result in the most damaging catastrophies. Even if
you have great parts it can happen. I lost a seat in a set of CB Street
Eliminators after 1200 miles on the engine. I also know of another
person who had two valve guides come loose and the seating area cracked
around the guides on a brand new set of CB heads after 900 miles on the
heads. This isn't inexpensive stuff either...
My rule of thumb on a street engine is every 35-40K miles the heads come
off and the
exhaust valves are replaced along with a valve job.
On Wed, 2007-11-28 at 02:46 -0600, Trey Jung wrote:
>
> http://www.ampcolubes.com./vw.html
>
>
> There's an ad on thesamba.com too .......... Just wondering....
>
> Trey
>
>
You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i’m
Initiative now. Join in!
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