[pure-silver] Re: how critical is E6 temp and...
- From: Claudio Bonavolta <claudio@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 10:02:47 +0100
----- Message d'origine -----
De: "RobC" <forum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 05:14:49 +0000
Sujet: [pure-silver] how critical is E6 temp and...
À: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>I've asked this elsewhere but thought I would ask here as well cos I know
>there are some colour experts among you all.
>
>Two questions: firstly, how critical is E6 processing temp as I'm going to try
>for the first time using a makeshift water bath setup. As far as I have
>gathered so far, providing the temp doesn't vary by more than 1 degree during
>the first dev bath, I should be OK.
>
>and secondly, is the full 6 bath E6 process worth doing as opposed to the
>shorter/quicker 3 bath E6 process and why?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rob
>
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According to the specs, 1st dev temp should be within +-0.2°C (+-0.3°F), color
dev should be within +-0.3°C (+-°0.5°F) but the change is progressive so it may
not be very visible if you're just outside the tolerances.
Agitation is pretty important too, so you must be consistent on this parameter
too.
It is feasible to achieve good results with a simple water bath but you need to
be very precise and consistent in your method.
Jobo processors are much cheaper today on the used market and they take care of
both temperature and agitation provided they are carefully calibrated.
Once this is done, the only parameters you must do carefully are:
- use fresh chemicals
- mix them correctly
- time the process carefully
That sounds much easier ...
The larger Jobo processors (CAP-2 and CPP-2) let you develop up to 8 135-36
rolls at a time using the 15xx tanks. The smaller CPE-2 up to 5.
The calibration is pretty straightforward as, what you need is to have the 38°C
(100.4°F) *inside* the tank during the whole process.
Do the calibration with water (same volume as the chemicals) inside the tank,
of course no need for film, and adjust until you obtain the desired temp.
Because of the water inertia, this may take some time, but then, you become
productive ...
There's a brief description on this page:
http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/cpa2.htm
Pretty basic ...
Regarding the chemicals, my first trial was with the disappeared Kodak
Hobby-Pac, a low volume 3-baths kit that required reusing the chemicals in
several batches.
The first batch came out fine but the next one was far from perfect.
I then tried the bigger Kodak 5-liters, 6-baths, one-shot kit and results were
really impressive, better than what the pro labs gave me in my area.
I stick to this kit since then and cross the fingers they won't have the bad
idea to discontinue it one day ...
I put a description with some infos regarding the use of this kit together with
the Jobo 15xx tanks:
http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/e6.htm
Once I open the kit, I split the 1st developer in small glass bottles of 200ml
which is the quantity required for a 1 liter final solution and to process 8
rolls 135-36.
This method improves the shelf life of the kit quite a lot, over a year.
The kit can develop 40 rolls 135-36.
The main E-6 page in Ko0dak's website is here:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/chemistry/filmE6main.jhtml?id=0.2.22.14.18.14.3&lc=en
The description of the kit I use is here:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/chemistry/e6Kit/e6Index.jhtml?id=0.2.22.14.18.14.3.28&lc=en
What I've heard regarding the other 3-baths kits is that they seem pretty ok.
But I have not tested them personally.
What I strongly suggest is that you use one-shot kits whatever the number of
baths.
Happy E-6ing ...
Claudio Bonavolta
http://www.bonavolta.ch
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