Walker,
thank you for the info but what I want is to obtain the best result
possible with my Canon, not for an Epson at this time. But yes I also
have a small Epson 1430 at the moment with Piezo K6 neutral inks,
Quadtone Rip and Piezography Pro (xlsb) . I have paper feed problem with
the 1430 so I'll see about that later.
Funny you talk about what is "neutral". I kind of came to the conclusion
that there are many things to consider, paper, viewing condition, etc.
You added, the idea of what is culturally "neutral" which seem an
excellent idea. Sound similar to what Adams said about the negative
being the partition and the print being the performance. Adding cultural
to this is a touch above I would say.
My goal, is more about "control" then only number matching. I intend to
use a Piezography Pro ink set and if I understand correctly, I can
basically setup whatever toning scheme I want, a kind of signature or
possibly better yet, a unique rendering on a per image basis. Another
reason to be in "control" so I can simulate all this before wasting
paper and inks as much as possible. Yes I can simulate all I want but
there is nothing like the real thing in the end.
Thanks again,
Yves
On 9/17/2021 7:55 AM, Walker Blackwell wrote:
Dear Yves, I think I mentioned this in the QTR forum as well . . . I suggest using QuadtoneRIP as this gives you full control of the colorant amount and placement. Richard’s neutralizing curve creator will work with those inks. That’s going to get you the closest with a standard color ink set on an epson printer. The key here though is that there is no real perceptually agreed upon neutral. Everyone has a different cultural and internal neutral point. D50-AB-at-0 neutral actually looks pretty green to most people. So you will want to really tweak and tune it based on your paper and printing preferences to make a more culturally acceptable “photo” neutral most likely. When I formulated the Piezography Pro inks I went through 120 iterations of neutral selecting a ton of silver prints for visual comparison as well as research in what USA neutral was kinda like vs Europe vs South East Asia vs hue split between OBA papers and non. I did not want to just choose some scientific lab standard and stick to that because those generally don’t actually look /that/ good.
Regards,
Walker
On Sep 16, 2021, at 8:06 AM, Yves Gauvreau <gauvreauyves@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:gauvreauyves@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
Hi,
I'm curious to know if someone would have some suggestion(s) to create an ICC profile of whatever type (device link, abstract, normal) for a RGB Printer that would produce the best possible B&W print in terms of neutrality. I suppose that neutrality must be defined in some way as well and suggestion on how to verify that the print is matching the criteria we set as neutrality.
Thanks,
Yves
