[HUG] Re: 2000 negatives problem...
- From: Evan J Dong <ejdong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: hasselblad@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 14:18:09 -0400
Vincent,
Which 2000 body do you have? If its the later version that has the
shutter retraction, check to see if your curtain is retracting.
Dennis Greco at Hasselblad USA is one of just two worldwide technican
currently still employed to work the 2000/200 series.
The other technican resides in Sweden.
When I last spoke with him several weeks ago regarding one of my
friend's 2000FC coming into the, he mention that there are no longer new
shutter curtain available and definitely no electronic circuit boards if
needed. The curtains could be salvage from a dead 2000 series body that
are still good. But without any replacement electronic circuitboards,
the camera would not be repairable.
It might be good time to look for a spare 200 series body if you intend
to stay with focal length bodies. The 201F is a good a starting point.
Just be aware that there is a magnetic pickup plate that controls the
shutter curtain opening and closing, that is priceless and very costly
to replace if its broken. You would have a very expensive 501CM body
then. I have a 201F as an extra spare body to backup my 205TCC.
Evan Dong
Vincent Frazzetta wrote:
Before I call Hasselblad service (it was CLA'd recently): there's a
new problem occurring with either the 2000 body or my two well used
A12 backs (one back holds self developed B&W, and the holds lab
developed color). Several negatives display a 1/2" wide light-leak
kind of ghost line horizontally across the middle of the negative, but
not quite reaching edge to edge (horizontal, when holding the strip up
and down). On either side of this ghost line, the negative is dark.
Sometimes the adjacent negative is perfect. Sometimes the adjacent
negative is black or deep gray. As I say, the problem has just
started. I do switch backs regularly, and perhaps the back isn't
snapped tight to the body, but that doesn't account for the 1/2" line
being horizontal on the frame. And worn seals (on both
simultaniously!) wouldn't account for the perfect negatives. Any
clues, folks?
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