[elky] Re: '80 Alternator

  • From: Robert Adams <elcam84@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 09:16:29 -0600

Yes, I had previously used the brown wire that originally plugged into
> the SI alternator.  I had to extend the wires since the V6 had the alt
> on the passenger side.  I do not know where that brown wire
> originates.  I changed the "L" (lamp) exciter wire to a wire coming
> from the HEI plug with a 470 ohm resistor.
>

                    470 is right IIRC.  IIRC the brown wire comes from the
fuse box through the gauge cluster. Cars with a light it goes through the
light and gauge cars it doesn't have a light and has nothing to do with the
gauge.

                    Now  gauge cars had the resistor built into the
alternator. That's why you have to use a resistor on cars without gauges.
Also the older SI alts weren't as sensitive to having that resistor.

>
> I installed the new CS130 alternator and I'm back in business: 14.7
> volts read at the alt.  When the alternator is "on" with key turned
> you can hear a high pitched sound, the same as the previous CS130
> (before it died).  I hope the resistance is correct...
>

               One thing you can do to improve charging is to run the big
red wire from the connector to the fuse box instead of to the output stud on
the alternator. It adjusts voltage going by what it sees on that red wire.

>
> One snag, I had to clock (rotate) the alternator housing so the stud
> would clear the valve cover.  I don't use the rear support, so this is
> not a problem.  It's a bit more tidy with the alternator plug hidden.
>

          That's a big NO NO. Never move the clocking of a CS alternator.
They are one position alternators. If the clocking is wrong you need a
different alternator.


                        Robert Adams






> On Wed, Nov 24, 2010 at 6:10 AM, John Christensen <johncgg@xxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> > Is that the brown wire that goes to the 2 wire clip on the back? Where
> does
> > the other end go? To the dash cluster? Are we there yet?
> >
> > My gauge on the Monte reads way low, but the voltage measures fine at the
> > battery. I think there is a bad connection somewhere. I had the dash
> partly
> > out to fix the transmission gear selector indicator (the little loop
> > broke.... they all do, so a little binding wire fixed it). I didn't tear
> it
> > down far enough to clean the contacts on the ribbon connector. Seems like
> > that fixed the same situation on the Elky, but only for a short time. I
> > should replace the middle bulb on the Monte too. Why does that one always
> go
> > out???
> >
> > I should also pay attention to the bulbs. when I start it next time. I
> know
> > the check engine light has been pulled, along with the computer. I
> suppose
> > if the bulb is out, I could be in trouble then.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > JC
> >
> > On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:34 PM, Chris Lindh <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> I measured the same voltage on the "L" exciter wire as the voltage at
> >> the battery, and the only warning light illuminating when I turn the
> >> ignition to "on" is the "Fasten Belts" light.  So I took the
> >> ignition-on 12V source from the HEI plug and added a 470 ohm resistor,
> >> 1/2 watt, so when the battery voltage read 11.85 the L wire now reads
> >> 11.75.
> >>
> >> I've read stock CS alternator wiring has a resistor in the wiring in
> >> case the warning light goes out... my '80 probably does not have this
> >> resistor.  A 50 cent bulb took out the alternator?
>
>
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>
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