[roc-chat] Re: Paper tube refinishing question

  • From: Tom Hanan <tom.hanan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: roc-chat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2012 10:14:22 -0800

Rick,
Have you ever tried transforming paper tubes into composite tubes using CA (Crazy Glue)?
I have done it a few times to strengthen "crumpled" "Franken Rocket" tubes for kids rockets but never for higher power( >E).
My own testing showed that a CA composite paper tube has "significantly" higher tube strength & survivability with minimal increase in weight. The trick is using unsealed paper tubes or applying the CA from the inside.
I have used this technique several times to build ultralight, motor diameter, multi-stage, 25mm rockets with exceptional performance and durability. Specifically a 3000' D0 to E9 multistage with streamer recovery for "W" conditions. Build time using motor diameter plastic fin sets was less than an Hr start to finish. That $5 rocket survived multiple child induced recovery system failures that took >1" Playa core samples. They have to learn somehow ;)
Slow bonding forms of CA, that allow you to brush them on the outside of the tube, are the easiest to work with, but you have to make sure to start with an unsealed tube. Some times I spray on an accelerant after applying the CA but that actually does not seem to make the tube any lighter or stronger. It just speeds up the time before I can do the rest of the build steps.
Just wondering if anyone else has made their own ultralight composite tubes this way? Or more specifically if anyone has tried using this technique on re-loadable motor diameter rockets?
I am working on a <$1 KISS method for reusable motor retention in ultra low cost motor diameter rockets. 


On 12/14/2012 10:32 PM, Rick Dickinson wrote:
Simply drip some thin CA into the "wound". It'll soak in, and toughen it up significantly. Then, sand it smooth after it dries, and paint it. 

Cheers,

Rick Dickinson

Mike Riss <rockt_dude@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

    If it's a standard paper tube, you're probably talking about the
    glassine outer layer.  It's going to be hard to patch the damaged
    areas without any sanding, risking doing more damage.  You'll want
    something that's easy to sand, like Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty:

    
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/3M-3-oz-Bondo-glazing-and-spot-putty/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=540155

    What are you going to use on the body tube surface before
    painting?  Whatever it is, it should work for repairing the area
    as well.

    Mike


    --- On *Fri, 12/14/12, Park Warne /<wpwarne@xxxxxxxxx>/* wrote:


        From: Park Warne <wpwarne@xxxxxxxxx>
        Subject: [roc-chat] Paper tube refinishing question
        To: roc-chat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
        Date: Friday, December 14, 2012, 9:41 AM

        Hi all!
        I am in the process of sanding/stripping my DX3 (paper tubes)
        and got a little "enthusiastic" in some spots.  In those spots
        the outer paper surface seems to be shredding, almost like the
        extreme outer layer of the tube is peeling off (looks a little
        like white glue peeling off, but there is no glue there).
        My question is does anyone have any ideas on how to get a
        clean, smooth surface for painting on a tube with this type of
        defect?  The two ideas I have at this point are:
        1. Build up the surface gently and thoroughly with automotive
        hi-build primer and sand, sand, sand
        2. Apply a light coat of diluted wood filler (almost like a
        plaster skim coat on a wall) and sand until smooth
        I do want to try and minimize weight and maximize durability,
        but I'm at a bit of a loss on this one.
        Thanks in advance, and have a happy holidays!
        Park Warne
        NAR 94438 - L1


--
Sent using the electronic equivalent of finger paint. Please excuse my brevity and misteaks.

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