[ SHOWGSD-L ] Re: showgsd-l Digest V2 #1430

  • From: XcaliburFarm@xxxxxxx
  • To: showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 10:39:41 EDT

I have never heard it put that way but I had a laughing fit when I imagined  
all the birds calling one another that the 'new decorator' had arrived and was 
 setting out 'her wares' for all to pick up a free sample'. LOL  -  Debbie
 
 
In a message dated 6/6/2008 9:54:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
showgsd-l Digest    Fri, 06 Jun 2008    Volume:  02  Issue: 1430

In This Issue:
#1:     From: InquestGSD@xxxxxxx
Subject:  Coats
#2:    From: InquestGSD@xxxxxxx
Subject: OT: Patagonian Conure
#3:   From: Pinehillgsds@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:  ] Re: Feeding puppies - weaning now worming
#4:     From: XcaliburFarm@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:  showgsd-l Digest V2 #1428
#5:    From: "Maureen"  <murk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ] Re:  Feeding puppies - weaning now worming
#6:    From:  XcaliburFarm@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: showgsd-l  Digest V2 #1428
#7:    From:  XcaliburFarm@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: showgsd-l  Digest V2  #1427

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Msg:  #1 in digest
From: InquestGSD@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 08:49:53  EDT
Subject: Coats

Its been interesting reading all these post about  coats.

Here, we always have more hair than the average bear, and  because of  that  
my dogs are always looking a little fuller  than the rest. At nearly  12, TJ 
has 
so much hair, when I groomed him  on Sunday you could hear all the  birds in 
the neighborhood getting  ready to "redecorate".  When he was  showing I had 
to 
keep a  close eye on his weight, or he would look fat when he  really  wasnt.

The standards defines what a correct coat is and that's what we  should be  
looking for, but quite frankly, open, close, full or  shedding, please bring 
your 
dogs to the ring  CLEAN.

Ileana


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------------------------------

Msg:  #2 in digest
From: InquestGSD@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 08:53:02  EDT
Subject: OT: Patagonian Conure

I've been fostering a little 7  weeks old Patagonian Conure, and I'm  
seriously considering keeping  him. Never thought I would have another bird, 
but  this 
little fellow  reminds me (now you will be sure I am crazy) of my now gone  
long  coated-sable Mr Beef. 

Does anyone has any experience with this kind of  bird?  I believe they  were 
reclassified from parrot to conure,  and are from Argentina.

Thanks in advance for any  info.

Ileana


**************Get trade secrets for amazing  burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
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------------------------------

Msg:  #3 in digest
From: Pinehillgsds@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 09:00:40  EDT
Subject: Re: ] Re: Feeding puppies - weaning now worming

It  would be unusual for an adult dog to be symptomatic although coccidia   
can 
be found in the GI tract in all dogs..  A dog builds up immunity  at +/1  6 
months.  I suppose if one had a dog with a weakened  immune  system....

Did you know cats shed an awful lot of the  spores?  Birds aren't the  only 
culprits.  Wherever you  find cats....

I send a flyer home w/ all puppy buyers, and if anyone  who is getting a new  
puppy has cats, I make sure they know their vet  will most likely RX albon, 
since  their soil will be laden w/ the  oocysts, and the puppy won't have 
immunity 
at 8  weeks.  It  avoids a lot of distraught calls <G>.

Kathy, member GSDCA,  DVGSDC
Celebrating generations of Dual Titled TC'd  Champions
visit  www.geocities.com/pinehillgsds  


In a message dated 6/6/2008  8:51:07 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
myjoygs@xxxxxxx  writes:

has  anyone ever had adult dogs get cocci especially if  your on a farm or in 
an  area with lots of   birds?





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------------------------------

Msg:  #4 in digest
From: XcaliburFarm@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 09:33:55  EDT
Subject: Re: showgsd-l Digest V2 #1428



In a message  dated 6/6/2008 2:34:02 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,   
Showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

showgsd-l Digest    Fri,  06 Jun 2008    Volume:  02  Issue: 1428

In This  Issue:
#1:     From: Lacy340@xxxxxxx
Subject:   Worming
#2:    From: DestinoGS1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: long coat  revision to the standard by  FV
#3:    From: "Carolyn  Martello"  <marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:  Long  Coat vs Dry Coat
#4:    From:  Elsyd1@xxxxxxx
Subject:  Re:   Worming

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Msg:   #1 in digest
From: Lacy340@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 00:38:37   EDT
Subject: Worming

when do you start worming pups.  Mine  are  4 weeks old and on Formula,  Raw 
hamburger and rice cereal  and a  little water to wash it down. 


**************Get trade  secrets for  amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on  AOL Food.     
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------------------------------

Msg:   #2 in digest
From: DestinoGS1@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008  00:56:54  EDT
Subject: Re: long coat revision to the standard by  FV

I don't  understand what the problem is.  If the SV does  accept the  "stock  
coat" now into the system, whats' the big  deal?  The coat gene  is  very 
simple 
and easy to  control in a breeding program.  The  worst problem  is that  
usually 
the best structured puppy in the  litter is the long coat  and  most judges 
will 
not award it the  points.  Pick  your best puppy based on  structure, if it 
is 
a  long coat just  breed her to a male that does not carry  the gene for the  
long  coats.  

JMO,

Mary 


In a message dated   6/5/2008 3:07:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,   
cnnpmm2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx  writes:
Carolyn  & Norma No L,  The long *stock* coat is not a  problem as the outer
coat  is  *not* silky.  It is the same coarse  texture as that found on   a
normal coated dog.  Also, a dog with  a stock coat does have  an  undercoat.
This is the definition of a  stock  coat.

I'm betting most  people on this list have not come in   contact with a true
long stock-coated  dog.  Having owned  German  & German crosses for a long
time, I've  known many  such dogs and  their hardiness has been "field 
tested."

In   case you guys missed  my earlier post on this subject, I've  included  it
below.  BTW,  I'm *not* advocating the approval  of the true long  coat for
just the  reasons Carolyn  mentioned.  Anyhow, here's what I  wrote in   that
post...

I wish the long stock coat would be accepted   by  our Standard and not
considered a fault.  I have owned both  the   true long coat, i.e. soft, silky
outer coat & no  undercoat and the  long  stock coat.  The long stock coat  is
exactly like the  standard coat -  coarse outer coat with the  typical
undercoat.   Only longer.

My  dog with the  true long coat had skin  problems.  He was harder to dry,   
but
the main problem was that  silky outer coat.  It seemed  to pick up  dust like
one of those  magnetic dust mops, and  everything got tangled up in  his coat.
Burrs,  leaves, twigs,  you name it!  Burrs were the worse  because they had  
 
to
be cut out.  We live in the woods, so I don't ever  want  to  own another true
long coat.

My long stock coat  experienced   none of these problems, and would have no
trouble  doing field  work.   Plus, a dog with a long stock coat is  often
*very*  pleasing to the  eye.


Paulette McGuirt,  GSDCA  Member
Allemande German Shepherd  Dogs
Qui Me Amat,  Amat et Canem  Meam

----- Original Message -----  
From:  "Carolyn Martello"  <marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To:   <gsdramey@xxxxxxx>;  <grnram415@xxxxxxx>;    <denwil2007@xxxxxxxxx>;
<showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent:    Thursday, June 05, 2008 2:04 PM
Subject: [ SHOWGSD-L ] Re: long  coat   revision to the standard by FV


Everything is minor  until you have  a  problem with it.   <G>
Try  getting the velcro  stickers or  fox tails out of a silky coat  when
you've had it out  herding or working in  a field or in  Search and Rescue
dog in a  disaster setting.
Also try  drying  and getting out the snow balls that  has frozen to the hair
of  an  avalance dog.     Let a  blind person try to deal  with any of  it.
Incorrect coats do not repel  water but the  harsh double coat  will.  Two
shakes and they're  almost  dry....<G>
It's all a  fault for a reason is all I'm   saying.    It's a Standard for   a
working,
herding,   service dog.    It's really  NOT  about personal taste.
The  only one I can't see a reason for  other than  appearances is the  light
eye........?

I love  our Standard and our  Breed...... {  :o)


Carolyn   marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.Marhaven.com


-----  Original  Message  ----- 
From: Norma Ramey
To:  marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx  ;  grnram415@xxxxxxx ;  denwil2007@xxxxxxxxx   ;
showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent:  Thursday, June 05, 2008 6:01   AM
Subject: [ SHOWGSD-L ] Re: long  coat revision to the standard by   FV


Carolyn has brought  up some goodies - but - the   differences (small IMHO)
in
the  actual
coat coarseness,  fine  silkiness, length, etc. really are  minor
differences.
Like  so  many
other things, individual  tastes prevail anyway.  I  learned  in studying an
animal  encyclopedia
as as a young  Whippersnapper  that the Poodle coat  & clips were  important
for
what  they
originally  did.  (A German  breed, BTW; hunt and  retrieve)!  The  stickers &
foxtails  etc.
would only  adhere to the outer  protective fur and not the dog  as in  a
short
coated  one)
Also, the thickness repelled  the water  easily.  I  feel more is better, but
thatsa me and   the
fantastic  undercoat of our GSDs truly IS an insulation to heat   &  cold
times.
Norma no L
----- Original Message  -----   
From: "Carolyn Martello"   <marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To:  <grnram415@xxxxxxx>;   <denwil2007@xxxxxxxxx>;   
<showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent:  Thursday, June 05, 2008  12:08  AM
Subject: [ SHOWGSD-L ] Re: long  coat revision to the  standard by  FV
It is a "fault".....no matter  how awesome their  structure...but so  are
soft
coats & open  coats.
There  are different types of  long coats......but they are   still
"coats"......and they are all  a
problem when you  live  in the Country where there are stickers, fox  tails,
a
lot of   dirt,  or
out in the field herding and  working.   Even snow balls up on their coats
and  sticks.
We've  all  had 'coats' that are  really nice....but I  wouldn't  show
one........too much effort just
to get a good dog or a  great  dog  shown without wasting time and money    on
a
coated  one.
You can already show them at AKC shows as  long  as they are not  trimmed.
They are mentioned in our   Standard........and considered a  fault of the
coat!    <G>.
Why change  now?
The GSDCA, Inc.    doesn't  decide what we can show or  not show.
If you have an AKC  registered  dog you can show it......it  can even   have
disqualifying
faults....( it's your entry  fee to throw  away  )   you just will either
lose
or be   disqualified.  <G>

I sure hope we don't start  tinkering  with our Standard  to fit coat faults?
We have a  great
Breed......and a great Breed  Standard.   Why would we  want to  start
splitting it into  varities
of coats and colors  and  light eyes, and dark eyes, and  blacks and  sables
etc.
This  is a working / herding breed and there  is a  definite reason a  long
coat
is not desired.
Though a   beautiful   Breed  ( as long as we stay vigilant ) .our   Standard
addresses  the best
qualities for easy maintenance and  all  aspects of a working  dog, service
dog
and a  herding
dog  (  again, as  long as we stay vigilant )   whether it is the coat,  the
feet or  even  the  long
saber tail for  balance.
JMO
Carolyn      marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.Marhaven.com


============================================================================
POST    is Copyrighted 2007.  All material remains the property of the  
original  
author and of GSD Communication, Inc. NO REPRODUCTIONS  or FORWARDS of any  
kind  are permitted without prior permission  of the original  author  AND of 
the  
Showgsd-l  Management. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.  

ALL PERSONS ARE ON NOTICE   THAT THE FORWARDING, REPRODUCTION OR  USE IN ANY 
MANNER OF ANY  MATERIAL WHICH  APPEARS ON SHOWGSD-L WITHOUT  THE EXPRESS  
PERMISSION OF ALL PARTIES TO THE POST  AND THE LIST  MANAGEMENT  IS EXPRESSLY 
FORBIDDEN, 
AND IS A VIOLATION OF LAW.    VIOLATORS OF THIS PROHIBITION WILL BE 
PROSECUTED. 

For   assistance,  please contact the List Management at   admin@xxxxxxxxxxxx

VISIT OUR  WEBSITE -    www.showgsd.org
============================================================================




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------------------------------

Msg:   #3 in digest
From: "Carolyn Martello"   <marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Long Coat vs Dry  Coat
Date:  Thu, 5 Jun 2008 22:30:11 -0700

I don't think the  slick coat or dry type  is looked upon badly so much as it 
just does  
not "accentuate the  positive"  for the dog.      None of us want to show our 
 
dogs out 
of coat for just that  reason.......same look......no beautiful  
accentuations.    
Same with a long coat.....it isn't that it's a  serious fault  according to 
the Standard,
but catches the eye of the judge   immediately.    They don't even need to 
look for  
it.......it  smacks them in the eye as the dog comes in the  ring.   
For some  judges it's a bi-color that affects them  the same way....or a 
black 
or  even
sable....or a bad back.   They see it as the dog is  coming in the ring and 
if  they 
don't like that........you just threw away  an entry  fee.   <G>
Now a missing tooth,   or not   good feet or a loose hock is often not picked 
up on 
until the  individual  exam.......and later in movement the dog can be so  
impressive in
outline,  and appearance and sidegait, etc. that the  judge can "forget"  
what 
they  and
ring side cannot see  easily every time it goes around the   
ring.................<G>
Judges have to make decisions.....they  don't  have all the time in the world 
to think 
it over and  compare over and  over.......or contemplate whether to use it 
for  
breeding
like we do when we  have the dog in our yard and see  things we like about 
it. 
They  
have a lot of things and a  lot of dogs to think about and must make a  
decision.
We all KNOW  what we like about our dogs when we make a decision  to enter 
them  
in a show.......but we cannot expect every judge to agree  with OUR  
preference.  <G>

Now if you think about   it.....normally we are all showing some very good 
dogs....thats
why  we  drove hundreds of miles to show under a judge.   I think I  would 
not  
be happy
if a judge put a long coat up for a major with  all the quality  animals 
being 
show with
perfect   coats..............JMO.

Carolyn      marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.Marhaven.com
----- Original Message   ----- 
From: grnram415@xxxxxxx To: Showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent:   Thursday, June 
05, 
2008 11:54 AM
Subject: [ SHOWGSD-L ] Long Coat  vs  Dry Coat


Gosh, I never realized this thread would go  so  crazy.? Lots of good 
information and opinions.? So, I have  another side to  this.? Dry coats.? 
They seem to 
be faulted in the  ring as well.? I know that  folks do major grooming jobs 
on 
their  dogs, getting them all fluffed up for  the ring.? I have done this  
myself.? The only thing is they will stay fluffy  for about 10 mins  and be 
flat 
when they get in the ring.? That is not to say  these  dogs don't have 
undercoat.? They do and I can prove it when they  blow  coat and their runs 
look like 
they are covered in dog hair  snow.? I can't  believe how much coat they can 
blow.
So, my question  is this.? The  Standard?states: "The outer coat should be as 
dense as  possible."? Now, if the  outer coat is very dense, then it SHOULD  
close up to protect the undercoat  from wet and cold.? Yet, why is a  dry 
coat 
looked at badly?? Or,?am I totally  off base as to what  a?true dry coat is?? 
And, 
if I am wrong, then I would  appreciate  some grooming advice on how to keep 
these dogs with great  undercoats  and short, dense outer coats, fluffy for 
more 
than 10 mins   :-)

Laura   Thomas???




------------------------------

Msg: #4  in  digest
From: Elsyd1@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008  02:29:21  EDT
Subject: Re: Worming

Puppies are born with  roundworm  infestation...(90%, according to University 
 
of  California Davis). At  two weeks the roundworms start migrating. At 3 -  
4  
weeks they  migrate to lungs,(pneumonia) stomach,(vomiting  them up, inhaling 
 

them, pneumonia) eyes, (potential blindness)  and other organs,  before  
making 
their way back to the  intestines. Recommended protocol  is to worm with  
Pyrantal  
Pamoate at two weeks, and once a week  thereafter until two months,  and  
then 
every two weeks until 3 months  old, when a natural  immunity manifests  
itself. 
After that, once a  month.  Allowing puppies to go unwormed past two weeks  
is 
very   dangerous, and is a frequent cause of roundworm pneumonia, which  is   
usually fatal in puppies. A friend recently waited until 4  weeks to worm  
her 

pups, (Maltese), I told her to worm them   immediately. They  were FULL of  
huge 
roundworms, and these  pups weighed like 3 lbs. She  was lucky the worms had  
not  
killed them. I was advised at my first  litter to worm at 4 weeks,  and I 
lost 

two pups to roundworm  pneumonia before they were ever  wormed. Please, list, 
 
start worming  your puppies at two weeks,  and once a week thereafter.  When  
 
puppies die for  seemingly no reason, worms are sometimes the reason.  
Besides  
all  
the other horrors, starvation is also a very possible   reason. Syd




In a message dated 6/5/2008 9:56:19 P.M.   Pacific Daylight Time,  
Lacy340@xxxxxxx writes:
when do   you  start worming pups.  Mine are 4 weeks old and on Formula,   
Raw  

hamburger and rice cereal and a little water to wash it  down.   


**************Get trade secrets for amazing  burgers. Watch   "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL  Food.         
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


============================================================================
POST    is Copyrighted 2007.  All material remains the property of the  
original  
author and of GSD Communication, Inc. NO REPRODUCTIONS  or FORWARDS of any  
kind  are permitted without prior permission  of the original  author  AND of 
the  
Showgsd-l  Management. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.  

ALL PERSONS ARE ON NOTICE   THAT THE FORWARDING, REPRODUCTION OR  USE IN ANY 
MANNER OF ANY  MATERIAL WHICH  APPEARS ON SHOWGSD-L WITHOUT  THE EXPRESS  
PERMISSION OF ALL PARTIES TO THE POST  AND THE LIST  MANAGEMENT  IS EXPRESSLY 
FORBIDDEN, 
AND IS A VIOLATION OF LAW.    VIOLATORS OF THIS PROHIBITION WILL BE 
PROSECUTED. 

For   assistance,  please contact the List Management at   admin@xxxxxxxxxxxx

VISIT OUR  WEBSITE -    www.showgsd.org
============================================================================




**************Get   trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence"  on  AOL Food.        
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------------------------------

End   of showgsd-l Digest V2   #1428
********************************






**************Get  trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on  AOL Food.       
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------------------------------

Msg:  #5 in digest
From: "Maureen" <murk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ]  Re: Feeding puppies - weaning now worming
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 08:36:24  -0500

My vet says any where livestock has ever grazed is full of  cocci........and 
then birds on top of that! Mo

> has anyone ever  had adult dogs get cocci especially if your on a farm or 
> in an area  with lots of birds?
>
>  


------------------------------

Msg: #6 in digest
From:  XcaliburFarm@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 09:44:34 EDT
Subject: Re:  showgsd-l Digest V2 #1428

Another recommendation is to use Panacur.  Using for one day every other wk  
and then at eight wks we use it for  a 3 day period/series, repeat this at 10 
 & 
12 wks. This wormer  is very efficient and does a more thorough job when  
used 
to get all  the worms. Pyrantel Pamoate is a safer wormer and can be used at  
2  wks of age (also called Strongid) with a wider range of safety so you can  
worm  to an approximate weight rather than more accurate one. The  best 
advice is 
to ck  with your local vet to see what they recommend  for your area. We also 
worm and  boost the immunizations on our  bitches in whelp to decrease the 
amount of worms  being passed to the  pups and to boost their antibodies. 
Again, 
this is our vet's   recommendations and it seems to benefit our particular 
program. Down here  in  Florida, we never get a long enough period of 
freezing 
weather to  circumvent our  spreading of diseases so as soon as the 
bitch/maternal  
antibodies begin to taper  off in the pups, they are more inclined to  catch 
one 
of the most  prevalent...distemper or parvo. We do not use  Lepto on a first 
vaccination.  Generally the mom's antibodies wear  off at about 6 wk. but we 
have 
found we can  begin vaccs at eight wks  if pups are raised inside and there 
are no dogs coming  on and off  the premises. Hope this helps, Debbie


In a message dated 6/6/2008  2:34:02 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx  writes:
showgsd-l Digest    Fri, 06 Jun 2008     Volume:  02  Issue: 1428

In This Issue:
#1:   From: Lacy340@xxxxxxx
Subject:  Worming
#2:   From: DestinoGS1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: long coat revision to the  standard by  FV
#3:    From: "Carolyn Martello"   <marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:  Long Coat vs Dry  Coat
#4:    From:  Elsyd1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:   Worming

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Msg:   #1 in digest
From: Lacy340@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 00:38:37   EDT
Subject: Worming

when do you start worming pups.  Mine  are  4 weeks old and on Formula,  Raw 
hamburger and rice cereal  and a  little water to wash it down. 


**************Get trade  secrets for  amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on  AOL Food.     
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)



------------------------------

Msg:   #2 in digest
From: DestinoGS1@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008  00:56:54  EDT
Subject: Re: long coat revision to the standard by  FV

I don't  understand what the problem is.  If the SV does  accept the  "stock  
coat" now into the system, whats' the big  deal?  The coat gene  is  very 
simple 
and easy to  control in a breeding program.  The  worst problem  is that  
usually 
the best structured puppy in the  litter is the long coat  and  most judges 
will 
not award it the  points.  Pick  your best puppy based on  structure, if it 
is 
a  long coat just  breed her to a male that does not carry  the gene for the  
long  coats.  

JMO,

Mary 


In a message dated   6/5/2008 3:07:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,   
cnnpmm2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx  writes:
Carolyn  & Norma No L,  The long *stock* coat is not a  problem as the outer
coat  is  *not* silky.  It is the same coarse  texture as that found on   a
normal coated dog.  Also, a dog with  a stock coat does have  an  undercoat.
This is the definition of a  stock  coat.

I'm betting most  people on this list have not come in   contact with a true
long stock-coated  dog.  Having owned  German  & German crosses for a long
time, I've  known many  such dogs and  their hardiness has been "field 
tested."

In   case you guys missed  my earlier post on this subject, I've  included  it
below.  BTW,  I'm *not* advocating the approval  of the true long  coat for
just the  reasons Carolyn  mentioned.  Anyhow, here's what I  wrote in   that
post...

I wish the long stock coat would be accepted   by  our Standard and not
considered a fault.  I have owned both  the   true long coat, i.e. soft, silky
outer coat & no  undercoat and the  long  stock coat.  The long stock coat  is
exactly like the  standard coat -  coarse outer coat with the  typical
undercoat.   Only longer.

My  dog with the  true long coat had skin  problems.  He was harder to dry,   
but
the main problem was that  silky outer coat.  It seemed  to pick up  dust like
one of those  magnetic dust mops, and  everything got tangled up in  his coat.
Burrs,  leaves, twigs,  you name it!  Burrs were the worse  because they had  
 
to
be cut out.  We live in the woods, so I don't ever  want  to  own another true
long coat.

My long stock coat  experienced   none of these problems, and would have no
trouble  doing field  work.   Plus, a dog with a long stock coat is  often
*very*  pleasing to the  eye.


Paulette McGuirt,  GSDCA  Member
Allemande German Shepherd  Dogs
Qui Me Amat,  Amat et Canem  Meam

----- Original Message -----  
From:  "Carolyn Martello"  <marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To:   <gsdramey@xxxxxxx>;  <grnram415@xxxxxxx>;    <denwil2007@xxxxxxxxx>;
<showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent:    Thursday, June 05, 2008 2:04 PM
Subject: [ SHOWGSD-L ] Re: long  coat   revision to the standard by FV


Everything is minor  until you have  a  problem with it.   <G>
Try  getting the velcro  stickers or  fox tails out of a silky coat  when
you've had it out  herding or working in  a field or in  Search and Rescue
dog in a  disaster setting.
Also try  drying  and getting out the snow balls that  has frozen to the hair
of  an  avalance dog.     Let a  blind person try to deal  with any of  it.
Incorrect coats do not repel  water but the  harsh double coat  will.  Two
shakes and they're  almost  dry....<G>
It's all a  fault for a reason is all I'm   saying.    It's a Standard for   a
working,
herding,   service dog.    It's really  NOT  about personal taste.
The  only one I can't see a reason for  other than  appearances is the  light
eye........?

I love  our Standard and our  Breed...... {  :o)


Carolyn   marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.Marhaven.com


-----  Original  Message  ----- 
From: Norma Ramey
To:  marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx  ;  grnram415@xxxxxxx ;  denwil2007@xxxxxxxxx   ;
showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent:  Thursday, June 05, 2008 6:01   AM
Subject: [ SHOWGSD-L ] Re: long  coat revision to the standard by   FV


Carolyn has brought  up some goodies - but - the   differences (small IMHO)
in
the  actual
coat coarseness,  fine  silkiness, length, etc. really are  minor
differences.
Like  so  many
other things, individual  tastes prevail anyway.  I  learned  in studying an
animal  encyclopedia
as as a young  Whippersnapper  that the Poodle coat  & clips were  important
for
what  they
originally  did.  (A German  breed, BTW; hunt and  retrieve)!  The  stickers &
foxtails  etc.
would only  adhere to the outer  protective fur and not the dog  as in  a
short
coated  one)
Also, the thickness repelled  the water  easily.  I  feel more is better, but
thatsa me and   the
fantastic  undercoat of our GSDs truly IS an insulation to heat   &  cold
times.
Norma no L
----- Original Message  -----   
From: "Carolyn Martello"   <marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To:  <grnram415@xxxxxxx>;   <denwil2007@xxxxxxxxx>;   
<showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent:  Thursday, June 05, 2008  12:08  AM
Subject: [ SHOWGSD-L ] Re: long  coat revision to the  standard by  FV
It is a "fault".....no matter  how awesome their  structure...but so  are
soft
coats & open  coats.
There  are different types of  long coats......but they are   still
"coats"......and they are all  a
problem when you  live  in the Country where there are stickers, fox  tails,
a
lot of   dirt,  or
out in the field herding and  working.   Even snow balls up on their coats
and  sticks.
We've  all  had 'coats' that are  really nice....but I  wouldn't  show
one........too much effort just
to get a good dog or a  great  dog  shown without wasting time and money    on
a
coated  one.
You can already show them at AKC shows as  long  as they are not  trimmed.
They are mentioned in our   Standard........and considered a  fault of the
coat!    <G>.
Why change  now?
The GSDCA, Inc.    doesn't  decide what we can show or  not show.
If you have an AKC  registered  dog you can show it......it  can even   have
disqualifying
faults....( it's your entry  fee to throw  away  )   you just will either
lose
or be   disqualified.  <G>

I sure hope we don't start  tinkering  with our Standard  to fit coat faults?
We have a  great
Breed......and a great Breed  Standard.   Why would we  want to  start
splitting it into  varities
of coats and colors  and  light eyes, and dark eyes, and  blacks and  sables
etc.
This  is a working / herding breed and there  is a  definite reason a  long
coat
is not desired.
Though a   beautiful   Breed  ( as long as we stay vigilant ) .our   Standard
addresses  the best
qualities for easy maintenance and  all  aspects of a working  dog, service
dog
and a  herding
dog  (  again, as  long as we stay vigilant )   whether it is the coat,  the
feet or  even  the  long
saber tail for  balance.
JMO
Carolyn      marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.Marhaven.com


============================================================================
POST    is Copyrighted 2007.  All material remains the property of the  
original  
author and of GSD Communication, Inc. NO REPRODUCTIONS  or FORWARDS of any  
kind  are permitted without prior permission  of the original  author  AND of 
the  
Showgsd-l  Management. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.  

ALL PERSONS ARE ON NOTICE   THAT THE FORWARDING, REPRODUCTION OR  USE IN ANY 
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PERMISSION OF ALL PARTIES TO THE POST  AND THE LIST  MANAGEMENT  IS EXPRESSLY 
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AND IS A VIOLATION OF LAW.    VIOLATORS OF THIS PROHIBITION WILL BE 
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For   assistance,  please contact the List Management at   admin@xxxxxxxxxxxx

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------------------------------

Msg:   #3 in digest
From: "Carolyn Martello"   <marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Long Coat vs Dry  Coat
Date:  Thu, 5 Jun 2008 22:30:11 -0700

I don't think the  slick coat or dry type  is looked upon badly so much as it 
just does  
not "accentuate the  positive"  for the dog.      None of us want to show our 
 
dogs out 
of coat for just that  reason.......same look......no beautiful  
accentuations.    
Same with a long coat.....it isn't that it's a  serious fault  according to 
the Standard,
but catches the eye of the judge   immediately.    They don't even need to 
look for  
it.......it  smacks them in the eye as the dog comes in the  ring.   
For some  judges it's a bi-color that affects them  the same way....or a 
black 
or  even
sable....or a bad back.   They see it as the dog is  coming in the ring and 
if  they 
don't like that........you just threw away  an entry  fee.   <G>
Now a missing tooth,   or not   good feet or a loose hock is often not picked 
up on 
until the  individual  exam.......and later in movement the dog can be so  
impressive in
outline,  and appearance and sidegait, etc. that the  judge can "forget"  
what 
they  and
ring side cannot see  easily every time it goes around the   
ring.................<G>
Judges have to make decisions.....they  don't  have all the time in the world 
to think 
it over and  compare over and  over.......or contemplate whether to use it 
for  
breeding
like we do when we  have the dog in our yard and see  things we like about 
it. 
They  
have a lot of things and a  lot of dogs to think about and must make a  
decision.
We all KNOW  what we like about our dogs when we make a decision  to enter 
them  
in a show.......but we cannot expect every judge to agree  with OUR  
preference.  <G>

Now if you think about   it.....normally we are all showing some very good 
dogs....thats
why  we  drove hundreds of miles to show under a judge.   I think I  would 
not  
be happy
if a judge put a long coat up for a major with  all the quality  animals 
being 
show with
perfect   coats..............JMO.

Carolyn      marhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.Marhaven.com
----- Original Message   ----- 
From: grnram415@xxxxxxx To: Showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent:   Thursday, June 
05, 
2008 11:54 AM
Subject: [ SHOWGSD-L ] Long Coat  vs  Dry Coat


Gosh, I never realized this thread would go  so  crazy.? Lots of good 
information and opinions.? So, I have  another side to  this.? Dry coats.? 
They seem to 
be faulted in the  ring as well.? I know that  folks do major grooming jobs 
on 
their  dogs, getting them all fluffed up for  the ring.? I have done this  
myself.? The only thing is they will stay fluffy  for about 10 mins  and be 
flat 
when they get in the ring.? That is not to say  these  dogs don't have 
undercoat.? They do and I can prove it when they  blow  coat and their runs 
look like 
they are covered in dog hair  snow.? I can't  believe how much coat they can 
blow.
So, my question  is this.? The  Standard?states: "The outer coat should be as 
dense as  possible."? Now, if the  outer coat is very dense, then it SHOULD  
close up to protect the undercoat  from wet and cold.? Yet, why is a  dry 
coat 
looked at badly?? Or,?am I totally  off base as to what  a?true dry coat is?? 
And, 
if I am wrong, then I would  appreciate  some grooming advice on how to keep 
these dogs with great  undercoats  and short, dense outer coats, fluffy for 
more 
than 10 mins   :-)

Laura   Thomas???




------------------------------

Msg: #4  in  digest
From: Elsyd1@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008  02:29:21  EDT
Subject: Re: Worming

Puppies are born with  roundworm  infestation...(90%, according to University 
 
of  California Davis). At  two weeks the roundworms start migrating. At 3 -  
4  
weeks they  migrate to lungs,(pneumonia) stomach,(vomiting  them up, inhaling 
 

them, pneumonia) eyes, (potential blindness)  and other organs,  before  
making 
their way back to the  intestines. Recommended protocol  is to worm with  
Pyrantal  
Pamoate at two weeks, and once a week  thereafter until two months,  and  
then 
every two weeks until 3 months  old, when a natural  immunity manifests  
itself. 
After that, once a  month.  Allowing puppies to go unwormed past two weeks  
is 
very   dangerous, and is a frequent cause of roundworm pneumonia, which  is   
usually fatal in puppies. A friend recently waited until 4  weeks to worm  
her 

pups, (Maltese), I told her to worm them   immediately. They  were FULL of  
huge 
roundworms, and these  pups weighed like 3 lbs. She  was lucky the worms had  
not  
killed them. I was advised at my first  litter to worm at 4 weeks,  and I 
lost 

two pups to roundworm  pneumonia before they were ever  wormed. Please, list, 
 
start worming  your puppies at two weeks,  and once a week thereafter.  When  
 
puppies die for  seemingly no reason, worms are sometimes the reason.  
Besides  
all  
the other horrors, starvation is also a very possible   reason. Syd




In a message dated 6/5/2008 9:56:19 P.M.   Pacific Daylight Time,  
Lacy340@xxxxxxx writes:
when do   you  start worming pups.  Mine are 4 weeks old and on Formula,   
Raw  

hamburger and rice cereal and a little water to wash it  down.   


**************Get trade secrets for amazing  burgers. Watch   "Cooking with 
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============================================================================
POST    is Copyrighted 2007.  All material remains the property of the  
original  
author and of GSD Communication, Inc. NO REPRODUCTIONS  or FORWARDS of any  
kind  are permitted without prior permission  of the original  author  AND of 
the  
Showgsd-l  Management. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.  

ALL PERSONS ARE ON NOTICE   THAT THE FORWARDING, REPRODUCTION OR  USE IN ANY 
MANNER OF ANY  MATERIAL WHICH  APPEARS ON SHOWGSD-L WITHOUT  THE EXPRESS  
PERMISSION OF ALL PARTIES TO THE POST  AND THE LIST  MANAGEMENT  IS EXPRESSLY 
FORBIDDEN, 
AND IS A VIOLATION OF LAW.    VIOLATORS OF THIS PROHIBITION WILL BE 
PROSECUTED. 

For   assistance,  please contact the List Management at   admin@xxxxxxxxxxxx

VISIT OUR  WEBSITE -    www.showgsd.org
============================================================================




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------------------------------

End   of showgsd-l Digest V2   #1428
********************************






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Tyler Florence" on  AOL Food.       
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------------------------------

Msg:  #7 in digest
From: XcaliburFarm@xxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 09:53:20  EDT
Subject: Re: showgsd-l Digest V2 #1427

Sue, we live in an area  where there have been cattle for years and since we  
have well water,  there is a higher incidence of giardia as well coccidia. We 
 
deal  with coccidia on a regular basis and yes, it is strange that the cocci  
 
shows up after the pups are free of other worms from the wormings. I now  
take a 
ziploc baggie, place my 


In a message dated 6/5/2008  11:16:52 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx  writes:
showgsd-l Digest    Thu, 05 Jun 2008     Volume:  02  Issue: 1427

In This Issue:
#1:   From: Bubblebird6@xxxxxxx
Subject:  adult  dog  wanted to adopt
#2:    From:  SallyHH31@xxxxxxx
Subject:  Re: Feeding puppies  - weaning
#3:    From: Kate  Syssoloff  <rockannand@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Feeding   puppies - weaning
#4:    From: Penny & Bill   <Ketchy@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: feeding  puppies
#5:   From: "Maureen"  <murk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:   Feeding puppies - weaning
#6:    From: "Maureen"   <murk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:  feeding puppies
#7:   From: "Maureen"  <murk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Someone  is  having a Birthday
#8:    From: "Arcturus"   <Arcturus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ] Re:  Feeding puppies -  weaning now worming
#9:    From:  Ams  <shutter45@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:  Someone is having a  Birthday
#10:    From: Terry  Cochran  <fairway97045@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject:  Re: ] Re: Feeding puppies -  weaning now worming
#11:   From: DOGSRLUV@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:  ]  Re: Feeding puppies - weaning now worming
#12:      From: Pinehillgsds@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Feeding  puppies -   weaning

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Msg:   #1 in digest
From: Bubblebird6@xxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008  20:09:59  EDT
Subject:  adult dog wanted to adopt

I know  someone looking  to adopt a adult GSD.....The dog must  be kid proof  
and house  trained.......He has grand kids 9 and 7, and   his  elderly mother 
 
lives with him too.....The dog would of  course live inside and  have  a nice 
fenced 
in yard......He  is willing to pay an adoption fee.....He  has  had GSD's and 
is  familiar with the breed.......It would be a  forever home.....He   lives 
in 
NJ.....Please email me  privately....Thank  You....Debbie  Muschio


**************Get  trade secrets  for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on  AOL  Food.        
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------------------------------

Msg:   #2 in digest
From: SallyHH31@xxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008  20:33:15  EDT
Subject: Re: Feeding puppies - weaning

I never  give my pups food  til they are 2 weeks old. One week is to young I  
 
think.
SallyHH


**************Get trade  secrets for  amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL   Food.        
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------------------------------

Msg:   #3 in digest
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2008 17:52:11 -0700 (Pacific Daylight   Time)
From: Kate Syssoloff <rockannand@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:   Feeding puppies - weaning

Content-Type:  Text/Plain;
charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:  quoted-printable
LuAnn, I  don't feed puppies until they have molars  at 21 days of age.   Th=
en,
I soak Eagle Large Breed Puppy  kibble in hot water and let it  swell.  Whe=
n
it's has  cooled, I add canned puppy and a little dry  milk powder for  pupp=
ies
and serve.  They have a tummy that is  still  immature, and it takes a coup=
le
of tries to get them going, but   within 4 days, they are right in there an=
d
their stools are   normal.=0D
=0D
Hamburger purchased from a food store may be   contaminated, that's why we
need to cook it to 170F.  If you want  to  feed raw.... grinding up a steak
yourself would be better.   Just wash  it before putting it in the  grinder.=
=0D
=0D
However, I prefer to  provide babies with a  balanced puppy food that is
nutritional and   proven.=0D
=0D
Best,=0D
Kate=0D
=EF=BB=BF =EF=BB=BF  =EF=BB=BF  =0D
Kate Syssoloff - Rockannand GSD 1-604-826-9619=0D
In  Beautiful  British Columbia, Canada=0D
SEL INTEGRA~SEL PATENT~FV  SOLEIL~BIM THE  TANGO~EKO-LAN'S FORTUNE=0D
http://www.rockannand.com  (under   construction)=0D
http://members.shaw.ca/rockannand=0D
=0D
-------Original   Message-------=0D
=0D
From: LuAnn Kennedy=0D
Date: 6/5/2008  3:02:09  PM=0D
To: showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx=0D
Subject: [ SHOWGSD-L  ] Feeding  puppies - weaning=0D
=0D
A friend of mine has a litter  of 11 GSD  puppies.  She was told by another
breeder to start  feeding some raw  hamburger at around 8 days.  I don't  li=
ke
feeding raw to puppies  that young.  I don't want to  overstep the other
breeder's toes,  but..............=0D
Her  puppies have the runs now and I told her to  discontinue the  hamburger=
=2E=0D
=0D
I would like to get others  opinions on  what they feed puppies that young =
or
when they start  weaning and  what they feed?=0D
=0D
Thanks so   much.=0D
=0D
LuAnn=0D
=0D
=0D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=0D
POST   is Copyrighted 2007.  All material remains the property of the   origi=
nal
author and of GSD Communication, Inc. NO REPRODUCTIONS  or  FORWARDS of any
kind are permitted without prior permission of the  original  author  AND o=
f
the Showgsd-l Management. ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED.=0D
=0D
ALL PERSONS ARE ON NOTICE THAT THE  FORWARDING,  REPRODUCTION OR USE IN ANY
MANNER OF ANY MATERIAL WHICH  APPEARS ON  SHOWGSD-L WITHOUT THE EXPRESS
PERMISSION OF ALL PARTIES TO  THE POST AND THE  LIST MANAGEMENT IS EXPRESSL=
Y
FORBIDDEN, AND IS  A VIOLATION OF LAW.  VIOLATORS OF THIS PROHIBITION WILL  =
BE
PROSECUTED.=0D
=0D
For  assistance, please contact the  List Management at  admin@xxxxxxxxxxxx=0D
=0D
VISIT OUR WEBSITE  -   www.showgsd.org=0D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=0D
=20






------------------------------

Msg:   #4 in digest
From: Penny & Bill  <Ketchy@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:  Re: feeding puppies
Date: Thu,  5 Jun 2008 20:58:09  -0400

My puppies are usually willing to be  spoon fed  before they're two  
weeks old.  We mix raw  hamburger, baby food  (oatmeal with bananas is a  
perennial  favorite) and warmed raw goat's  milk.  We do the spoon   
feeding thing for a week to 10 days and  then they want to eat out of  a  
dish--those pups love that  mixture.  The hard part is  keeping the dam  
away from the  gruel--Jeddie wanted to eat it  herself last   year!
Penny

------------------------------

Msg: #5 in   digest
From: "Maureen" <murk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:  Feeding  puppies - weaning
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 20:29:09  -0500

I strat them  about 3 weeks with a gruel of goats milk,  yogurt, baby 
oatmeal, 
and baby  lamb......thin at first and then  thicken it. Mo
>I never give my pups  food til they are 2 weeks  old. One week is to young I
>  think.
>        SallyHH


------------------------------

Msg: #6 in   digest
From: "Maureen" <murk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:  feeding  puppies
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 20:30:37  -0500

Penny,
I make  my goats milk plus in a shallow bowl and  lay 2 pups at a time 
across my  lap..........they go nuts!  Mo

>   My puppies are usually  willing to be spoon  fed before they're two
> weeks old.  We mix raw  hamburger,  baby food (oatmeal with bananas is a
> perennial favorite)  and  warmed raw goat's milk.  We do the spoon
> feeding thing for  a  week to 10 days and then they want to eat out of a
> dish--those  pups  love that mixture.  The hard part is keeping the dam
>  away from  the gruel--Jeddie wanted to eat it herself last year!
>  Penny
>  


------------------------------

Msg: #7  in digest
From:  "Maureen" <murk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:  Someone is having a  Birthday
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 20:44:01  -0500

My sweet daughter, Amy  Murkland will be 38  tomorrow.....those wishing to 
send her B Day    grettings   ........shutter45@xxxxxxxxxx She is going to 
KILL 
me  for  this! Mo

------------------------------

Msg: #8 in   digest
From: "Arcturus" <Arcturus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ]  Re:  Feeding puppies - weaning now worming
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008  22:03:43  -0400

Wow!  I guess I'm really late with my  pups.  I don't  offer them food until 
3 
weeks and then its  Triumph canned Beef with  Chicken.  They usually gobble 
it 
right  down. By the end of the week I'm  adding soften dry food to it. Now,  
they always have access to Mom's dry food  and some will start  mouthing it 
at 3 
weeks.  Before 3 weeks the Mom's  have so much  milk I doubt the puppies 
would 
eat anything anyway.
On  to  worming...does anyone treat for coccidia or giardia as a matter of   
course?   We do, at 6 weeks.  Where I live there are so  many  chicken houses 
that both are literally in the air.  Penn  State Unv. did a  study on both as 
it 
effects the chicken industry  and they were amazed to find  it ( as well as 
e-coli) in rain  water.   Sue   T

------------------------------

Msg: #9 in digest
Date:  Thu,  5 Jun 2008 19:04:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ams   <shutter45@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Someone is having a   Birthday

got that right. turn about is fair play too      ams

Maureen wrote: 
> My sweet daughter, Amy  Murkland will  be 38 tomorrow.....those wishing to 
send her B Day     grettings    ........shutter45@xxxxxxxxxx She is going to 
KILL  me  for this! Mo
>   
============================================================================
>   POST is Copyrighted 2007.  All material remains the property of the   
original author and of GSD Communication, Inc. NO REPRODUCTIONS or  FORWARDS 
of  any 
kind are permitted without prior permission of the  original author   AND of 
the Showgsd-l Management. ALL RIGHTS  RESERVED. 
> ALL PERSONS ARE  ON NOTICE THAT THE FORWARDING,  REPRODUCTION OR USE IN ANY 
MANNER OF ANY  MATERIAL WHICH APPEARS ON  SHOWGSD-L WITHOUT THE EXPRESS 
PERMISSION OF ALL  PARTIES TO THE POST  AND THE LIST MANAGEMENT IS EXPRESSLY 
FORBIDDEN, AND IS A  VIOLATION  OF LAW. VIOLATORS OF THIS PROHIBITION WILL BE 
PROSECUTED. 
>   For assistance, please contact the List Management at   admin@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> VISIT OUR WEBSITE - www.showgsd.org
>   
============================================================================


------------------------------

Msg:   #10 in digest
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 19:27:46 -0700 (PDT)
From:  Terry  Cochran <fairway97045@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ] Re:  Feeding puppies -  weaning now worming

I'm with you on this one.  What is the point of  feeding them earlier mom has 
the perfect food  for the babies .l If mom doesn't  have enough them goat 
milk 
is a  great supplement.
TC
Arcturus  <Arcturus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>  wrote: 
Wow! I guess I'm really  late with my pups. I don't offer them  food until 3 
weeks and then its Triumph  canned Beef with Chicken.  They usually gobble it 
right down. By the end of the  week I'm adding  soften dry food to it. Now, 
they 
always have access to Mom's  dry  food and some will start mouthing it at 3 
weeks. Before 3 weeks the  Mom's  have so much milk I doubt the puppies would 
eat 
anything  anyway.
On to  worming...does anyone treat for coccidia or giardia as  a matter of 
course? We  do, at 6 weeks. Where I live there are so  many chicken houses 
that 
both are  literally in the air. Penn State  Unv. did a study on both as it 
effects the  chicken industry and they  were amazed to find it ( as well as 
e-coli) 
in rain  water. Sue   T
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------------------------------

Msg:  #11  in digest
From: DOGSRLUV@xxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008  22:56:24  EDT
Subject: Re: ] Re: Feeding puppies - weaning now  worming


In  a message dated 6/5/2008 7:23:32 PM Pacific  Daylight Time,   
Arcturus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
On to   worming...does anyone  treat for coccidia or giardia as a matter of   
course?   We  do, at 6 weeks.  


I don't  generally.  If they get loose  stools after worming then I  do  .  I 
had a bitch years ago that  everyone of her pups had a ton  of  worms and 
once 
wormed they seemed   to pick up coci?  Those I treated automatically&  after 
the 
first   litter.

Deb



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------------------------------

Msg:   #12 in digest
From: Pinehillgsds@xxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008  22:56:24  EDT
Subject: Re: Feeding puppies - weaning

I  100%  agree.

Kathy, member GSDCA, DVGSDC
Celebrating  generations of Dual  Titled TC'd  Champions
visit  www.geocities.com/pinehillgsds   


In a message dated  6/5/2008 6:44:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight  Time,  
DOGSRLUV@xxxxxxx  writes:

I think  8 days is way  to  young.  




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------------------------------

End   of showgsd-l Digest V2   #1427
********************************






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------------------------------

End  of showgsd-l Digest V2  #1430
********************************






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ALL PERSONS ARE ON NOTICE THAT THE FORWARDING, REPRODUCTION OR USE IN ANY 
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PERMISSION OF ALL PARTIES TO THE POST AND THE LIST MANAGEMENT IS EXPRESSLY 
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