[pure-silver] Re: Selenium Toning Effects on Different Papers
- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2012 21:42:07 -0800
----- Original Message -----
From: "richard lahrson" <gtripspud@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 9:12 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Selenium Toning Effects on Different
Papers
Hi!
I've almost used up my supply of the old cold tone
Bergger
Prestige NB fiber
based graded paper that toned great in selenium to varying
degrees
of sepia. Since this is discontinued I've been using
Ilfobrome
Galerie FB grades
2 and 3, but the selenium toner has almost no comparable
effect even
at considerable
strength and time in the toner.
I'd like to find a graded cold tone paper that would
tone controllable in
selenium. Also,what's the best VC paper with selenium
toner?
Thanks!
Rich
Happy New Year Rich, I am stuck at home with a cold
plus tomorrow is my birthday.
Anyway, toners vary in their effects seemingly due to
the size of the silver particles. The finer the grain the
more _visible_ effect the toner has. I stress visible
because toner is still working and a test with peroxide
bleach will demonstrate it. As a rule finer grain printing
paper has a warmer original image color so try warm tone
papers to find one which will tone to a color you like.
Colder tone papers are mostly just intensified a little. If
you can't fine a suitable paper you might try other toners.
Polysulfide toner is easy to make (Kodak T-8) and has good
protective properties. Its also suitable for partial
toning. At least worth a try. One warning: polysulfide
tends to tone faster as it becomes diluted or exhausted and,
eventually, will leave a peach-colored stain which is
difficult to remove. To stop it at the end of toning treat
the print in a bath of stock strength Kodak Hypo Clearing
Agent, or 5% sodium sulfite. Actually, I find working
strength clearing agent does fine. (the Ilford stuff should
work as well). Sulfiding toners usually produce a sepia or
brown color, gold toners produce a blue or neutral color,
both are protective of the image. Generally, metallic
substitution toners like Iron-Blue or Copper are _less_
stable than the original silver. They may look beautiful but
don't extend the image life.
Something else occurs to me: for many years both Kodak
and Agfa made combination toners consisting of Selenium and
polysulfide. I tried a home-made version of this. What I
found is that it toned very fast for some reason. A couple
of minutes for complete toning where its components take
very much longer. I does have some sodium carbonate in it
which might make the difference and may be applicable to
Selenium toner. I've not tried this but it might be worth
making up an ounce or so and toning a scrap of paper.
I don't know if there is more in Tim Rudman's books on
toning but they are always worth consulting (and buying).
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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