[pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- From: Eric Nelson <emanmb@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 15:00:39 -0700 (PDT)
Maybe the techs at Kodak Professional are crazy but
they've told me several time that the "too long in the
fixing bath" issue we were all taught to fear, is a
myth insofar as film is concerned. i.e. that the
shadow/midtone whatever info would be lost/dissolved
or whatever if fixed for too long. They said they ran
tests and fixxing could be as long as 6 minutes in
Rapid Fix.
Given that, I standardized with 5 minutes for fixing
here, and; I NEVER fix more than 30 rolls per 1/2
gallon, I use HCA with agitation (Jobo) for 1-3
minutes. A minute is fine but longer won't hurt
anything, and I NEVER have purple negs whether it be
T-Max or otherwise.
Different films will have a different color. PlusX
looks blue for example, and a stack of processed Tri-x
sheet film waiting to be sleeved has that purple
color, yet individually the sheets look perfect.
Eric
--- Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Adrienne Moumin"
> <photowonder2010@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 1:42 PM
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
>
>
> > Belated & heartfelt thanks to all who took the
> time to
> > respond, it took me a bit to bounce back after all
> the
> > holiday weekend schlepping!
> >
> > From her comments, I think my friend is using both
> TMax
> > and Tri-X. I think after all of everyone's help
> she
> > shouldn't have the problem again!
> >
> > As is often the case in life as well as
> photography, an
> > answer begets another question in reference to
> this
> > excerpt:
> >
> > The old rule of thumb still holds, measure the
> clearing
> > time and fix for double this time. The old rule is
> also
> > that
> > the fixer should be discarded when clearing time
> doubles.
> > This might be OK for a two bath system but IMO is
> well
> > beyond the safe limit for a single bath.
> >
> > ---
> > Richard Knoppow
> > Los Angeles, CA, USA
> > dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> > How does one know when the clearing time should be
>
> > increased?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Adrienne Moumin
>
> By fixing out a scrap of film occasionally. Use a
> scrap
> of the film you originally tested with. Soak it in
> plain
> water for 2 or 3 minutes (longer is OK) and then fix
> it and
> watch to see when the cloudiness disappears. The
> reason for
> soaking in water is that the rate of fixing for wet
> film is
> different from dry film. Since the film is wet in
> practice
> it should be wet when testing.
>
> Its important to understand that clearing is not
> the same
> as fixing. The film can be visually clear and still
> have
> enough halide left in it to cause trouble later.
> However,
> the time it takes to clear is a good indication of
> the
> amount of silver dissolved in the hypo.
>
> Another test is to use a solution of Potassium
> Iodide.
> When this is added to fixer it combines with the
> silver to
> form Silver Iodide in the form of a cream colored
> cloud. The
> amount of dissolved silver which results in a cloud
> which is
> not immedediately dissipated depends on the dilution
> of the
> test solution. Kodak gives instructions for testing
> both
> single and double baths but I think there is an
> error in the
> instructions for the two bath system. I have not
> been able
> to substantiate this. In any case, its easy to see
> when film
> clears and its a more direct test.
>
> The degree of fixing can also be tested using a
> solution
> of either Sodium sulfide or Kodak Rapid Selenium
> Toner,
> diluted 1:9. The Sulfide test is standard. KRST
> can be
> used provided the film or paper is well washed
> because it
> fails if there is a lot of residual hypo.
> A drop or two of the test solution is placed on a
> clear
> area of the film or paper and allowed to stand for
> about 2
> minutes. It is then rinsed off. There should be no
> residual
> stain. Both Sulfide and Selenium will "tone" silver
> halide
> or incomplete fixer reaction products as readily as
> metallic
> silver so any stain will indicate the presence of
> silver in
> some form. Since this method tests the actual
> performance of
> the fixer it is probably the best test. When this
> test is
> used on paper I suggest using a scrap that has been
> processed along with the prints. The reason is that
> prints
> or film that has been tested should be washed
> following the
> test, which is, of course, not necessary when a
> scrap is
> used. Also, the stain, if it develops, is permanent.
> The
> film or paper can be re-fixed in fresh fixer but
> refixing
> will not remove the stain.
> This residual silver test should be run on a
> routine
> basis where permanence is of concern. Also, it will
> show up
> prints that will give problems when toned ahead of
> time.
>
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
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