[elky] Re: Oil Pan R&R
- From: Robert Adams <elcam84@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2011 15:50:27 -0600
On Sun, Dec 26, 2010 at 7:30 PM, Chris Lindh <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>wrote:
> I'll start with the question: On a G-body El Camino like my '80, how
> hard is it to remove the oil pan? I have an engine hoist.
>
Well dunnow.. I need to change my oil pump too and pickup as
well as pan.. My pan has a dent where the pickup is and I think the pickup
has fallen some and is sucking towards the pan. Pressure is fine cold it's
just hot idle it's low. Probably a crappy stock pump...
>
> (I know my '80 is technically an A-body, maybe I should say "metric
> chassis".)
Never call anything "metric" it's a term hillbillys use to
call anything that has anything metric on it. Like the trannys they called
metric cause it had metric stamped on the pan and even though there were
several types of trannys that had that stamped on it they lumped it into
that...
It's one of my pet peeves like people that spell Camaro
with an E. I'm going to start taking a marker to the swapmeet and fix
peoples spelling mistakes.
> The back story: I started an oil change and am considering
> replacing the 8 quart pan on the 406 with a stock type pan (and
> pickup). Why? The 8 quart pan leaks in the front, and leaks at the
> rear but I don't know if that leak is the pan or the rear main seal.
> (Also I'll need a stock type pan if/when I add a single turbo). These
> leaks are not new, they've been there since I built the engine. Can a
> small block Chevy be leak free?
>
Yes it can but a ford however...
As long as you have a one piece rear main block and 87+ heads
it can be. But... The valve cover rails need to be machined flat regardless
of the head type. And there are some real junk rear main seals out there
too.
>
> When I built the engine I used a Melling Select oil pump; the 406 has
> great pressure at startup and at any RPM over idle (as high as 80
> PSI!). At hot idle the gauge shows 10 PSI or less, which is unnerving
>
Mine is running about 10-15 at hot idle and that's with air
temps in the 100s usually. Just off idle it jumps up to normal.
Also if you are running a stock GM type oil pressure switch
to power the fuel pump you will begin to have problems with the engine
shutting off at idle.
> - but I've just read that the "C" series of these pumps have
>
> anti-cavitation grooves which causes a low oil pressure at idle. The
>
> problem is I can't find the receipt to remind me which pump I bought
> (frustrating since I save receipts). I know it was a Melling Select
> pump and the corresponding bolt-on pickup. Some say the pressure is
> fine as long as there is oil pressure... part of the problem is the
> EFI is calibrated rich which is putting fuel in the oil, thinning it.
> I'm considering swapping the oil pump while I'm in there.
>
Any time i put a pump in an engine I always use a high volume
high pressure pump. Never had a problem when I have done that.
>
> Items I would need to disconnect before lifting the engine to get the pan
> out:
>
> Distributor Cap
> Exhaust
> Engine Mounts
> Fuel line
> Other items?
>
> If I can swap the pan without draining the coolant and disconnecting
> the transmission I'll do it...
>
> Input? Suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
I think you have most of it listed there. Might be
some interference items just have to lift and see. When you are done you can
change the pump and pan in mine.
Oh make sure you have the felpro oil pan clips. The blue
plastic things that hold the gasket and pan up while you get the bolts in.
They are a life saver and usually come with felpro oil pan gaskets. And an
oil pump stud VS the bolt usually holds better.
Robert Adams
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