[PCWorks] A procedure for removing CPU thermal pads or TIM, applying new thermal compound, thermal interface material, TIM (Was: CPU Heat Sink Mounting Broken)
- From: "Clint Hamilton-PCWorks Admin" <PCWorks@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: "PCWorks@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <pcworks@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 01:41:37 -0500
I should add to that below, that after doing that process the
CPU in question is a 1.8ghz overclocked to 2.4ghz, and even
before it's broken-in it never gets above 86°F. And again this
is using the stock Intel P4 HSF unit.
(I'm also changing the subject appropriately now so that anyone
searching for this kind of info can more easily find it at the
archives).
-Clint
----- Original Message -----
The same thing happened to me a few days ago when I was
swapping out a mobo for my Dad. Cheap plastic crap, they build
them that way to force you to buy more of them. For me it
broke when I was trying to remove the (stock Intel P4 Socket
478) HSF unit off the mobo. It's also an Asus. I was able to
scavenge it from the other mobo.
These can be called more than one thing; motherboard retention
bracket, motherboard retention mechanism, motherboard retainer
retention bracket, etc., etc., and also with 'CPU' or
'processor' in those words, or with 'motherboard' replaced with
'mainboard'. So they can be tough to find just on search
parameters alone.
Usually the stock ones are just a single piece of (cheap)
plastic that attaches to the mobo either with (what else)
plastic "push pins" or screws, screws which can be plastic or
metal. Aftermarket ones can be like that or with a backplate
which is usually metal, and sometimes both the backplate and
actual retention/retainer can be metal. You just have to be
sure you're getting one for a P4 Socket 478.
While the ones with the backplate are generally better for
durability/longevity and more evenly distribute the force
without board flexing, the backplate is solid and totally
covers up the back side of the CPU socket so no air flow can
get to it. Also if it's metal, there's a thin plastic
insulating sheet about 1" square THAT MUST BE USED
or else you'd short all the SMD's in the area. (Tiny caps,
resistors, etc, are on the back side of the mobo opposite
the CPU socket). It can be already stuck to the metal,
or separate. While I personally like all the air flow
possible, I have used these types before with no heat
problem, but it's even more imperative the TIM (thermal
interface material) preparation and application be PERFECT.
Yes, the HS MUST be totally cleaned of old TIM. If the
existing HSF unit is a stock Intel, that means a troublesome
thermal pad, which is usually saran-wrap-thin piece of aluminum
coated on BOTH sides with paraffin wax! Regardless of how
smooth a metal surface may feel, it is FULL of large pores
(stupid I know) into which the wax will melt. Even if it's
another kind of thermal pad, or just TIM alone, the pores get
filled with this old TIM (which is the purpose of the TIM to
provide a perfectly smooth non-porous mating surface). All of
this old TIM must be removed to insure the best thermal
transfer from CPU to HS. Do not use typical alcohol, denatured
alcohol is ok or xylene-based carburetor cleaner or other
xylene-based cleaner, also something called Goof-Off can be
used. You have to really scrub and scrub until both surfaces
are PERFECT, it may take a while.
Don't use a stiff paper towel because that can actually scratch
the surface of the HS which is actually soft! A cloth is ok,
don't bother with lint-free at this stage, but since you're
going to need one anyway then some kind of micro-fiber cloth
would be good. You'll also need a can of compressed air. Once
you're through scrubbing and the surfaces are pristine again,
you can wipe with the micro-fiber cloth. Be sure that anytime
you use compressed air you trigger it a few times onto your
hand to be sure it's TOTALLY FREE of moisture and residue
BEFORE you blast the HS and CPU surface. You'll of course need
to do that immediately prior to applying the new TIM. Remember
that it only takes one microscopic piece of lint or similar to
ruin a perfect installation. Also don't EVER touch the mating
surfaces with a hand or fingers once they've been cleaned.
There's also cleaning kits you can get from companies that sell
TIM, like Arctic Silver. Never use any oil-based cleaners,
that includes any petroleum distillate, do not use.
Applying the new TIM depends on which kind you get or have.
So I'd have to know that to go further.
What I do: I used the carburetor cleaner on the CPU and HS with
a soft paper towel being sure to often use clean areas of the
paper towel. Then I followed with some more cleaner using a
coffee filter. Once I was positive the HS surface was totally
clean, and lint free with the compressed air, I put a BB or so
size of the TIM and did the "tinting" process. This involves
taking something like a credit card (which I use, an old one I
keep for this), and WITH FORCE drag and rake the TIM across the
surface in EVERY POSSIBLE direction. Back and forth, both
ways, at about 5° increments, being sure to press down hard,
and being sure the card always has TIM on its leading
under-edge. What this does is forces the TIM into the pores,
pits, grooves and valleys (which is why the HS surface has to
be totally clean first). The TIM takes the place of a
flawlessly mirror-machined surface, it, this process, makes
the surface as microscopically flat as possible. Once you're
positive the TIM is in all the pores, wipe hard with a coffee
filter, again in every possible direction, actually trying to
REMOVE ALL of the TIM. What will be left is a "tint" of the
color of the TIM, hence the name "tinting", and it is this tint
due to the TIM in the pores and grooves.
Follow with the compressed air again, then immediately apply
the new TIM, again following the directions. Some require it
be *EVENLY* raked across the surface, some require another BB
or rice-grain-size of it to be put down and the compression of
the HS onto the CPU flattens it out. Some types also do NOT
use the tinting process.
Since I use Arctic Silver 5 (aka AS5), it has its own specific
instructions which is covered above, but only for application
and not preparation because preparation is the same. What
differs is the actual application of the TIM. If you don't
have any, then I'd get some of that. I wouldn't use that
garbage white silicone-based "thermal grease". Silicone is
actually a thermal insulator! ANY TIM is a thermal insulator
if too much is used. The goal of TIM is to give you a
flawlessly smooth as thin as possible mating surface.
Here is a PDF from Arctic Silver covering the application of
AS5 for example:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/md/intel_app_method_middle_dot_v1.1.pdf
It also covers preparation.
I'll see what I can find in the area of the bracket you need
and TIM, and email you off list.
-Clint
God Bless,
Clint Hamilton, Owner
www.OrpheusComputing.com
www.ComputersCustomBuilt.com
www.OrpheusComputing.com/cheap_reliable_web_hosting.html
www.OrpheusComputing.com/PCworks-computer-help-email-list.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom"
How might I go about trying to find the plastic bracket that
surrounds the processor and holds the heat sink on an Asus
P4P800 Deluxe motherboard?
I have a computer with an Asus P4P800 Deluxe motherboard.
Yesterday, Saturday, I heard a ping that kind of sounded like
a spring breaking. It didn't appear to have come from the
computer, but later I discovered that it had.
I was listening to a streaming oldies program on the
Internet. The computer continued streaming the station but
about an hour later when I tried using Internet Explorer the
computer shutdown. I turned it on but within a minute or two
it would shutdown. Sometimes it would almost finish booting
into Windows and other times it would shutdown before
finishing the POST. I thought, dust, so did a good cleaning
of fans and boards etc. but the problem still existed.
For a second time I disconnected all the cables and put the
computer where I could work on it. This bracket that holds
the heat sink has protrusions at each corner with holes in
them that holds springy pieces of metal tightly against the
heat sink. One of the protrusions had broken and allowed the
heat sink to not be tight against the heat sink. After
scratching my head for a while, I managed to come up with a
temporary repair but I'd like to replace the bracket if it's
possible to purchase one. The computer has been working fine
with my fix.
I guess I should eventually clean the heat sink and CPU and
apply new heat sink grease but that's something I can't do
myself. How good are the pads that can be put on a CPU to
transfer heat to the heat sink?
Hope some of this makes sense.
Thanks,
Tom
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- » [PCWorks] A procedure for removing CPU thermal pads or TIM, applying new thermal compound, thermal interface material, TIM (Was: CPU Heat Sink Mounting Broken) - Clint Hamilton-PCWorks Admin
