[ratpack] Re: The new year
- From: John Christensen <johncgg@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: ratpack@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 06:38:00 -0600
Thanks guys. Cindy and I made Green Pork Chilie last night. It was Yummy!
Nate liked it too. I have this huge cast iron skillet that barely fits in
the oven. It's good exercise just moving it around. When we first met, Cindy
knew how to make Kool-aid, and macaroni and cheese in a box. That was it. I
had been cooking since I was 7. The first night I stayed at her apartment,
she and her room mate burned some frozen hash browns trying to make me
breakfast. I had to jump in and save the day. The family joke is not to let
Mom cook chicken. (to this day) She is getting better all the time though.
She has been on a Food Network recipe kick lately, and I have to work out
just to stay under 200. See attached.. Turn the oven down for the roasting
to about 325-350 or it might dry out. We just covered the big skillet. Don't
have a dutch oven. Mmmmmm!
I started to mess with the Rose photo in Photoshop, then decided not to try
to improve on nature.
---
John Christensen
Saint Charles, IL
On Fri, Jan 1, 2010 at 7:27 PM, Ray Buck <rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Congratulations on the anniversary. That's a wonderful thing to hear
> about. And the rose photo is, as usual for yer photos, absolutely
> stunning.
>
> Happy belated anniversary and nappy you here.
>
> RtR
>
>
>
> At 12:31 PM 1/1/2010, you wrote:
>
> Funny,
>
> I got the tripod out after getting 34 roses for Cindy. The 27th of Dec was
> 34 years together (exclusively... except for about 7 months during a move.
> Long story) It will be 30 years married in August. She counts the married
> number only. I count the longer of the 2.
>
> Anyway, I couldn't resist getting a few shots. Roses are just one if the
> coolest flowers. I think they are great.
>
> So, see attached tidbit.
>
> Happy New Year!
> JC
> ---
> John Christensen
> Saint Charles, IL
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 1, 2010 at 12:32 PM, <humminboid@xxxxxxxxxxx > wrote:
>
>
> Browsing the web for photo stuff, after a less-than pleasing session
> attempting photographing roses under our skylight, I came across this
> little gem. Applicable to all facets of the art, too. Verrrry Interesting!
> Enjoy!
>
>
>
> Rose Photography and Flower Photography
> Shooting Tips And Advice*
> For Those Shooting With Film
> By Bob Bauer
>
>
> Hey Film Shooters: I honestly recommend that you switch to digital when you
> can afford it. (My opinion is that it is better in most ways except this:
> archival storage of slides is remains a film advantage.)
> Rose and Flower Shooting Tips Equipment Issues (nerd stuff) Rose
> Photography Myths
> 1a) USE A TRIPOD!!! Oh, and by the way, use a tripod... UNLESS!...you are
> able to set the shutter speed at 1/125 second or higher AND the aperture at
> f/ll or above. You usually need the extra depth of focus that a slower
> shutter speed and a higher f/stop number can give you. Even if you have
> 'Nerves Of Steel', it is very difficult to hold your camera without shaking
> at a shutter speed below 1/125 second. Any camera shaking or vibration at
> all will seriously degrade your final images.
>
> 1b) USE A FILTER. when the light demands it. In the shade or on an overcast
> day use an 81B light balancing filter. Color balancing the light when at the
> shoot is the mark of those 'in the know'. Just Do It. (Note: you don't need
> the 81B filter if you are shooting with an electronic flash as a light
> source.)
>
> 2) USE GOOD FILM. It really really really pays off to use a good
> professional 100 ISO transparency (i.e. 'slide') film. Professional films
> are lower in contrast (a good thing in this case), and have a wider color
> range. Sure they cost a bit more, but only a bit and the results are worth
> it. There is a reason that transparency film has been the standard of the
> professional film world like.......forever! Don't fight it. This also allows
> you to put your pictures in slide pages and look at them easily instead of
> thumbing through pack after pack of 4x6 prints.
>
> 3) COMPOSE THE PICTURE. Don't just put the rose in the center of the frame,
> look at the overall composition inside of the viewfinder. Always look at the
> edges of the frame and compose within it. Get Artsy. Don't just put the
> flowerhead in the center of the frame. Remember that you yourself may be
> looking at the rose in the middle but your camera is seeing and recording
> all the space around it as well. Artists think about design using the 'Rule
> Of Thirds': this means that you mentally divide the screen up into thirds
> either vertically or horizontally or both and balance strong and weak
> elements in a ratio of 1/3 to 2/3. This simple technique is the key to good
> design.
>
> 4) VERICALITY. Hey... the camera can actually be turned 90 degrees once in
> a while. Quit shooting everything horizontally already. Half of the world is
> horizontal and half is vertical. Very, very little is square, (...but some
> is... The third half of the world is square...heh heh...). The mark of the
> rank amateur is shooting EVERYTHING horizontally.
>
> 5) WIND IS BAD. Wind is public enemy number one. Shoot in the morning,
> because there is usually less wind at this time. If wind levels are HIGH, it
> is pointless to try shooting anymore. Give it up. That said, if the wind
> level is LOW, you can usually get your shot by keeping your eye in the
> viewfinder and waiting for the moment the rose is still. It might take 5
> minutes or more, but it usually WILL happen. Be ready with your trigger
> finger and don't give up too soon.
>
> 6) SHOOT NOW NOT LATER. This cannot be emphasized enough! Keep an eye on
> your blooms. When they are just at the right stage, they will NOT wait for
> you. So go get the camera right NOW! I mean it! This is the real key to the
> best rose and flower photos. Have your camera by the door and ready to go. I
> know it's a hassle, but go have got to go back inside and get the camera
> right now when you see the bloom. I repeat again They Will NOT Wait For
> You!!!
>
> 7) LOOK BEFORE YOU SHOOT. Don't just point the camera and instantly fire
> away from wherever you happen to have randomly stopped in front of the
> bloom. Stop a second. Look around a bit, take a breath or two and think,
> move branches out of the way, prune off ugly stuff and deadhead old blooms
> and diseased leaves that might be in the picture. Move yourself around the
> flower or bush and look at it from all angles: High, Low and Side to Side.
> Personally, I find it more interesting not to snap a shot of just one bloom,
> but look to see all the stages of a bloom at once. I try to find a close
> grouping of blooms on the bush that show the bud, the partially opened and
> the fully opened bloom or even the older finished bloom. Getting all of
> these in one shot is the ideal for me.
>
> 8) LOOK FOR SHADODWS. Take a close look through the viewfinder for shadows
> and dark places on the rose bloom. Anything you see will be exaggerated.
> Dark areas will appear black. Make sure that the bloom is evenly lit. No
> mottled shadows. This looks horrible. If you see a shadow on the bloom, look
> to see if you can hold back the branch that is causing it when you shoot. A
> little attention here makes a huge difference.
>
> 9) NO FORMULAS PLEASE! Don't JUST shoot single blooms. Boring, Boring,
> Boring. Don't shoot all of your photos the same way. UGH! A slideshow of
> that will really put people in a coma! Shoot groups of blooms, shoot the
> whole plant get CREATIVE. Come at it from below or from the side. No Rules.
> Get it?
>
> 10) DEPTH OF FOCUS. Or Depth Of Field, is extremely important! Shoot at
> f/11 to f/16 or higher in order to get the depth of focus you need with a
> micro lens. I can't count the number of blurry edged rose pictures I have
> seen in my life. Get with the program!
>
> 11) 'BRACKETING' If you are unsure of yourself, bracket Your Exposures.
> Bracketing means to shoot the same shot at 1/2 f stop below and 1/2 f stop
> above your main exposure, resulting in 3 photos of the same subject at 3
> different exposures. Realize that even the most perfectly accurate meter
> isn't slways enough with film because variations in processing occur at most
> photo labs.
> (This is another one of the major advantages with shooting digital: you can
> see what you have right on the site, and if you have a camera with a
> histogram on the menu, you can see exactly if you have obtained all of the
> information available simply by looking at the histogram curve.)
>
> 12) THE "SUNNY 16" RULE. Says: ISO 100 film on a sunny day, shoot at f/16
> at 125th of a second. If using film, bracket your exposure at f/19 and f/22
> for light colored (white, yellow and light pink) roses, and f/13 and f/11
> for dark (red, purple, blue and black) roses. Especially blue ones (grin).
>
> 1) Try To Buy A FIXED FOCAL LENGTH CLOSE FOCUSING LENS. These lenses are
> correctly called 'Micro' lenses. Although some companies call them 'Macro'
> lenses. (Although Zoom Macro lens will work if that's all you have.)
>
> For 35 Millimeter Cameras: The 90 to 100mm focal length gives you a better
> working distance from the subject when you are shooting close ups, say, of
> the inside of the flower head. The reason: you need a bit of a working
> distance from your subject that you can't get as easily with a 50 or 60mm
> micro. Don't forget also to regularly use wide angle lenses when shooting in
> the garden, even close up.
>
> For Fixed Lens Point and Shoot Cameras:, You're kinda stuck with what
> you've got, so when buying one, make sure that it has close up capability
> and a good zoom range. Favor wide angle over telephoto capability, that is
> really what is needed in the garden. Close up is very important when
> shooting roses and other flowers.
>
> 2) FILTER INFORMATION: It will pay to invest in an 81B light balancing
> filter for shooting in the shade or on overcast days. It will really improve
> the look of your pictures.
>
> 3) GET A STURDY TRIPOD. Not a flimsy one. Bogen imports a good one
> (actually made by Manfrotto of Italy) for around $150 US. The lighter weight
> (Carbon Fiber) tripods, though expensive, will make it more likely that you
> will actually use your tripod. (Don't forget that if you are shooting in
> bright sunshine with the sun at your back, you don't necessarily need your
> tripod.)
>
> 4) REPEAT: GET GOOD FILM! Yes, I'm saying it again. Buying quality film
> cannot be emphasized enough. Bite the bullet and buy professional films Or
> whatever the lastest and greatest is. (I've lost touch myself.) Forget the
> rest. Don't EVER EVER NEVER EVER use the color saturation enhanced films
> like Fuji Velvia or Kodak VS. I would also recomment to stay with Film ISO
> speeds of around 100. The faster films will lead to decreased quality of
> your images. And stay away from the super cheapo off brand amateur films!
>
> 5) SCANNER STUFF FOR FILM SHOOTERS: If you want to put your photos on the
> web. Have them scanned by your local quick lab when they are processed! OR
> buy a film scanner. There are great affordable flatbed photo scanners make
> by Epson that will allow you to scan your 35mm slides at up to very high dpi
> non interpolated resolution. That is much more than decent quality at a
> reasonable price. Don't forget ebay to buy a used one either. These aren't
> the world's fines scans, but absolutely quite good enough.
>
> 6) My ROSE PHOTOGRAPHY NERD GEAR:
>
> At the close of my film days I used to use a Nikon F100 with a 105mm f/4
> Micro-Nikkor lens. Or a 60mm f/2.8 AF Micro Nikkor for extreme close ups. I
> usually metered manually with a Pentax digital spotmeter. I used a bogen
> 3221 tripod with a bogen ball head. I use a cable release for the camera. I
> shot mostly Kodak E100G or something similar film. Though color negative
> films scanned by your local Costco or drugstore will work just fine. I
> edited my film directly into the garbage can, keeping only the best
> exposures, and files images by name and category in my stock file in
> polyethylene slide pages. Labeling the photos by name as soon as possible is
> the only way you can keep up with the task. So just do it.
>
> 7) COMPUTER MANIPULATION INFO:
>
> I myself scan my 35mm slides with my Epson Perfection V700 Flatbed Photo
> Scanner, then bring them up in photoshop. First, I crop, then I clone out
> any specks or background defects, adjust the color balance, brightness and
> contrast using the curves tool, and lastly sharpen using the Unsharp Masking
> tool befire saving them as full sized Tiffs.
>
> For prints I save as full sized Tiff files at 240 dpi times the natural
> pixels of the image. I enlarge the size just prior to printing if I am going
> to increase the size of the file.
>
> For the web, I then change the color mode to sRGB and resize them at 72 dpi
> for web use. I next apply more Unsharp Masking for the final web file. All
> is then labeled and catalogued in my database program,Extensis Portfolio.
> Finally my hard drive is regularly backed up with mirroring (not backup!)
> software with an external hard drive.
>
> Time To Reach Into That Wallet/Purse and Pull Out The
> Plastic.........sigh..... 1a) "YOU CAN'T SHOOT ROSES IN THE DIRECT BRIGHT
> SUNLIGHT" Don't listen to this old saw. You can shoot in absolutely any
> light conditions, provided you know what you're doing. You can't be very
> creative if you shoot according to a formula.
>
> 1b) "YOU HAVE TO SHOOT IN THE 'SWEET LIGHT' OF EARLY MORNING OR LATE
> EVENING FOR GOOD PICTURES" Bunk!!! If anything this will shift the color of
> your rose photos to the yellow end of the spectrum. If there is light, you
> can shoot. Even in the dark, you can shoot with your electronic flash.
>
> 2) "FILM RESULTS IN HIGHER QUALITY PHOTOS THAN DIGITAL CAN GIVE:" Well,...
> actually it does.... IF You Are Shooting 8x10 Film. But you aren't and
> neither am I (Although I used to). Digital photography is here all the way
> and it is ubiquitous. It is better in almost every conceivable way. It is
> less expensive, more forgiving and because of that, less skill is needed to
> produce great images. It is true that it is a little expensive to get good
> quality results. You definitely have to invest in some gear in order to
> achieve quality. But you can now do with $1000 what it used to take $10,000
> to do a few short years ago (assuming you already have a computer). Digital
> photography allows you to see what you have on the spot and correct your
> mistakes. And there really isn't ANY visual effect that film can do that
> digital can't. That is the fact, Jack
>
> 3) "Fuji Velvia Kodak VS, or other super color-saturated film is great for
> roses, it's soooo colorful" Nope! Sorry. Don't believe it. These films are
> waaaay to contrasty and color inaccurate for our purposes. Velvia colors for
> example are the most inaccurate of any film made. (They did it this way on
> purpose to make all of the colors bright.) Use something else. Preferably a
> lower contrast professional color accurate film. When shooting flowers, you
> definitely will want to keep with the more natural look if what you are
> trying to do is represent accurate looking pictures of you favorite
> varieties to others.
>
> 4) "I'M JUST NOT A GOOD PHOTOGRAPHER, ART IS NOT MY THING" Baloney! Hey,
> it's a simple skill that can be learned by anybody. Just like riding a
> bicycle, get back on and try again. But don't forget to pay attention this
> time. I love this oh so true aphorism by Malcolm Gladwell: "Talent is the
> desire to practice". And for the record: ART is everybody's thing. We are
> all naturally creative, we just need to LEARN how to tap into this.
>
> 5) "I DON'T NEED TO KNOW ANYTHING FOR THIS, COME ON NOW, WITH MY AUTO
> CAMERA IT'S JUST POINT AND SHOOT THESE DAYS." You don't have to know a whole
> lot, but you HAVE GOT TO to pay attention to a few details. It really pays
> off to think before you shoot. The less you know the worse your
> photos....PERIOD.
>
> 6) "THERE IS SUCH A THING AS 'THE BEST PHOTOGRAPH' OR 'THE BEST
> PHOTOGRAPHER'" Don't Buy into this silly stuff. In order to be a good
> artist, you have got to leave the competitive spirit behind. You have to
> believe in your own taste. You can't match it to someone else's ideas. All
> that you've got as an artist is your own sense of what looks good. If you
> lose that taste, that edge of knowing what looks good, you become truly
> clueless. Don't try to copy others. You know what you like......SHOOT THAT!
> If you are pleased with the look of your photograph, you are developing
> taste and style. A taste and style of your own. Follow that innate sense of
> what looks good to you.
>
>
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> X-Attachment-Id: f_g3xczyow0
>
>
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