Hello Thor,
for 35mm the shift lenses like the Nikon 28mm PC is fine for dealing with
Perspective Distortion retaining the impression of hight with a mountain. To
achieve a large DOF you only can stop down. If your lenses still have a
Depth-of-field-scale you can use hyperfocal focusing to efficient use of your
DOF for a given aperture. The problem with smaller apertures is the loss of of
quality due to diffraction blur.
Tilting is another story. Imagine the DOF as a board which hangs in the air
plane-parallel to your lens and film plane. An reduction of the aperture
(larger f-stops) results in an evenly "growth" of the thickness of this board
(the DOF) towards you and away from you. "Tilting" means that you can tilt the
vertical board resulting in a slope. When you pose this "slope" in your motive
you can achieve the DOF so efficiently that you need not stop down as much
required with a fix lens. With a view camera you can not extend your DOF but
position it freely where you want it. Additionally you can deal with
Perspective Distortion, too. The process of finding the right position of your
"board" in your motive by tilting requires some control on the focusing screen.
This is done with a loupe. Having done this on a 5x4 monorail I found the 6x6
screen to small for my taste. For the 6000 Rolleiflex there is a nice Schneider
PCS Super Angulon 55mm f/4.5 which can do tilt & shift as well. There is no
rule of thumb on "how much movement you need". The DOF depends on you format,
reproduction scale, tilt & shift movements required. There is a fine DOF
calculator from Rodenstock out there with a fine explanation included on how to
do use the Scheimpflug principle on a view camera
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/155145-REG/Rodenstock_260700_Depth_of_Field_Calculator.html
I use it myself. The designer of the calculator, Mr. Schön does the large
format workshop at Linhof in Munich for decades:
http://linhof.com/en/linhof-workshops-und-seminare/ He is very good in ;
explaining how to use a view camera properly.
On cameras - if you want to do serious architectural work you will need a view
camera. The Graflex cameras are fine but they where designed as press and not
as a technical camera. They don't have the front and back movements you will
need. The Linhof Technika has more movements (the wide angle lens capability
increased with later versions). There are so many used Sinar Norma, F, P1, P2
or Plaubel Peco, Profia 5x4 inch monorail around you get them for a good deal.
For a field camera I might have a look at a china built Shen Hao:
http://www.shen-hao.com or Chamonix: ;
http://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/cameras.html. Anyway a 5x4 monorail can be ;
fairly small as the Arca Swiss Misura proves:
http://www.galerie-photo.com/misura_peronne_us.html
A word on the reliability of the Rolleiflex 6000 - I use a 6008 professional
since 2010 and it never let me down. It is a very fine camera and a well
thoughtful planned system. I never would change it for a Hasselblad. The old
NiCad cells can now be replaced by modern NiMH or even LiPo (Lithium) cells.
Here's an information (in German):
https://www.photoscala.de/2017/10/05/neu-von-wiese-fototechnik-akkus-und-ladegeraet-fuer-rolleiflex-6008-6006-slx-und-lens-control/
Paepke Fototechnik in Duesseldorf can also do the NMH refit.
Best regards,
Volker
______________________
mailto: volker_muth@xxxxxxx
Am 01.05.2018 um 00:25 schrieb Thor Legvold:
One thing I’ve noticed pretty much always when doing landscape shots, is that
more often than not I want an extreme depth of field. If there isn’t a plant
of flower in the foreground and mountains in the background, there’s at least
mid-ground and background that I want sharp.
The first few examples here are similar to what I mean:
http://www.photoaxe.com/how-and-when-should-i-use-a-shallow-depth-of-field-part-2/
Since I’ve always used small format (35mm) and medium format (6x6), there
hasn’t really been much of a solution, aside from very rare and pricey
tilt/shift adapters. Never having tried one, I don’t know if it would really
help, or is more geared towards smaller adjustments for architectural
photography, f.x. Has anyone used one of these and can comment?
I’ve toyed with the idea of picking up a folding field camera like a
Speed/Crown Graphic or Linhof Master Technica but always put it off. Now I
wonder if that is maybe what would solve my DOF dilemma when out shooting
landscapes. How much more of a DOF can I expect with movements? How much
movements do I need to do what I’m describing?
There’s also the Rolleiflex SL66 (to keep things on topic, lol). I’ve heard
it’s heavy and unwieldy, that none of my 6000 series lenses will work with
it, and that the electronics tend to fail. But I’m open to hear other
people’s experiences and suggestions.
Every time I see a 8x10 print I’m blown away by the tonality, detail,
sharpness, and 3D quality, but I don’t want to deal with carrying an 8x10 rig
around with me. Plus figuring out how to load it, develop it, print it, store
it. That’s just too much, which is why I’m thinking maybe 4x5 would be a nice
step up from 6x6, but not as heavy/bulky/slow as 8x10. It’s seems still
relatively compact and manageable.
Can anyone who’s worked with these different format and cameras comment?
Thanks,
Thor
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