Dean, You could have one of two scenarios.. If your needle bars are in fact "stuck", they could be bent which would prevent them from sliding smoothly which would render them "sticking or stuck". The other is that they have lost their calibration with the respect to the reciprocator due to the fact that the rubber bumpers (3 per needle) that prevent metal slamming against metal with each needle stroke (metal needle bar vs. metal needle case) are worn, damaged, or in fact missing because they have fallen out of the needle case. This is probably your problem as it is a common one and will eventually be for all EMT owners. Depending on the oil you use, how much you oil your needle bars, how old the machine is, what the climate is, and also how much usage each needle gets plays a big factor with these rubber bumpers. Truthfully, the official name for them are "rubber dampners". If you are mechanically inclined, you could replace them yourself however the calibration procedure is kind of reserved for those who have been to and paid for EMT training. It's how we make our living. That's not to say you can't wing it on your own but if the settings are not set correctly, you may wind up with more wear than you bargained for down the line and ultimately have to replace more expensive parts as a result. Also know that there are two different size dampners and three required for each needle bar. A total of 30 and Melco sells them for a buck a piece. Think of it as having to replace your tires on your car every several years of usage. Sure hope this helps. Ed Orantes Amaya/EMT/EMC Tech. New Orleans, LA 504-258-6260 -----Original Message----- From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Dean Zellman Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 6:27 PM To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [amayausers] Re: EMC 10T Hi Ed: Some of my Emc 10 needle bars seem to get stuck and don't drop as they should. I don't recall hitting hoops where the bar may have bent. How could I troubleshoot this. Thanks! Dean -----Original Message----- From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of E. Orantes Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 9:57 AM To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [amayausers] Re: EMC 10T I haven't heard of an EMC/EMT forum. Having been manufactured by Melco and being the Amaya predecessors, I wouldn't think there'd be an issue discussing them here. Also, as a tech for those machines in addition to the Amaya, you're more than welcome to ask questions and talk about them with me. Besides, we're all one big happy family here. Ed Ed & Maralien Orantes E.M. Broidery 900 Terry Parkway, Ste. 200 New Orleans, La. 70056 504-EMBROID ery (504-362-7643) -----Original Message----- From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Dean Zellman Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 4:51 PM To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [amayausers] EMC 10T I'm new to this forum as I plan to purchase an Amaya next month. I currently use an EMC 10T. Is there be a forum for this machine too? Thanks Dean Mr. Stitch Embroidery -----Original Message----- From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Rod or Sharon Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:09 PM To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle rotation??? Ed mentioned somrthing sometime back that still seems to be just amazing. While the Amaya is sewing and a stitch is being formed, a given piece of thread will pass " back and forth" through the eye of the needle approximately " 40 times " before it is acually laid down on the garment!!!!!! Now if that thread is placed in an extra bind because the needle is cocked to far off center...well.....just one more cause for a thread break to occur. Rod Embroidery Cottage Rod & Sharon Springer Melco Trained Amaya Tech/Trainer Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing Boise, ID 83713 208-938-3038 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marty Bies" <mbies@xxxxxxxxxx> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:45 PM Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle rotation??? In training in Denver the instructor made it very clear that all machines leave the factory with the needles straight ahead. He also said that the test sewout is done with the needles straight ahead as well. He compared turning them to advancing the timing on your car for performance. You are changing the timing of the rotory hook to compensate for the thread twist and other factors as Ed mentioned below. We have gone back and forth and have not noticed much of a difference. I usually put them in straight. Marty J2H Design Elk River, MN -----Original Message----- From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Roland R. Irish III Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 1:33 PM To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle rotation??? Both the service tech that came here to test the machine, and John in New Jersey, showed us that 'straight' needle is not preferable-that they need the slight 'angle' or counterclockwise rotation. Wife agrees with me that they both said FIFTEEN degrees but no one ever actually sat down and measured it...my eyeball says if 'straight' is 6:00, then the angle they showed us (and we've used it for a year) is 5:00. Now that I know about what causes the 'tail' I'm going to watch out for over angle. Setting any of them straight is immediate thread breaks and unraveling, doesn't matter sharp or ball. Roland > From: "E. Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx> > Reply-To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 13:23:45 -0500 > To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle rotation??? > > Roland, > Wise men say, and this is for all embroidery machines, that the needle > should be installed in the needle clamp so that the eye of the needle > is straight front to back. It should be perpendicular to the rotary > hook point as the hook spins around to grab the thread passing through the needle eye. > Very similar to the child riding the Merry Go Round horse reaching out > to grab the big brass ring as he/she goes around (something I once saw > in a 3D movie at Disney World). > The only reason you would choose to rotate your needle so that the eye > of the needle would be offset by 5 degrees or so is to compensate for > thread that has entirely too many twists in it. Meaning that, as the > thread tends to relax from being pulled straight as the needle begins > it's upstroke, the thread would then twist slightly to the right (due > to the standard cone wrapping direction) behind the needle and just > out of position to be caught by the rotary hook point. What you would > experience would be intermittent missed stitches and then possibly > thread breaks due to an excess of top thread with no where to go, and > only on those needles with the twisty type thread. I was recently > working with some rayon thread from Madeira that was more curly than > not. Although everything was sewing fine so we left the needles in > their original positions. You would never want to turn your needle to > the left unless your thread spool was wound backwards. (I have seen > some out there). Also, I believe 5 degrees to the right is maximum > that is recommended. Very slight indeed! Ed > > Ed & Maralien Orantes > E.M. Broidery > 900 Terry Parkway, Ste. 200 > New Orleans, La. 70056 > 504-EMBROID ery (504-362-7643) > > -----Original Message----- > From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Roland R. Irish > III > Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 7:14 AM > To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [amayausers] Re: thread breaks - help > > > How about the angle the needle is 'turned' in the shaft? I've had the > same problem (and now pretty much refuse to embroider on 'teeshirt' > material-just takes too much work) and after checking everything you > mention, I find my wife (who does most of the setup) isn't turning a > new needle to get the 15 degree or so angle counterclockwise. Also, a > tendency to have the plate just a hair to the left of dead center. > Once I reset the needle and set the plate back to the right, usually that stops it! > Another similar problem was fixed when we started replacing the top > rollers at the 2 million stitch mark-worst thread breaks were > happening on the rollers with the most wear. Probably a combination of > all 3 things but changing it helped! > > > > >