Jan, Not sure which tank & reels you are using, but it looks to me like you are not using enough chemicals (and/or during inversion, the top of the roll is not in chemicals while they flow back down). I used to have a lot of problems with that in my simple plastic tank (the common black plastic tank with the red lid, Made in Spain, and sold by Omega and many others), and just with 120 film (and even after going to 25 oz., rather than recommended 20 oz.). I now spin the tank with my wrist during inversion times (so as to vigorously mix up the chemicals -- easier done than explained) rather than truly inverting it and that seems to take care of it. BTW you only need to do that with the developer, for stop, fixer & hypo-clear, none of this matters. Hope this helps, Mike P.S. Nice photos Mike Bischof Phoenix, AZ The Photo Blog of my Indian Adventure: http://geocities.com/nbg90455/blog.html ; ________________________________ ________________________________ From: Jan Decher <Jan.Decher@xxxxxxx> Subject: [rollei_list] Re: TMax 100 Development - some Results Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 17:33:27 -0400 Hi Everyone, Here are two results from my TMax 100 development in 9.5 min in 1:1 D 76 at 20° C. http://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/2960314050/in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/2960315262/in/photostream/ Agitated the first full minute then 15 seconds out of every minute thereafter. Ca. 10 minutes in Ilford Rapid Fixer and 16 minute washing with Jobo Cascade. Dried after 1 minute Photo Flo 200 treatment. How important is the Kodak Hypo Clearing bath? So far I am pretty happy with the results, although I still prefer the results I got with Fuji Neopan 400. I noticed on the right side of both images a row of spottings. Its also evident in this picture from an earlier roll: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/2504229938/in/photostream/ Is this the dreaded roller reflection? If yes, what was the remedy this list agreed upon? Roller replacement by Harry Fleenor? Or get an FX ;-) Jan