[soapcraft] Re: photo
- From: Louise Shing <louiseshing@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: "soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 16:55:30 +1200
You¹re welcome...good luck.
Louise
on 16/6/10 8:10 AM, Jan Abernethy at janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Thanks Louise
> That helps heaps. I ordered some colour yesterday so will try that when it
> arrives.
> Regards Jan
>
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> On Behalf Of Louise Shing
> Sent: Tuesday, 15 June 2010 10:40 p.m.
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
>
> Hi Jan
>
> You have to act quickly when mixing soap as soon as you get trace you need to
> mix in colour and eos and pour. As a beginner I used to always have a thick
> trace as had to make sure had trace before pouring. Now after several months
> or so (and lots more confidence) I sometimes get a thin trace and when I pour
> with thin trace I get a nice smooth top/pattern.
>
> You¹ve used the wrong stuff for colouring cp-soap cake decorating gel is for
> cakes the colour won¹t take to cp-soap. I use Gina¹s colours which work
> well, use only about a pinch but mix well first in a little bit of oil they
> are bright colours. If you¹re more inclined to use natural - Liz (on the
> list) sells natural colour haven¹t used yet but I intend to try out alkanet
> root soon.
>
> Can¹t use soap straight away as it needs to cure for a minimum of 4 weeks
> shed water, get right PH, etc otherwise might be too harsh on skin.
>
>
> Cheers
> Louise
>
> Nighty night!
>
>
> on 15/6/10 7:47 AM, Jan Abernethy at janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> Good luck with your first soap making Jenny. I didn¹t use any beeswax.
>
> I made mine in the weekend, first time. It¹s come out quite nice, it only
> made 8 soaps so next time I will double or triple the recipe.
>
> My problems were:
>
> I was trying to get a nice colour (but didn¹t manage to) so by the time I
> thought oh well that will do, it was quite thick and not very easy to pour, so
> I ended up with pour pattern as you do when you make thick icing. If it was
> thinner would I not have got that pattern? I presume so.
>
> What can anyone suggest to get a nice colour and how much to I use. I was
> only using a little bit thinking I only need a little bit, but it hardly made
> any difference, so I added and added and added and it still didn¹t make a huge
> difference. I used the gel you can get for cake decorating. Also used Mica
> which is used to colour lip balm but neither of them seemed to make much
> difference. Do I need to add quite a lot or am I using the wrong stuff? The
> colours themselves in the containers were very bright but didn¹t make much
> difference when added.
>
> When the soap is made, can it be used straight away? I know it has to harden
> but can you also use it straight away?
>
> Regards Jan
>
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> On Behalf Of Jenny Holmes
> Sent: Monday, 14 June 2010 6:05 p.m.
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
>
> Hi Everyone
>
>
>
> Thanks so much for all your replies. I have been away from my computer for
> the last day and it has been a very nice surprise to have all your suggestions
> and help. It now seems I can go straight ahead and make the soap.
>
>
>
> I think I will make the recipe that Liz suggested and leave out the beeswax
> if it doesn't contribute that much. I'll keep you posted as to how I get on.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Jenny
>
>
>
>
>
> On 13/06/2010, at 1:09 PM, Liz Brook wrote:
>
>
> Hi Jenny,
>
>
>
> 1. Yes it is ok to halve the recipe.
>
>
>
> 2. Yes you can use any type of beeswax - but, and this is just me, I
> wouldn't make a soap with beeswax for my very first soap recipe. Beeswax is
> an unnecessary fiddly ingredient that you don't need when making soap for the
> first time. Also, unlike Gina, I wouldn't use more than 2% - it will reduce
> lather.
>
>
>
> 3. Yes fine to use lavender hydrosol, but as the others have said any good
> properties will not carry through to the soap and certainly not the scent.
>
>
>
> 4. I make lavender soap all the time - it holds up just fine. Make sure you
> use a good lavender essential oil and for a recipe that size I would use 40ml
> - if you halve - 20ml. Having said that, a little patch is lovely with
> lavender. No seizing with either.
>
>
>
> 5. Yes fill to the top - just fine.
>
>
>
> Can I suggest another recipe Jenny? I really think for a first soap you
> really want things to be as straight forward as they can be.
>
>
>
> Olive - 367grams
>
> Coconut - 125 grams
>
>
>
> Caustic Soda - 68.grams
>
> Water - 134 grams
>
>
>
> Essential oil - 20mls
>
>
>
> Purely my suggestion of course - let us know how you get on.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Liz
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: JHolmes <mailto:Tinks2@xxxxxxxxxx>
>
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 9:48 AM
>
> Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [soapcraft] Re: photo
>
>
> Hi Everyone
>
>
>
> Hope you're all gong well. I almost made my first batch of soap yesterday. I
> was following the first recipe out of Soap Naturally - Olive & Coconut Cold
> Process but found myself putting it off as I've got a couple of questions. My
> questions are:
>
>
>
> Is it OK to halve recipes or would it be better as a first-timer to keep to
> the original receipe?
>
>
>
> Is it OK to use cosmetic grade beeswax instead of the unbleached?
>
>
>
> Is it OK to use lavender hydrosol as the distilled water. The hydrosol is
> actually distilled water but it has residual lavender elements in it.
>
>
>
> I've been told that Lav.Ess.Oil doesn't keep it's scent staying power in soap
> v. well and its good to add a base note ess.oil to fix it. I was thinking of
> adding a little bit of either patchoulli, sandalwood or cedarwood. I'm
> wondering if any of those will cause the seizing I've been reading about.
>
>
>
> The last question is - when pouring soap into the mould - can you fill to the
> top? or is it going to expand like bread?
>
>
>
> I now have a better feeling for Victorian design and have thought it great to
> have the stimulation to search out something new. So thanks for stimulation
> :)
>
>
>
> Jenny
>
>
>
>
>
> On 9/06/2010, at 5:57 PM, Ross Spencer wrote:
>
>
> Is anyone else having trouble keeping up with the Jans? J
>
> Ross (not Jan)
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jan Martin
> Sent: Wednesday, 9 June 2010 4:56 p.m.
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
>
> Hi Jan
>
> At least you know what you want (or rather don't want). Good on you, there
> are not many people these days who can do the same. :-)
>
> Jan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Jan Abernethy <mailto:janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx>
>
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Sent: 9 June 2010 8:11 AM
>
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
>
> Jan
>
> Good idea, thanks for that and if I can¹t see the pics sometime, then I can¹t
> see the pics.
>
> I will never be interested in going on Facebook, never, never, never, just not
> my thing, even if half the world or probably more are on it! Thanks though.
>
> Jan
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jan Martin
> Sent: Tuesday, 8 June 2010 6:43 p.m.
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
>
> Hi Jan
>
> Not sure if this helps, but I also (until joining the forum) did not have a
> facebook page (and mine is still pretty non-descript) but without logging on
> to facebook, I used the link Ross provided which took me staight to the page.
>
> You could try saving that link to your favourites on Internet Explorer, and
> then just click on that each time you want to check out the page - seems to
> take you straight to it and you have access to all of the soapcraft page, you
> just wouldn't be able to add anything to it, and so long as soapcraft doesn't
> change their security settings you should be fine.
>
> Anyway, worth a try until you decide if you really want your own facebook
> page.
>
> To everyone else, loved the variety of soaps - something to aspire to. :-)
>
> Jan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Jan Abernethy <mailto:janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx>
>
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Sent: 7 June 2010 10:54 AM
>
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
>
> Hi Mandy and others
>
> I¹ve noticed that a lot of people put up photos on Facebook, but I am not on
> Facebook and never get to see any of the photos. Is there any way the photos
> can be attached to these emails for all to see. I¹d love to see some of the
> soap photos.
>
> Regards Jan
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Mandy Coleman
> Sent: Sunday, 6 June 2010 11:08 p.m.
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] photo
>
> Kia ora
>
> I just put a photo on facebook of me at our market this weekend cutting
> soap?and what a great soap it is too I am very happy with it J
>
> Arohanui
>
> Mandy Coleman
>
> Mokihinui Mansions
>
> 36-56 Lewis Street
>
> Mokihinui
>
> RD1 Westport
>
> 037821837
>
> 0273075881
>
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ross Spencer
> Sent: Thursday, 3 June 2010 5:54 p.m.
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
>
> It doesn¹t matter which you use but it will matter when it comes to actually
> using it (preparing it for use)
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Robert & Heather
> Manusauloa
> Sent: Thursday, 3 June 2010 7:03 a.m.
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
>
> Umm. I¹m planning on getting some from Gina....I think hers is water soluble.
> I¹m not sure where to get Oil soluble from. Wouldn¹t have a clue which is best
> to use. With water soluble would it be best to add it to the lye mixture or
> would you still add it after the oils are mixed?
>
> Thanks for your help Ross.
>
> Heather
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ross Spencer
> Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 5:55 PM
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
>
> Lavender won¹t darken so you can use less TD. I would mix up a couple of
> teaspoons and add until the colour looks right. With no darkening oils your
> soap should lighten with curing as well
>
> Do you know if your TD is oil or water soluble?
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Robert & Heather
> Manusauloa
> Sent: Wednesday, 2 June 2010 7:24 a.m.
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
>
> Would like it fairly white. Probably use lavender eo.
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ross Spencer
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 9:09 PM
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
>
> It would depend on how white you want the final result to be and whether you
> are using any fragrance/essential oils that darken the soap
>
> From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Robert & Heather
> Manusauloa
> Sent: Tuesday, 1 June 2010 8:16 p.m.
> To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [soapcraft] Titanium dioxide
>
> Hi All
>
> I¹ve never used Titanium dioxide before. How much would you need for a 1500gm
> batch?
>
> Thanks
>
> Heather
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