[rollei_list] Re: rollei_list Digest V4 #253
- From: "John Wild" <JWild@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 18:16:43 +0100
Jan,
Not that I'm an expert but it does look like some sort of 'fluid' disruption to
the development along one edge. The same edge on different film types too
though. The marks on the prints are darker, which means that the negative could
have received less development time in these areas making the negative thinner.
Whether insufficient developer in the tank as Mike suggests or some
contamination has got onto the film edge (is it top or bottom of the tank?) to
prevent the developer starting as quickly. Do you pre-wet the film prior to
adding the developer, in which case how full is the pre-wet level? Whatever the
cause, it is on the same side of all the negatives where you have scanned the
frame edges, so there must be a common denominator, although the effect is of
differing intensity and size. Ferris 2 does look like air bells though.
A further thought - could it be pressure/distortion along that edge of the
negative prior to development (in camera - does the film get wound up straight
or does it wind up slightly to one side of the spool?) which has caused a
stress to the emulsion? Is it a plastic tank with 'little balls' in the reel -
one side could be sticking slightly causing stress when the film is wound in
or one has a little contamination/grease/oil on it.
In your photos prior to the images with the frame edge shown, your other B&W
pics do not show similar marks - have you changed your processing methods or
did the other negatives show similar marks but you just cut them out of the
scan?
Could the developed rolls have picked up contamination whilst drying, prior to
being cut up? Contamination by small liquid drops or even residual drying agent
could maybe effect the light transmissiveness of those parts of the negative
when scanned. Does it look as if the marks are actually within the emulsion or
on the surface (front or back)?
Also because of the newtons rings, if it's not on the negatives, is there some
contamination on the negative holder glass?
Sherlock Holmes may lend you his magnifying glass. ;-)
John
________________________________
From: rollei_list-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:rollei_list-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Mike Bischof
Sent: 22 October 2008 17:01
To: rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [rollei_list] Re: rollei_list Digest V4 #253
Jan,
Not sure which tank & reels you are using, but it looks to me like you are not
using enough chemicals (and/or during inversion, the top of the roll is not in
chemicals while they flow back down). I used to have a lot of problems with
that in my simple plastic tank (the common black plastic tank with the red lid,
Made in Spain, and sold by Omega and many others), and just with 120 film (and
even after going to 25 oz., rather than recommended 20 oz.). I now spin the
tank with my wrist during inversion times (so as to vigorously mix up the
chemicals -- easier done than explained) rather than truly inverting it and
that seems to take care of it. BTW you only need to do that with the developer,
for stop, fixer & hypo-clear, none of this matters.
Hope this helps,
Mike
P.S. Nice photos
________________________________
Mike Bischof
Phoenix, AZ
The Photo Blog of my Indian Adventure: http://geocities.com/nbg90455/blog.html
<http://geocities.com/nbg90455/blog.html>
________________________________
From: Jan Decher <Jan.Decher@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [rollei_list] Re: TMax 100 Development - some Results
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 17:33:27 -0400
Hi Everyone,
Here are two results from my TMax 100 development in 9.5 min in 1:1 D
76 at 20° C.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/2960314050/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/2960315262/in/photostream/
Agitated the first full minute then 15 seconds out of every minute
thereafter. Ca. 10 minutes in Ilford Rapid Fixer and 16 minute
washing with Jobo Cascade. Dried after 1 minute Photo Flo 200
treatment.
How important is the Kodak Hypo Clearing bath? So far I am pretty
happy with the results, although I still prefer the results I got
with Fuji Neopan 400.
I noticed on the right side of both images a row of spottings. Its
also evident in this picture from an earlier roll:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/2504229938/in/photostream/
Is this the dreaded roller reflection? If yes, what was the remedy
this list agreed upon? Roller replacement by Harry Fleenor? Or get
an FX ;-)
Jan
---
Rollei List
- Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe'
in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org
- Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with
'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org
- Online, searchable archives are available at
//www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list
Other related posts:
