My camera is pretty light, and the distance between the pivot and the arm is pretty short, so it was just slightly bottom heavy. I had to add a little bit of weight to the top (above the pivot point) so the pivot can be close to the center of gravity.
*** *** *** *** *** *** *** tho x. bui blahx3@xxxxxxxxxxx http://thoxbui.com On Jan 4, 2010, at 1:28 AM, Bobby Metz wrote:
Is the wood frame your only counterweight? Or do you add a light weight to the bottom platform?Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: tho at godaddy To: phoenixdiy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 12:21 AM Subject: [phoenixdiy] Re: Yet another steadicam gimbalYes, the roundness of the acorn nut fits into the indentation of the opposite screw/nut and freely rotates. I'm pretty sure you don't want the camera to turn when the handle is turned, that isolation from the hand movement is the main purpose of the steadicam design.For intentional panning, you can see a rubber band on my rig. By tugging (gently) on the rubber band, you create a smooth rotating action without jerking it around.tb *** *** *** *** *** *** *** tho x. bui blahx3@xxxxxxxxxxx http://thoxbui.com On Jan 3, 2010, at 8:54 PM, Mark Rehorst wrote:I'm still here!Do I understand your mechanism to work by allowing the acorn nut to swivel on top of the opposite screw/nut? Great, simple design, but will the camera turn with the steady cam's handle or will it tend to stay pointed wherever it started? It seems to me that the high camera + steady-cam mass will cause the handle to turn without turning the camera...Keep DIYing! MR
