[pure-silver] Re: Old Paper Developer Question
- From: "BOB KISS" <bobkiss@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 11:27:01 -0400
DEAR ERIC,
I once printed a show of 45 16X20s on Oriental Seagull graded paper
using Amidol. I found that using a little citric acid to stabilize it kept
it very active for just over four hours. I used to mix a "before lunch"
batch and an "after lunch" batch. The last few days before the framing
deadline I also mixed an "after dinner" batch! (LOL)
It is a great developer giving wonderful blacks but it certainly
demands discipline to make use of its limited life. Not as convenient as
modern developers.
CHEERS!
BOB
-----Original Message-----
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Eric Nelson
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 1:26 AM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Old Paper Developer Question
I can't speak to the anti-fog abilities of glycin or
amidol based developers, but in my experince, amidol
developers oxidize REALLY fast and amidol itself isn't
cheap. I'm talking literally 2 hours of life and a
limited number of prints.
Eric
--- Don Sweet <don@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I have few boxes of 25+ year old enlarging paper,
> including Ilfobrom and Portriga Rapid. It is
> unopened, so I decided before blazing away I should
> look for some information about how to best to
> process it, particularly to minimise fog. First I
> sourced some benzotriazole which I thought could
> just be added to Dektol or Neutol or Bromophen
> developer.
>
> Then following links from the UnblinkingEye website
> I found some suggestions that both amidol-based or
> glycin-based developers are more resistant to fog
> than the usual MQ or PQ blends. Does anyone know if
> that is right, and whether either of them is likely
> to be a better developer for my old paper?
>
> Thanks
> Don Sweet
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