I could have been that, but it wouldn't
restart until it had cooled off. The O/P at idle is
around 10 psi and runs at 40 (when hot) at around 2500 rpm. It's
about what I'd expect in a motor with that many miles on it.
Last nite I was gonna install the glass hood on the race car, but
decided I'd looked at the peeling paint on the nose for long
enough. I scraped, sanded and cleaned, then gave it a quick shot of
black:
The lens kinda distorts it a bit, but it looks like what it is: a
rattle-can job that covers the cracked/peeled areas. "Better'n it
wuz." ;)
I'll paint the underside of the hood silver and the top flat black
for the time being.
r
On 7/21/2011 9:58 PM, Robert Adams wrote:
If it happens again watch the oil
pressure at idle. If it's dropping then the oil pressure switch
is probably opening and shutting the fuel pump off. Pretty
common on cars with miles and hot weather.
Not sure which engine you have but most
of the 6s are easier to work on. But F-bods had a few odd
engines (including 151 4 cyls)
Robert Adams
On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 10:27 PM, Ray
Buck <rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
I sure understand about things goin to hell as soon as
the warranty is up. Sucks big time.
I installed the new ignition module and coil (took a good
portion of the day for something I could have done in an
hour with a smallblock...makes me start to wonder) and
then put another bottle of cooling system cleaner in and
drove the beast for about an hour. Temp never got over
185. I think I've got the overheating thing under control
(fingers crossed.) Now to get the horn to work, dose it
up with alcohol in the gas tank and take it for emission
testing and safety inspection. (More finger crossing.)
No car show this weekend, so I'm gonna work on the race
car. It's gettin real close to BFT time. (Every
appendage possible crossed.)
r
On 7/21/2011 8:10 PM, Jim Dos wrote:
Thanks
for the report.
You
always think of the small stuff that usually
works on the problem. Skills , man. You got
skills.
I think
your printer happiness (unhappiness) has spread
to me. My Kodak esp 9 AOI has been real good ,
but all of a sudden it’s printing real faintly.
Have always been using Kodak genuine carts, and
similar problem with the quality. I guess I’ll
go to Kodak and see if there are any solutions
other than sending it in.. It’s out of warranty.
Time for
something new I suppose.. this is over a year
old..never fails.
Jim
I'm
not keeping track. I don't wanna know. :)
With the exception of the radiator, most of the
parts have been fairly cheap maintenance items.
Like the temp gauge: only $18. The coil and
module will be $60, but I'll keep the old ones
as spares in the car, since they seem to work
fine when cool.
I don't have a huge amount invested in it and
all the stuff I've replaced, with a coupla
exceptions are things I'd wanna replace on a car
of that age and mileage (although it has 100k
more than the seller told me...I'm still pissed
about that) to make sure it was reliable.
Off to the parts store.
r
On 7/21/2011 10:54 AM, STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx
wrote:
How much have you
invested in this Camaro so far?
Smokey Mt Frank
In a message dated
7/21/2011 12:41:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight
Time, rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
Yesterday I did a buncha
stuff on the Camaro, including running
some radiator flush chemical (sodium
citrate) thru the cooling system, then
backflushing it and finding out that my
manual fan switch has to be switched on
AFTER starting the motor. I have no idea
why, but it does.
So yesterday around dusk (9 pm or so) I
took it out for a drive. Temp never got
over 160...no thermostat in it at the
moment. But. (As usual, there's a
"but".) I probably drove it 3 times as
long as I'd ever driven it before and,
again, it stayed nice and cool. I decided
to turn back and head home (I was almost
to downtown Salt Lake City) and I made the
mistake of turning onto a street carrying
traffic from the minor-league baseball
game that had just ended. Stop and go for
at least 15 minutes...and then the motor
just shut off.
So I'm stuck in traffic with a dead motor
and I turn the 4-way flashers on. Then I
twist the key and the motor starts. 90
seconds later, it dies again and won't
start. A coupla guys push me and the car
into a parking lot and I call AAA.
Great. I can get it hauled back to my
house.
After 30 minutes of waiting (traffic was
still real heavy) and no tow truck, I
twist the key and the thing starts. So I
let it run for 5 minutes, shut it off for
a few and try again. Starts right up. So
I called AAA and cancelled the towing
request and drove the thing home. Again,
engine temperature never got over 160.
Diagnosis: Flaky ignition module and/or
coil. So today I'll go get another bottle
of radiator flush, do it again and replace
both the coil and module. Then I'll drive
it for a while with the flush chemical in
it, then bring it home (assuming that it
doesn't die on me) backflush the cooling
system again and move on to the next
problem, the lack of a horn (the fuse is
good.)
Anyway, I'm very glad I had the AAA card,
even though I didn't need it in the end.
It sure helped with peace of mind, knowing
that if I couldn't get it running again,
I'd have a way to get it home.
I can't remember if I sent this photo:
The new hood arrived yesterday and I
brought it home from the trucking depot
(that's a story in itself) and it's ready
to be bolted on as soon as I remove the
hood latch mechanism, which is what's
keeping it from seating correctly along
the front edge.
Busy, busy, busy. :)
r
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