My camera is pretty light, and the distance between the pivot and
the arm is
pretty short, so it was just slightly bottom heavy. I had to add a
little
bit of weight to the top (above the pivot point) so the pivot can
be close
to the center of gravity.
*** *** *** *** *** *** ***
tho x. bui
blahx3@xxxxxxxxxxx
http://thoxbui.com
On Jan 4, 2010, at 1:28 AM, Bobby Metz wrote:
Is the wood frame your only counterweight? Or do you add a light
weight to
the bottom platform?
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
From: tho at godaddy
To: phoenixdiy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 12:21 AM
Subject: [phoenixdiy] Re: Yet another steadicam gimbal
Yes, the roundness of the acorn nut fits into the indentation of the
opposite screw/nut and freely rotates.
I'm pretty sure you don't want the camera to turn when the handle
is turned,
that isolation from the hand movement is the main purpose of the
steadicam
design.
For intentional panning, you can see a rubber band on my rig. By
tugging
(gently) on the rubber band, you create a smooth rotating action
without
jerking it around.
tb
*** *** *** *** *** *** ***
tho x. bui
blahx3@xxxxxxxxxxx
http://thoxbui.com
On Jan 3, 2010, at 8:54 PM, Mark Rehorst wrote:
I'm still here!
Do I understand your mechanism to work by allowing the acorn nut to
swivel
on top of the opposite screw/nut?
Great, simple design, but will the camera turn with the steady
cam's handle
or will it tend to stay pointed wherever it started?
It seems to me that the high camera + steady-cam mass will cause
the handle
to turn without turning the camera...
Keep DIYing!
MR
