I think that as soon as you use the color inks you open the door to
metameric effects as the illuminant changes, in particular due to UV
fluorescence issues with OB in paper and the encapsulation of the color
inks (yellow).
Sticking to the various Epson grays may be a better option.
Edmund
On Thu, Sep 16, 2021 at 2:32 PM Yves Gauvreau <gauvreauyves@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Roger,
I didn't mentioned the ambient light and or viewing conditions because
that's a Pandora's box. Let's assume D50 viewing conditions for know.
~Yves
On 9/16/2021 8:16 AM, graxx@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
What a difficult subject, Yves.have
As a matter of fact, I just printed a "Grayscale" image on my Epson P5000
earlier this week.
I placed it on my drawing table until I cut it with my x-acto. It must
stayed on the table all night.we
If I look at the print next to the window in my office, it looks sort of
"neutral-bluish"; if I look at it under my LED ring light task lamp, it
looks "reddish-magentish"; if I look at under my GTI overhead luminaire
fitted with ISO-3664:2009 fluorescent tubes, it looks "brownish".
That's using Epson Proofing Standard 240, printing in RGB from Photoshop
using Epson's own ICC profile for this paper.
/ Roger
-----Original Message-----
From: argyllcms-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <argyllcms-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> On
Behalf Of Yves Gauvreau
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2021 8:06 AM
To: argyllcms@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [argyllcms] B&W printing
Hi,
I'm curious to know if someone would have some suggestion(s) to create an
ICC profile of whatever type (device link, abstract, normal) for a RGB
Printer that would produce the best possible B&W print in terms of
neutrality. I suppose that neutrality must be defined in some way as well
and suggestion on how to verify that the print is matching the criteria
set as neutrality.
Thanks,
Yves
