[soapcraft] Re: photo
- From: "Jan Abernethy" <janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 08:10:47 +1200
Thanks Louise
That helps heaps. I ordered some colour yesterday so will try that when it
arrives.
Regards Jan
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Louise Shing
Sent: Tuesday, 15 June 2010 10:40 p.m.
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
Hi Jan
You have to act quickly when mixing soap as soon as you get trace you need
to mix in colour and eos and pour. As a beginner I used to always have a
thick trace as had to make sure had trace before pouring. Now after several
months or so (and lots more confidence) I sometimes get a thin trace and
when I pour with thin trace I get a nice smooth top/pattern.
You've used the wrong stuff for colouring cp-soap - cake decorating gel is
for cakes - the colour won't take to cp-soap. I use Gina's colours which
work well, use only about a pinch but mix well first in a little bit of oil
- they are bright colours. If you're more inclined to use natural - Liz (on
the list) sells natural colour - haven't used yet but I intend to try out
alkanet root soon.
Can't use soap straight away as it needs to cure for a minimum of 4 weeks -
shed water, get right PH, etc otherwise might be too harsh on skin.
Cheers
Louise
Nighty night!
on 15/6/10 7:47 AM, Jan Abernethy at janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Hi all
Good luck with your first soap making Jenny. I didn't use any beeswax.
I made mine in the weekend, first time. It's come out quite nice, it only
made 8 soaps so next time I will double or triple the recipe.
My problems were:
I was trying to get a nice colour (but didn't manage to) so by the time I
thought oh well that will do, it was quite thick and not very easy to pour,
so I ended up with pour pattern as you do when you make thick icing. If it
was thinner would I not have got that pattern? I presume so.
What can anyone suggest to get a nice colour and how much to I use. I was
only using a little bit thinking I only need a little bit, but it hardly
made any difference, so I added and added and added and it still didn't make
a huge difference. I used the gel you can get for cake decorating. Also
used Mica which is used to colour lip balm but neither of them seemed to
make much difference. Do I need to add quite a lot or am I using the wrong
stuff? The colours themselves in the containers were very bright but didn't
make much difference when added.
When the soap is made, can it be used straight away? I know it has to
harden but can you also use it straight away?
Regards Jan
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Jenny Holmes
Sent: Monday, 14 June 2010 6:05 p.m.
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
Hi Everyone
Thanks so much for all your replies. I have been away from my computer for
the last day and it has been a very nice surprise to have all your
suggestions and help. It now seems I can go straight ahead and make the
soap.
I think I will make the recipe that Liz suggested and leave out the beeswax
if it doesn't contribute that much. I'll keep you posted as to how I get
on.
Cheers
Jenny
On 13/06/2010, at 1:09 PM, Liz Brook wrote:
Hi Jenny,
1. Yes it is ok to halve the recipe.
2. Yes you can use any type of beeswax - but, and this is just me, I
wouldn't make a soap with beeswax for my very first soap recipe. Beeswax is
an unnecessary fiddly ingredient that you don't need when making soap for
the first time. Also, unlike Gina, I wouldn't use more than 2% - it will
reduce lather.
3. Yes fine to use lavender hydrosol, but as the others have said any good
properties will not carry through to the soap and certainly not the scent.
4. I make lavender soap all the time - it holds up just fine. Make sure
you use a good lavender essential oil and for a recipe that size I would use
40ml - if you halve - 20ml. Having said that, a little patch is lovely with
lavender. No seizing with either.
5. Yes fill to the top - just fine.
Can I suggest another recipe Jenny? I really think for a first soap you
really want things to be as straight forward as they can be.
Olive - 367grams
Coconut - 125 grams
Caustic Soda - 68.grams
Water - 134 grams
Essential oil - 20mls
Purely my suggestion of course - let us know how you get on.
Cheers
Liz
----- Original Message -----
From: JHolmes <mailto:Tinks2@xxxxxxxxxx> <mailto:Tinks2@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [soapcraft] Re: photo
Hi Everyone
Hope you're all gong well. I almost made my first batch of soap yesterday.
I was following the first recipe out of Soap Naturally - Olive & Coconut
Cold Process but found myself putting it off as I've got a couple of
questions. My questions are:
Is it OK to halve recipes or would it be better as a first-timer to keep to
the original receipe?
Is it OK to use cosmetic grade beeswax instead of the unbleached?
Is it OK to use lavender hydrosol as the distilled water. The hydrosol is
actually distilled water but it has residual lavender elements in it.
I've been told that Lav.Ess.Oil doesn't keep it's scent staying power in
soap v. well and its good to add a base note ess.oil to fix it. I was
thinking of adding a little bit of either patchoulli, sandalwood or
cedarwood. I'm wondering if any of those will cause the seizing I've been
reading about.
The last question is - when pouring soap into the mould - can you fill to
the top? or is it going to expand like bread?
I now have a better feeling for Victorian design and have thought it great
to have the stimulation to search out something new. So thanks for
stimulation :)
Jenny
On 9/06/2010, at 5:57 PM, Ross Spencer wrote:
Is anyone else having trouble keeping up with the Jans? J
Ross (not Jan)
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
[mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jan Martin
Sent: Wednesday, 9 June 2010 4:56 p.m.
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
Hi Jan
At least you know what you want (or rather don't want). Good on you, there
are not many people these days who can do the same. :-)
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: Jan Abernethy <mailto:janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: 9 June 2010 8:11 AM
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
Jan
Good idea, thanks for that and if I can't see the pics sometime, then I
can't see the pics.
I will never be interested in going on Facebook, never, never, never, just
not my thing, even if half the world or probably more are on it! Thanks
though.
Jan
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
[mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jan Martin
Sent: Tuesday, 8 June 2010 6:43 p.m.
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
Hi Jan
Not sure if this helps, but I also (until joining the forum) did not have a
facebook page (and mine is still pretty non-descript) but without logging on
to facebook, I used the link Ross provided which took me staight to the
page.
You could try saving that link to your favourites on Internet Explorer, and
then just click on that each time you want to check out the page - seems to
take you straight to it and you have access to all of the soapcraft page,
you just wouldn't be able to add anything to it, and so long as soapcraft
doesn't change their security settings you should be fine.
Anyway, worth a try until you decide if you really want your own facebook
page.
To everyone else, loved the variety of soaps - something to aspire to. :-)
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: Jan Abernethy <mailto:janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:janabernethy@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: 7 June 2010 10:54 AM
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: photo
Hi Mandy and others
I've noticed that a lot of people put up photos on Facebook, but I am not on
Facebook and never get to see any of the photos. Is there any way the
photos can be attached to these emails for all to see. I'd love to see some
of the soap photos.
Regards Jan
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
[mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Mandy Coleman
Sent: Sunday, 6 June 2010 11:08 p.m.
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] photo
Kia ora
I just put a photo on facebook of me at our market this weekend cutting
soap.and what a great soap it is too I am very happy with it J
Arohanui
Mandy Coleman
Mokihinui Mansions
36-56 Lewis Street
Mokihinui
RD1 Westport
037821837
0273075881
_____
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
[mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ross Spencer
Sent: Thursday, 3 June 2010 5:54 p.m.
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
It doesn't matter which you use but it will matter when it comes to actually
using it (preparing it for use)
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
[mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Robert & Heather
Manusauloa
Sent: Thursday, 3 June 2010 7:03 a.m.
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
Umm. I'm planning on getting some from Gina....I think hers is water
soluble. I'm not sure where to get Oil soluble from. Wouldn't have a clue
which is best to use. With water soluble would it be best to add it to the
lye mixture or would you still add it after the oils are mixed?
Thanks for your help Ross.
Heather
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
[mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ross Spencer
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 5:55 PM
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
Lavender won't darken so you can use less TD. I would mix up a couple of
teaspoons and add until the colour looks right. With no darkening oils your
soap should lighten with curing as well
Do you know if your TD is oil or water soluble?
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
[mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Robert & Heather
Manusauloa
Sent: Wednesday, 2 June 2010 7:24 a.m.
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
Would like it fairly white. Probably use lavender eo.
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
[mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ross Spencer
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 9:09 PM
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Re: Titanium dioxide
It would depend on how white you want the final result to be and whether you
are using any fragrance/essential oils that darken the soap
From: soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
[mailto:soapcraft-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Robert & Heather
Manusauloa
Sent: Tuesday, 1 June 2010 8:16 p.m.
To: soapcraft@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [soapcraft] Titanium dioxide
Hi All
I've never used Titanium dioxide before. How much would you need for a
1500gm batch?
Thanks
Heather
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