LuAnn, When you hoop a garment in a tubular hoop, the sewing field is supported on all sides (Yes, I know a circle has no sides...). When you hoop a cap, the sewing field is truly only supported by the metal strap that goes across the bill seam. Meaning that you have a greater chance of experiencing flagging in the cap while she's sewing, especially at higher speeds. Depending on your hooping skills and the type of cap you are sewing, you want to try to get the sewing surface to be rather rigid in the cap frame. Ways that help with this would be because it's a stiff cap, or you've really got it hooped tight, or you understand the concept behind how backing supports the cap in the frame, or you've got the cap hooped at the right angle so the inside of the cap is not dragging on any of the edges of the needleplate, etc... If you can minimize or eliminate the flagging, then you might find that you could sew at higher speeds with success. I think it was Ron or Herb who said he was sewing his caps at 1200 SPM. Way to go! Of course another factor could be what design you are sewing or what material thickness setting are you using or whether or not the moons of Jupiter are in alignment that evening. My point, the longer you play with it, the better you'll get at it. Best of luck to ya'. Ed Orantes -----Original Message----- From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of image embriodery Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 2:14 PM To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [amayausers] Best speed for WACF Good afternoon all, I have a question. I have always slowed my machine down to do caps. If I run the same design for flats and caps I generally reduce the speed by 200. Am I being too conservative? It should would be nice to run these caps faster. I'm at 800 right now. Thanks... LuAnn @ Image Embroidery Because Your "Image" Matters