[pure-silver] Re: Toning formulas

  • From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:26:51 -0700


----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim MacKenzie" <jim@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 8:10 AM
Subject: [pure-silver] Toning formulas




----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 5:13 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Rodinal in Montreal



Kodak Brown Toner is similar to "new" Viradon. The original Viradon was a combination toner with Polysulfide and Selenium, Kodak Polytoner was similar. Both companies discontinued the combination toner a couple of years ago. Agfa coninued to make Viradon but as a Polysulfide only toner.

Thanks for posting the formula. I recently got some silver sulfide so that I could make a sepia toner from a formula that I have (I think it's an Agfa formula; I can look it up if desired). It uses potassium ferricyanice as the bleach. The only chemical that wasn't in my darkroom was the silver sulfide so I'm ready to go.


Are these liver of sulfur formulae better, worse, different ... ? I'm a bit of a toning newbie.

Jim
_Silver_ sulfide, do you perhaps mean Sodium sulfide? Bleach and redevelop sepia toners use either sodium sulfide or thiocarbamide as the redeveloper.
As far as Polysulfide toners I think there is little difference. A solution of plain liver of sulfur in water will work. The Image Permanence Institute has a Liver of Sulfur formula using Borax devised for toning microfilm which uses Borax and is supposed to be low odor. As long as KBT is available I suspect its not worth mixing your own.
Bleach and redevelop toners, also called indirect toners, are best on cold or neutral tone papers because they tend to produce a yellowish brown. The color of the toned image depends on the color of the original silver image and to some degree on the developer. Single bath toners, also called direct toners, generally produce colder tones, more suitable for warm tone paper. KBT and my combination toner may produce very little color shift on some cold or neutral tone paper. There is no sure way of predicting this, one has to try.
There are a great many toner formulas. Those published by Kodak and Agfa/Ansco seem to be reliable. There are good formulas from other sources also but those from very old books may not work as advertised.
Tim Rudman is the expert on toning. His book _The Photographer's Master Printing Course_ contains an excellent section on toning and I beleive he has a book dedicated to toning.
Prints toned in sepia toners are very resistant to degradation.


---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx


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