[pure-silver] Re: testing for complete fixation

  • From: Eric Nelson <emanmb@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 15:34:46 -0700 (PDT)

They say squeegee so I assume the print is wet. 
That's how I did it anyway..
Eric

Testing for Residual Silver After Fixing

If your photographic materials still contain silver
compounds after fixing, those compounds will
eventually break down or react with other chemicals
and cause image degradation. To test your prints or
films for adequate fixing, mix the following formula:

Kodak® Residual Silver Test Solution ST-1 
Distilled Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 ml
Sodium Sulfide (anhydrous) . . . . . . .   2 g
(This solution keeps for 3 months in a small
tightly-sealed bottle.) 

To use, dilute 1 part of the above stock solution with
9 parts distilled water.  This working solution keeps
less than a week. Squeegee your print or film and
place one drop of the working solution on a border
area. Let it sit for 3 minutes and blot with a clean
cloth or tissue. Any discoloration other than a
barely-visible cream tint indicates that your print or
film still contains silver halides that require
further fixing to remove. 

--- hksvk <hksvk@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Back in March, Richard Knoppow stated:
> 
> can test for completeness of fixing by using either
> a Sodium sulfide
> test or a solution of KRST diluted 1:9. The KRST
> must be
> used on well-washed prints or films because it fails
> where
> there is an excess of fixer.
> 
> Should the print be wet or dry or doesn't it matter?
> Is this true for both
> KRST and the sodium sulfide tests?
> 
> If the stain is any intensity ranging from barely
> perceptible to grossly
> yellow or orange, does this mean fixation was not
> complete, ie., there is
> residual silver halide there? If so, does the stain
> appear right away, or
> does it take a few minutes or longer?
> 
> Thanks, Richard.
> 
> Harry 
> 
> 
> 



       
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