[roc-chat] Re: Paper tube refinishing question
- From: Jack Garibaldi <jackgaribaldi@xxxxxxx>
- To: <roc-chat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2012 11:26:05 -0800
Park
I know you probably don’t want to dive into fiber glassing but
the Biaxial sleeves are pretty easy to slide over tubes and wet out.
http://www.solarcomposites.com/composites/compositehybrid.html#coloredfiberglass
Jack
From: roc-chat-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:roc-chat-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Tom Hanan
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2012 10:14 AM
To: roc-chat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [roc-chat] Re: Paper tube refinishing question
Rick,
Have you ever tried transforming paper tubes into composite tubes using CA
(Crazy Glue)?
I have done it a few times to strengthen "crumpled" "Franken Rocket" tubes for
kids rockets but never for higher power( >E).
My own testing showed that a CA composite paper tube has "significantly" higher
tube strength & survivability with minimal increase in weight. The trick is
using unsealed paper tubes or applying the CA from the inside.
I have used this technique several times to build ultralight, motor diameter,
multi-stage, 25mm rockets with exceptional performance and durability.
Specifically a 3000' D0 to E9 multistage with streamer recovery for "W"
conditions. Build time using motor diameter plastic fin sets was less than an
Hr start to finish. That $5 rocket survived multiple child induced recovery
system failures that took >1" Playa core samples. They have to learn somehow ;)
Slow bonding forms of CA, that allow you to brush them on the outside of the
tube, are the easiest to work with, but you have to make sure to start with an
unsealed tube. Some times I spray on an accelerant after applying the CA but
that actually does not seem to make the tube any lighter or stronger. It just
speeds up the time before I can do the rest of the build steps.
Just wondering if anyone else has made their own ultralight composite tubes
this way? Or more specifically if anyone has tried using this technique on
re-loadable motor diameter rockets?
I am working on a <$1 KISS method for reusable motor retention in ultra low
cost motor diameter rockets.
On 12/14/2012 10:32 PM, Rick Dickinson wrote:
Simply drip some thin CA into the "wound". It'll soak in, and toughen it up
significantly. Then, sand it smooth after it dries, and paint it.
Cheers,
Rick Dickinson
Mike Riss <mailto:rockt_dude@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> <rockt_dude@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
If it's a standard paper tube, you're probably talking about the glassine outer
layer. It's going to be hard to patch the damaged areas without any sanding,
risking doing more damage. You'll want something that's easy to sand, like
Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/3M-3-oz-Bondo-glazing-and-spot-putty/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=540155
What are you going to use on the body tube surface before painting? Whatever
it is, it should work for repairing the area as well.
Mike
--- On Fri, 12/14/12, Park Warne <mailto:wpwarne@xxxxxxxxx>
<wpwarne@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: Park Warne <mailto:wpwarne@xxxxxxxxx> <wpwarne@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [roc-chat] Paper tube refinishing question
To: roc-chat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Friday, December 14, 2012, 9:41 AM
Hi all!
I am in the process of sanding/stripping my DX3 (paper tubes) and got a little
"enthusiastic" in some spots. In those spots the outer paper surface seems to
be shredding, almost like the extreme outer layer of the tube is peeling off
(looks a little like white glue peeling off, but there is no glue there).
My question is does anyone have any ideas on how to get a clean, smooth surface
for painting on a tube with this type of defect? The two ideas I have at this
point are:
1. Build up the surface gently and thoroughly with automotive hi-build primer
and sand, sand, sand
2. Apply a light coat of diluted wood filler (almost like a plaster skim coat
on a wall) and sand until smooth
I do want to try and minimize weight and maximize durability, but I'm at a bit
of a loss on this one.
Thanks in advance, and have a happy holidays!
Park Warne
NAR 94438 - L1
--
Sent using the electronic equivalent of finger paint. Please excuse my brevity
and misteaks.
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