I'd like to get better magnification and viewing for spotting, both for negatives and prints. Right now, I use a 3X circular magnifier for prints. I don't currently retouch negatives because my 4x loupe isn't powerful enough. Can anybody recommend something? How about something like: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48740&item=3844548297&rd=1 ? While this is a little pricier than I'd like, well, I'll do what I have to. When it comes to tools and instruments, there are a couple of levels. First, there's the POS level. These items are so poorly made that they won't even do their intented task properly once. Then there's the cheap level. These items perform there function adequately for light use, althought they are much less rugged and convenient than more expensive items. Does anyone have any idea if the type of microscope listed on the Ebay link fits in the first or second category? Certainly there are more quality levels, but they're too expensive. On a recent negative, I had a couple of very small clear spots on the film. Since I couldn't spot the film, I had to use a 7% tincture of iodine solution on the print, which I buy at Fleet Farm. I used a tooth pick, but this was a little big. I tried sanding down the toothpick to a sharper point, but I worried that this might scratch/mark the paper. Does anyone have any suggestions? Of course I didn't notice the very small spots until after all of the prints had been selenium toned and dried. There's 15-11x14 prints for the rubbish bin! I use a #2 Dick Blick Kolinsky Sable spotting brush. It seems ok. Getting the Spottone/Marshall's dyes to the right hue and density is a real PITA. Both Spotone and Marshall's "neutral black" are too blue for my selenium toned Ilford FB MG paper. Thus, I have to mix in a drop of brown tone dye, which is too strong.. I then have to ad some Marshall's blue-black. This gets things pretty close. I wonder how these dyes hold up over time? Not to well, I suspect. I realize that it's better not to have to spot at all, but I don't seem able to achieve this. I use a combination of a Zone VI anti-static brush and compressed air, but this doesn't seem to be doing the job as well as I'd like. Any suggestions welcome. Yes, I try to keep the darkroom as free from dust as possible, mainly by mopping/sponging or using a hepa vacuum. I keep relative humidity at 40%. -Peter De Smidt ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.