I see you have it planned, but
just for discussion sake, since it's solely a racecar,
maybe cut a hole in stock hood, and let air filter sit
in 135 MPH wind. Same as cold ram air, and avoid all the
plumbing over the engine.
Smokey Mt Frank
Bleeve me, aero is the way to go. I plan to run the car
faster (150-160 at least) and at that speed, managing the
air over the car, particularly keeping the flow smooth is
important. Many guys even run the exhaust out in front of
the front wheel openings to help smooth that area. If I was
running it on a drag strip, I'd cut the hole and put a scoop
on it. But on the salt, you're running for a much longer
distance and the less aero drag there is, the more speed you
can wring out of the car. It's not like the drags where ya
got fat rubber gripping the VHT surface at the starting
line...we run skinny tires (better traction, for sure, since
the weight of the car is concentrated on a smaller area) and
run for a minimum of a mile before the timing lights on the
130 course, 3 miles on the long course. On the
international courses they set up at the Shootout, it's 11
miles long. Four miles to get up to speed, 3 timed miles
and 4 miles to slow down. Sounds crazy, but at 450mph, it
takes a while to get a 10,000 pound car (I'm not
kidding...that's about what the Burkland liner weighs)
stopped. And if one chute fails...well, it gets kinda
hairy:
In this shot, only one of the wheels is in contact with the
ground. He stopped 1/4 mile short of I-80. Here's the
whole thing:
http://www.chevyasylum.com/lsr/bsf2008/shootout/burkland/Welcome.html
About the wires on the headers/pulley: Yes, there are wires
on the headers. :) They're for the probes that go to the
Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) monitor probes (this is an old
photo):
In the other photo it looks like they're on the pulley, but
they're zip-tied to the alternator bracket.
I'm on my way to get some silver paint for the underside of
the hood.
Later,
r
On 7/22/2011 10:48 AM,
STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx
wrote:
In a message dated 7/22/2011 12:22:17 P.M.
Eastern Daylight Time,
rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
It's needed. The
carb won't clear the hood with the
single-plane manifold and 1" spacer...not
to mention the cold air intake:
Alla that stuff brings the top of the air
cleaner about 3" above the normal hood
line. The hood has a 4 3/4" raised
section. I figgered 6" was overkill. :)
r
On 7/22/2011 9:54 AM, STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx
wrote:
Is the raised hood a necessity, or
for looks?
Smokey Mt
Frank
In a message dated 7/22/2011
11:25:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight
Time,
rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
I
could have been that, but it
wouldn't restart until it
had cooled off. The O/P at
idle is around 10
psi and runs at 40 (when hot)
at around 2500 rpm. It's
about what I'd expect in a
motor with that many miles on
it.
Last nite I was gonna install
the glass hood on the race
car, but decided I'd looked at
the peeling paint on the nose
for long enough. I scraped,
sanded and cleaned, then gave
it a quick shot of black:
The lens kinda distorts it a
bit, but it looks like what it
is: a rattle-can job that
covers the cracked/peeled
areas. "Better'n it wuz." ;)
I'll paint the underside of
the hood silver and the top
flat black for the time being.
r