[tcb] Re: condenser and heated brain farts
- From: Justin Wilt <sunbugone@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2011 20:07:55 -0600
Vapor lock is possible if that pipe is being heated by the heater box. I
have some insulation pipe you can slide over the hose, good stuff. That way
you won't have any heat transfered into the fuel lines and eliminate that as
a possible cause. Have you checked for fuel in the float when the engine
quits? Sometimes the fuel tank vent becomes clogged and after 30min or so
of driving, it forms a vacuum in the tank. This starves the pump, engine
quits, after allowing it to sit and relieve the vacuum, it starts again.
Try driving it without the fuel cap on and see if it quits. I have seen
where the bakelight fuel pump stand swells and locks up the rod which
results in lack of fuel as well. Let me know if you want some fuel pipe
insulation.
Justin
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 5:57 PM, Gerald Livingston
<gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>wrote:
> Checked the points.
>
> Changed the fuel filter.
>
> Neither solved the original problem.
>
> Wasn't the condenser either.
>
> So, how many of you with a single Solex newer than the 30-PICT are
> running with an "idle air cutoff solenoid" that has the plunger clipped
> off? I am (again) now. It was also new. It's the second one that has
> failed on this motor. Cheap Chinese crap.
>
> If it won't idle, check the dang IDLE CIRCUIT!
>
>
> Now, on to the new problem.
>
> Did any of you know that brain farts are hot enough to cause vapor lock?
>
> Bus cranked up fine after it sat a couple of hours. Runs OK for short
> trips around town with 30 - 45 minute cool downs between runs.
>
> That is vapor lock.
>
> Why is it suddenly prone to vapor lock in 60° weather?
>
> Because, when changing the fuel filter I pulled out the accordion
> heater tube (which is pretty messed up) and I left it out.
>
> Even though the heater tubes inside the engine compartment are not
> hooked up and blowing air through the heater boxes there is still a
> significant amount of header heat coming out the front of them ---
> directly below the fuel tank outlet and my filter. That heat was
> previously blocked by a 6" diameter plastic covered asbestos tube. Now
> it isn't.
>
> Is the replacement tube for a '70 a 60/60 or a 60/50? Only early
> splitties had the 60/50, correct?
>
> G2
>
>
> On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 15:48:56 -0600
> Gerald Livingston <gvl2@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > I bought a set of points based on the behavior. I got my head in there
> > and the installed points look fine. Ran a points file through the gap
> > and it slipped easily with very little bite so there's no pitting.
> >
> > Next step with the behavior it's exhibiting --- crawl under the bus,
> > push the heater tube out of the way, look at the fuel filter. I
> > suppose the 1/8" of crap sitting in the bottom of it might have
> > something to do with the stumble-and-die problem. <sigh>
> >
> > It's in a spot that I need to get my good jack from the house to raise
> > the bus and change the filter.
> >
> > The reason I suspected I might need a resistor on the coil is because
> > I run the full 14.x VDC generator voltage to my coil through a relay
> > and about 3 feet of new wire straight from the battery + post. It's
> > not getting only whatever volts happen to make it back through 30
> > feet of 40 year old wire and a keyswitch.
> >
> > G2
> >
> > On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 15:22:43 -0600
> > "chuck" <sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >
> > > http://www.historicwinton.org/Ignition%20Condensors.htm This may
> > > help. oleblue
>
>
--
Justin Wilt
Technician
Post Oak Motorcars
Rolls Royce Motorcars Houston
Bentley Houston
1530 West Loop South
Houston TX 77095 USA
+1-713-850-1530
+1-713-539-4419
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