[pure-silver] Re: shooting in snow
- From: w keith griffith <kgriffit@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 20:20:19 -0800
2 1/2 stops open from a reflected reading. YMMV
Sorry about bringing up a piano players version of exposure
control,,, but spot meter the brightest snow you want texture in,,,
and call it two stops (or 2 1/2 stops) different than 18% (or
15%). (that'd be zone 7 for the snow, 5 for grey, and likely to be a
bit hi in contrast, so that accounts for the little bit of extra
exposure to help out the shadows which is why the 2.5 F correction
instead of 2.0
The spot meter works fine. Just that it really, really depends on
experience, knowledge and thought behind it.
Incident light meter, as long as you're in the same amount of light
that the picture is in is the easiest way to deal with the
problem. (I'm to wrapped up in the whole technical process to do
that ;-) Already posted more than I know about that.....
Oh Man,,, just read what I wrote. I guess Flame On!!! Just remember
it's a hobby!!!
At 06:55 PM 2/10/2011, you wrote:
Well don't be so sure a spot meter will work either. You have to
remember that the spot meter is just going to give you an exposure
as if it were 18% gray. A really dark building the meter will try
to make 18% gray. Same with the snow. It's so reflective but that
meter gives a reading as if the snow was 18% gray. That leads to
lousy looking snow.
Now an in camera meter likely would have a way to evaluate and come
up with a workable reading doing the compensating in the
software. There was a time when it was just a couple of points of
measure, but now most cameras will have at least 20+ if its a
digital slr. If snow is the bulk of them, its comes out 18% gray
most of the time.
For snow the best way I have found is to use either a gray card or
if you are lucky use an ambient light meter that measures the light
falling on the meter rather than light reflecting back to the meter
as a spot would. If you get caught without a gray card, I have used
the palm of my hand as the next best thing.
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: shooting in snow
From: Don Sweet <<mailto:don@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>don@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, February 10, 2011 7:15 pm
To: <mailto:pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Could the snow be frozen by using a flash of the correct temperature?
Don Sweet
----- Original Message -----
From: <mailto:dlp4777@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>Dennis Purdy
To: <mailto:pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2011 6:12 AM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: shooting in snow
On Feb 10, 2011, at 08:19, Robert Hall wrote:
'd like to shoot some buildings with the snow falling down,
something I haven't done before. Does anyone have any general
thoughts on shutter speeds or depth-of-field to get me started. I
use a spot meter, so I shouldn't have any trouble getting a good exposure.
Thanks.
--
John Bower, an Indiana Artisan
<http://www.studioindiana.com/>http://www.studioindiana.com/
Snow is white so a darkish background shows it better and it is
moving pretty quickly so depending if you want to freeze it in mid
flight or let it blur some you need to not have a real slow shutter speed.
Dennis
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to
your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when
you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
=============================================================================================================
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,)
and unsubscribe from there.
Other related posts:
