My training in photo science at RIT and Gordon Hutchin's THE BOOK OF PYRO (as
well as other sources) all suggest that rocking the tray is insufficient to
properly agitate. A laminar layer of oxidized developing agent forms on the
surface of the emulsion which must be removed for fresh developing agent to get
into the emulsion. This is done in a tray by lifting the corners of the sheet
film randomly, raising the sheet up then putting it back into the solution. It
does NOT have to hang in the air for any extended period of time! It is
actually the sliding motion out and back in and the quick draining that brings
about the agitation!
Now, I shot over 100 Chattel Houses with 8X10 (3 sheets of each house) for my
book BARBADOS CHATTEL HOUSES and often batch processed up to 4 sheets or more
at a time. Always emulsion side up and always start with a 2 min presoak in
distilled water!!! The trick to not digging or scratching the emulsion is to
lift one corner of the batch, holding the sharp points against one finger, then
sliding the bottom sheet out from beneath it, then LAYING it down flat on top
and gently pushing it under the dev solution with your gloved fingers. I have
never had a scratch or finger print using this method with both PMK and Pyrocat
HD.
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Richard Lahrson
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2021 2:44 PM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Agitation in a Tray
I just experimented with a piece of 8x10
in a flat bottom plastic tray with rounded
corners to observe the wave pattern.
Some recommend using an 11x14 tray,
but I find l liter of Hydrocat HD just right
for an 8x10 tray.
Gently rocking the tray alternating left and
right for constant or at intervals does not
set up adverse waves. Too vigorous does.
I process one at time and admire those
who can do the 'shuffle' and maintain
temperature and avoid damage.
