That is what I am having trouble getting my head around. I do use a
densitometer and have very controlled process always using a spot meter and
developing my Z7 density to 1.2 over base fog and my Z1 density to .1 over BF.
So if I adjust my process as I always do to get my zone densities right the
contrasty lens will still be contrastier than the lower contrast lens.
The next stage after film process for my roll film is direct duplicating film
which doesn’t have the same type contrast control of VC paper and the final
stage of my process is pt/pd printing.
Just hard to get my head around overall contrast and lens contrast.
thanks Dennis
On May 15, 2015, at 9:32, Tim Daneliuk <tundra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On 05/15/2015 11:28 AM, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 05/15/2015 11:13 AM, Dennis wrote:
Hello group.
I am thinking of acquiring a camera with a notoriously contrasty lens.
(Fuji GW 690 type) and my question is this, can the contrast of a lens be
controlled or lessoned (in black and white) through softer film process?
If I have a lower contrast European lens and a higher contrast Japanese
lens can I adjust either to look like the other through film processing?
thanks for the opinions and help
DennisTo unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to
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Yes. You can underdevelop to reduce negative contrast. You will also
typically experience some loss of effective film speed when you do this.
The most complete way to figure out how much underdevelopment you
need and how that affects your film speed is to use a densitometer.
However, you can probably get close enough by reducing development about
20% for every stop of contrast you want to pull in, and expose your
film at 1/3 stop less. This is a guestimate, but it will get you going.
I should also mention that my consistent experience *using* a densitometer
is that - if your meters and thermometers are reasonably accurate - most
film needs be exposed at 1/2 rated ASA and underdeveloped about 20%
for *normal* contrast.
Now then, I'm not sure why any of this is necessary in the case of the GW 690.
Modern VC papers have more than enough range to be able to pull in the
contrast of the lens to where you want it to be. If you're not printing
silver, but scanning, the same applies to digital manipulation.
Expose your negatives to capture the widest possible range of light
appropriate
for the subject then manipulate in the darkroom/computer for effect.
IOW, get it on the negative and throw it away later.
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