[tcb] Re: condenser and heated brain farts

  • From: Gerald Livingston <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2011 17:57:54 -0600

Checked the points.

Changed the fuel filter.

Neither solved the original problem.

Wasn't the condenser either.

So, how many of you with a single Solex newer than the 30-PICT are
running with an "idle air cutoff solenoid" that has the plunger clipped
off? I am (again) now. It was also new. It's the second one that has
failed on this motor. Cheap Chinese crap.

If it won't idle, check the dang IDLE CIRCUIT!


Now, on to the new problem.

Did any of you know that brain farts are hot enough to cause vapor lock?

Bus cranked up fine after it sat a couple of hours. Runs OK for short
trips around town with 30 - 45 minute cool downs between runs.

That is vapor lock.

Why is it suddenly prone to vapor lock in 60° weather?

Because, when changing the fuel filter I pulled out the accordion
heater tube (which is pretty messed up) and I left it out.

Even though the heater tubes inside the engine compartment are not
hooked up and blowing air through the heater boxes there is still a
significant amount of header heat coming out the front of them ---
directly below the fuel tank outlet and my filter. That heat was
previously blocked by a 6" diameter plastic covered asbestos tube. Now
it isn't.

Is the replacement tube for a '70 a 60/60 or a 60/50? Only early
splitties had the 60/50, correct?

G2


On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 15:48:56 -0600
Gerald Livingston <gvl2@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> I bought a set of points based on the behavior. I got my head in there
> and the installed points look fine. Ran a points file through the gap
> and it slipped easily with very little bite so there's no pitting.
> 
> Next step with the behavior it's exhibiting --- crawl under the bus,
> push the heater tube out of the way, look at the fuel filter. I
> suppose the 1/8" of crap sitting in the bottom of it might have
> something to do with the stumble-and-die problem. <sigh>
> 
> It's in a spot that I need to get my good jack from the house to raise
> the bus and change the filter.
> 
> The reason I suspected I might need a resistor on the coil is because
> I run the full 14.x VDC generator voltage to my coil through a relay
> and about 3 feet of new wire straight from the battery + post. It's
> not getting only whatever volts happen to make it back through 30
> feet of 40 year old wire and a keyswitch.
> 
> G2
> 
> On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 15:22:43 -0600
> "chuck" <sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> > http://www.historicwinton.org/Ignition%20Condensors.htm  This may
> > help. oleblue

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