I see you have it planned, but
just for discussion sake, since it's solely a racecar,
maybe cut a hole in stock hood, and let air filter sit
in 135 MPH wind. Same as cold ram air, and avoid all
the plumbing over the engine.
Smokey Mt Frank
Bleeve me, aero is the way to go. I plan to run the car
faster (150-160 at least) and at that speed, managing the
air over the car, particularly keeping the flow smooth is
important. Many guys even run the exhaust out in front of
the front wheel openings to help smooth that area. If I
was running it on a drag strip, I'd cut the hole and put a
scoop on it. But on the salt, you're running for a much
longer distance and the less aero drag there is, the more
speed you can wring out of the car. It's not like the
drags where ya got fat rubber gripping the VHT surface at
the starting line...we run skinny tires (better traction,
for sure, since the weight of the car is concentrated on a
smaller area) and run for a minimum of a mile before the
timing lights on the 130 course, 3 miles on the long
course. On the international courses they set up at the
Shootout, it's 11 miles long. Four miles to get up to
speed, 3 timed miles and 4 miles to slow down. Sounds
crazy, but at 450mph, it takes a while to get a 10,000
pound car (I'm not kidding...that's about what the
Burkland liner weighs) stopped. And if one chute
fails...well, it gets kinda hairy:
In this shot, only one of the wheels is in contact with
the ground. He stopped 1/4 mile short of I-80. Here's
the whole thing:
http://www.chevyasylum.com/lsr/bsf2008/shootout/burkland/Welcome.html
About the wires on the headers/pulley: Yes, there are
wires on the headers. :) They're for the probes that go
to the Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) monitor probes (this
is an old photo):
In the other photo it looks like they're on the pulley,
but they're zip-tied to the alternator bracket.
I'm on my way to get some silver paint for the underside
of the hood.
Later,
r
On 7/22/2011 10:48 AM,
STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx
wrote:
In a message dated 7/22/2011 12:22:17
P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
It's needed.
The carb won't clear the hood with the
single-plane manifold and 1"
spacer...not to mention the cold air
intake:
Alla that stuff brings the top of the air
cleaner about 3" above the normal hood
line. The hood has a 4 3/4" raised
section. I figgered 6" was overkill. :)
r
On 7/22/2011 9:54 AM, STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx
wrote:
Is the raised hood a necessity,
or for looks?
Smokey Mt Frank
In a message dated
7/22/2011 11:25:12 A.M.
Eastern Daylight Time,
rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
I
could have been that, but
it wouldn't restart until
it had cooled off. The
O/P at idle is
around 10 psi and runs at 40
(when hot) at around 2500
rpm. It's about what I'd
expect in a motor with that
many miles on it.
Last nite I was gonna
install the glass hood on
the race car, but decided
I'd looked at the peeling
paint on the nose for long
enough. I scraped, sanded
and cleaned, then gave it a
quick shot of black:
The lens kinda distorts it a
bit, but it looks like what
it is: a rattle-can job that
covers the cracked/peeled
areas. "Better'n it wuz."
;)
I'll paint the underside of
the hood silver and the top
flat black for the time
being.
r